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Grand Voyager 1998 3.3 immobiliser problems!

  #1  
Old 01-23-2008, 12:16 PM
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Default Grand Voyager 1998 3.3 immobiliser problems!

Im new to this forum, and could really do with some help!

My immobiliser has stuck on AGAIN. The first time it happened i disconnected the battery and it fixed it. The second time i changed the batterys in the fob, all ok. Next time it happened it just wouldnt start, dials wouldnt move etc etc. Got it lifted to chrysler in bishops stortford ( in the UK ). When it got there it didn't start. When they tied to fix it the next day it started, and they have now had it for four days and it starts every time. There auto electrician has said because of the autobus system ( bit like ethernet network ) if there is a fault electrical it could effect the starting of the car. He has found that my heater matrix wiring is coroded and needs replacing as this is affecting the autobus system. Could my heater be leaking?Chrysler want 1000 pounds ( 1700 dollars ), yes one thousand quid!!!!. Now my problem only happens when i've been driving in HEAVY rain, and after reading comments on other websites i've decided that the water must be getting in an corroding something. Also my engine coolant doesnt last too long so im thinking that the water from the heater is leaking out? and coroding the wiring behind the matrix. What i want, and i've read it somewhere, is to completely disconnect the immobiliser, as this is what is faulty and going wrong. Chrysler wont do it, no auto electrician will do it, but i've read that if you start the car, and disconnect the immobioliser behind the glove box, then this will disconnect the immobiliser and then i will not have problems with the immobiliser, as its not connected any more. And chrysler say they have never had my problem before?????? Obviously they have never looked at this website. Has any one disconected there immobiliser? does it work, and how hard is it to repair my wiring connectors on the heater matrix. Please help! Im here in the uk.

I do have the workshop manual, so if i can find where the heater matrix is, the garage says its just a few connectors? Is it very hard to get to the matrix, i mean time consuming? Because that why I think they are charging so much 1000 pounds, (1700 dollars), and they charge 125 pounds an hour, ( 200 dollars ).
 
  #2  
Old 01-24-2008, 08:44 AM
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Default RE: Grand Voyager 1998 3.3 immobiliser problems!

ok the alarm issue u need a new printed circuit board due to the cluster guages not working.
as for the leak do u see coolant comming out under the pass side floor board or out the drain under the hood on the pass side it will be green,
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-2008, 09:41 AM
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Default RE: Grand Voyager 1998 3.3 immobiliser problems!

i think the leak is on the passenger side ( left hand side ) as mine is right hand drive, and leaks into the cabin. i think this is what the garage mean where the wiring is coroded and effecting the car bus system.
 
  #4  
Old 01-25-2008, 10:30 AM
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Default RE: Grand Voyager 1998 3.3 immobiliser problems!

next time u cant not start the van hit the top of the dash and when the guages come back to life start the van then replace the printed circuit board.
 
  #5  
Old 04-28-2010, 08:55 PM
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The problem with the immobilizer is the BLUE connector up behind the dashboard. When you hit the top of the dash this simply restores the connection. I had the same problem with my 1998 Grand Voyager. I found the main problem was with the design of the wiring, a sharp right angle straight from the back of the blue connector. If you take the dash of, straighten the wires and simply tape it up tight then the problem should be fixed.
 
  #6  
Old 01-19-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CHRYSLER TECH View Post
next time u cant not start the van hit the top of the dash and when the guages come back to life start the van then replace the printed circuit board.
Hello, I have this problem for about a year. When i hit the top of the dash and get the lights back on i can start the engine. problem is happening more often now and i have to hit the dash harder every time. How do i remove the dash to get at the circuit board that needs replacing? I am in Ireland so car is RHD.
thanks
 
  #7  
Old 01-19-2011, 04:01 PM
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Since You didnt tell us the year of your van, The procedures vary GREATLY between years.

RHD will be the same procedures as LHD only on the opposite side of the car.

I know that sounds Sarcastic....But it isnt meant to...The dash boards are designed as Mirror images of their counterparts, so the same panels, screws and clips will be present, in the same locations, Just reversed.
 
  #8  
Old 01-20-2011, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Djinn-n-Tonic View Post
Since You didnt tell us the year of your van, The procedures vary GREATLY between years.

RHD will be the same procedures as LHD only on the opposite side of the car.

I know that sounds Sarcastic....But it isnt meant to...The dash boards are designed as Mirror images of their counterparts, so the same panels, screws and clips will be present, in the same locations, Just reversed.
Dude, love the new SIG. You're my best friend
 
  #9  
Old 01-20-2011, 02:57 PM
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Thank you.....

You are actually Part of the inspiration for that.. A thread about EGR valve warranties , and "Doesnt Anyone PAY to have their cars fixed anymore"

See the thread in "OFF-TOPIC" titled "Have a heart"..You may be mildly amused.
 
  #10  
Old 01-20-2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Djinn-n-Tonic View Post
Thank you.....

You are actually Part of the inspiration for that.. A thread about EGR valve warranties , and "Doesnt Anyone PAY to have their cars fixed anymore"

See the thread in "OFF-TOPIC" titled "Have a heart"..You may be mildly amused.
Oh, I have a heart....but it doesn't work to it's full potential when i'm starving. Nutritional deficiency you know
 

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