dies cools starts dies cools start etc. etc.
#1
11-13-2017, 01:02 PM
dies cools starts dies cools start etc. etc.
Working on a 99 sebring convertible with a 2.5 engine. The day I towed it in I changed out the crank sensor and went from a total no start to starting and dying after 3 or 4 miles or sitting and idling for 20 to 30 minutes after it cools it restarts and runs till it gets warmed up again.
I've so far changed out the crank sensor the distributor (new aftermarket) and today the pcm and had it flashed by the dealer (that charged me 30 bucks more than they quoted over the phone) and still dies cools starts. I have an obdII code reader and have never had codes. I've swapped out the asd relay also whats left?
I am wondering if the new crank sensor is defective? The old one was a bearcat to get out but I buffed the hole and the new one went right in. IDEAS ANYONE please and thank you thank you thank you.
I've so far changed out the crank sensor the distributor (new aftermarket) and today the pcm and had it flashed by the dealer (that charged me 30 bucks more than they quoted over the phone) and still dies cools starts. I have an obdII code reader and have never had codes. I've swapped out the asd relay also whats left?
I am wondering if the new crank sensor is defective? The old one was a bearcat to get out but I buffed the hole and the new one went right in. IDEAS ANYONE please and thank you thank you thank you.
#3
11-13-2017, 03:22 PM
No codes? Then make sure you've got good fuel flow. A gummed up fuel filter will allow you to run for a while. It's worth checking.
#4
11-13-2017, 06:00 PM
Not fuel I'm losing spark. I have another new crank sensor coming tomorrow but before I try it I'm going to pull the fuse block up and see if there's anything that looks like it may be the problem.
When I pulled out the pcm I found salvage yard markings on it too so I would bet it was a problem car before and the lady who owned it has passed on so there's no one to ask. Incidentally it has 104484 miles on it and no rust that's unusual for Iowa cars with calcium chloride and salt everywhere during the winter.
When I pulled out the pcm I found salvage yard markings on it too so I would bet it was a problem car before and the lady who owned it has passed on so there's no one to ask. Incidentally it has 104484 miles on it and no rust that's unusual for Iowa cars with calcium chloride and salt everywhere during the winter.
#6
11-13-2017, 08:31 PM
Not fuel I'm losing spark. I have another new crank sensor coming tomorrow but before I try it I'm going to pull the fuse block up and see if there's anything that looks like it may be the problem.
When I pulled out the pcm I found salvage yard markings on it too so I would bet it was a problem car before and the lady who owned it has passed on so there's no one to ask. Incidentally it has 104484 miles on it and no rust that's unusual for Iowa cars with calcium chloride and salt everywhere during the winter.
When I pulled out the pcm I found salvage yard markings on it too so I would bet it was a problem car before and the lady who owned it has passed on so there's no one to ask. Incidentally it has 104484 miles on it and no rust that's unusual for Iowa cars with calcium chloride and salt everywhere during the winter.
#7
11-14-2017, 07:38 AM
[QUOTE=CHRYSLER TECH;103032]no spark is usually the distributor assembly[/QUOTE
I've changed the crank sensor,distributor, and the pcm and Chrysler programed it. I've swapped out the asr and still warms up n dies cools and restarts. Today I'm going to try to super cool components with liquid difluorethane ( canned air) to see if I can make it restart faster. Next I'll pull the fuse/relay box and if that doesn't help I'll change from summer to winter air in the tires and roll it off at Chrysler.
I've changed the crank sensor,distributor, and the pcm and Chrysler programed it. I've swapped out the asr and still warms up n dies cools and restarts. Today I'm going to try to super cool components with liquid difluorethane ( canned air) to see if I can make it restart faster. Next I'll pull the fuse/relay box and if that doesn't help I'll change from summer to winter air in the tires and roll it off at Chrysler.
#8
11-14-2017, 09:16 AM
People on the forum here have reported bad luck with aftermarket distributors in that engine. Your post seems to be consistent with that experience.
#9
11-14-2017, 09:59 AM
Check GROUND connections to body and motor/trans. I have a 98 Avenger, same basic car with same motor. connections can look ok but have insulated from rust between the 3 parts of connection(bolt/wire end/main component base). They can cause all kinds of problems, Can't guarantee it is the cause for yours, but worth checking.
#10
11-14-2017, 06:32 PM
After wasting 3 cans of air on the distributor pcm and relays I took a section of fuel line for a weed eater and put it onto the nozzle tube and taped the end to a welding rod.
I waited until it cooled again and restarted and finally died again. I sprayed the new crank sensor until it was frosty white and immediately it fired back up. I repeated this 3 more times and it fired right back up every time. Tomorrow I'll be changing it out again
If any of you want to try cooling components this way remember to invert the spray can and limit how much of it you breathe in. Preferably do it outside. I can't take credit for the idea I learned it almost 50 years ago from a TV repair guy.
I waited until it cooled again and restarted and finally died again. I sprayed the new crank sensor until it was frosty white and immediately it fired back up. I repeated this 3 more times and it fired right back up every time. Tomorrow I'll be changing it out again
If any of you want to try cooling components this way remember to invert the spray can and limit how much of it you breathe in. Preferably do it outside. I can't take credit for the idea I learned it almost 50 years ago from a TV repair guy.