For more history see posting "coil pack won't start spark plugs in PT chrysler forum

We switched the coil pack and cam position sensor plugs and she cranked right up. We let her idle for a while and at one point she quit and threw out codes p0320 and 0340. But then she cranked right back up and throughout the day as we drove her the engine light finally went out, she relearned the alarm system after a while and then the radio stations and everything was working las night. She ran consistently awesome yeaterday, better than ever. We checked all her fluids and top off a couple and that was itl

This mornig I excitedly cranked her up and first of all engine lite was back on, then about 3 miles down she just quit. I pulled the same 320 and 340 codes and p1684 (battery disc. in last 50 starts). DUH. anyway she cranked right back up and drove beautifully all the way to work, (about 10 miles) Then this afternoon she did something totally diff. I had just goen a block and all of a sudden I'm giving her gas and she is going no where, like neutral. finally she goes I park and ck transmission fluid, oil, water, all fine. pull codesP1684, 0320, 0340, and a new one 1391 intermitten loss of CMO or CKP. The camshaft pos sensor and crankshaft pos sensor are both NEW. She did recrank and I made it home, but every time I stopped she didn't want to go, but once it kicked in it would do fine. Sorry this is so long, the only way I know to give a clear picture.Please don't leave me now? I'm right here if you have any questions.Thanks again and Bless you

 

It truly looks to me like you have either an electrical grounding problem, or poor contact in one of your electrical connectors. Given the codes P0320 and P0340 are both associated with your distributor, that is where I would start looking. Follow that set of wires into the loom and trace it back to any connectors along the way, but you'll likely find there are none until you get to the biggie at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Disconnect, inspect, clean, grease, and reconnect first. Then check the mountings on the PCM itself. Check the looms for wear wherever it comes close to metal, rubber, or other wire looms. Also follow ALL of the lines that come off of the negative terminal of your battery to where they attach. Bad grounds can cause radical electrical malfunctions.

With enough time you'll probably be able to find the problem. If not, perhaps a PCM is in order.

So you know, (as if you didn't already) These problems can be very elusive. I had one that was temperature sensitive, working fine when cold, but when warm the metal contact inside the plug would flex away and break the contact. I fixed it by increasing the bend in the contact so it would not pull away. A 2 minute fix with a dental pick, but it took me 6 months to find it.

 

Ok, with the caridlying (1)normal, he checked the voltage coming into the crank shaft pos sensor and the cam shaft pos sens, then again when it started acting up, (2)missing, and cut off completely, then again about 2 mins (3)later....The voltage coming in should be 5 volts for both...This is what it read in order

1 cam 8.9 crank 5.0
2 cam 2.7 crank 2.7 (car had quit)
3cam 8.9 crank 8.9

so there doesn't appear to be a break in the wire, voltage is varying up and down for some reason...

Any Clues?????

Are there any relays in this area that could cause this....if so where are they...


PPPllleeaaasseeeeee HELp I love my car but it has been up on the jacks mor thatn on the road since I got it 8 months ago....

Thank you MOnica[sm=boohoo.gif]

 

The voltage should vary between about .5 volts as a low and 5 volts as a high. There are notches cut in the camshaft and crankshaft where they rotate under the sensors. The voltage is supposed to go to the high range when a notch rotates under the sensor. That's how it figures out the position of what it's watching.

Your 2.7 volts may have occurred when a notch edge was under the sensor.

You really need an ocilloscope to observe the signal coming from the sensor when operating.