Sudden NoCrank w/code B2101 on 2013 T&C @130Kmi
 

Sudden NoCrank, NoStart..only slight click near shifter. 3 FOBIKs (keys) recog'd, van battery charged, electronics working. Getting code B2101 (start signal low). Only issue that day: glitchy old FOBIK constantly locking van & tooting horn..retrieved new key to start & discovered NoCrank (MAYBE did something to WIM or TIPM??). Glitchy key hadn't created NoCrank issue before..just unexpected toots while driving or when nearby with key in pocket.

MAYBE related: Is Steady Red ETC light for 20secs at KeyOn normal? I've never seen ETC light while running..didn't notice it before at KeyOn since van always started right up with quick key turn (guess my great luck just ran out). COULD the ETC possibly trigger B2101 (start signal low) from WIM or TIPM as safety? ...EVEN w/no other codes (only new B2101)

History:
I'm DIY techie-geek..MANY engine, electronics & accessory repairs.
I've done a TON of reading & diagnosing last 3 days...some helpful ideas...LOTS of conflicting info & pointless, unintelligible AI videos.
Have mid-range scanner w/live data, memory & reports
3 mos ago replaced radiator for squirting leak on battery-side plastic..running fine since w/no issues or CEL. (No sign in TIPM..suprisingly 'new' inside when inspected below)
Previous Code B2232B (Vehicle Configuration Mismatch) after setting a few other things with AlfoOBD w/OUT any starting/running issues...just hadn't gotten to resolving it.
Phoenix summer heat...Started/Ran fine in 118F previous day..no crank happened early next morning @90F after using both DS doors & issue with glitchy old key constantly relocking van.
Maybe some slightly rough idle for a while..just occas light 'stumble'...wasn't too concerning...no CEL or codes.
Put new battery in FOBIKs (I tried all 3)
Scanner shows keys recogn'd w/ good signal for accy, run & start.
Tried NEW 12V Battery & cleaned cable connectors (tho old battery load tested OK)
Car battery removed & swapped multiple times..no battery for 12hrs overnight..cables held together to drain capacitors...so multiple system resets.
Key left in run position for 30 min w/connected battery charger (supposed to override some kind of lockout)
Sadly, no Remote Start on Van..worked for some folks when key didn't
Inspected wiring OK in DS Sliding door
Inspected wiring OK in DS door.
Checked & cleaned engine compartment GNDS I could find (2 on DS wheel well, 1 on top of trans, 1 near AirFilterBox)
Brake switch works (brake lights illum & scanner shows switch working).
NoCrank in park or neutral..scanner shows correct position. One slight click near shifter when turning key to start (won't click again until cycling brake pedal).
Recalibrated accel pedal (could see output on scanner)...just in case it was related to ETC light at KeyOn
TIPM removed, disassembled & cleaned inside. Only minor powdery residue on 3 large pins top board, PCBs & pins looked & smelled OK ('like new', no sign of radiator leak inside). Cleaned all pins & reassembled. Cleaned & tested all fuses good. Moved relays around.
Didn't get far with WIM-TIPM test..Couldn't check signal @pin 30 on C7, car seems dead with C7 disconnected. Can't reach wire or pin when connected (Battery impedes TIPM being pulled out far enough).


SO, I'm wondering what to chase next????

Local Dealers & Auto Electronics shops would have to order WIM or TIPM anyway...AND I like to know details about issues in my 'roadtrip' vehicle so I have a clue & a plan when traveling.

I typ don't just start replacing parts w/out more info..but always willing to start with most likely, cheapest parts.

MUCH Disassembly of Dash needed to get at $$$ WIM (YT video for less disassembly, but have BAD experiences w/ bending-twisting-breaking plastics brittle from AZ heat)

Can I 'force high' pin 30 @C7 on TIPM (start signal) w/out causing other damage? ..JUST to move van out of friend's driveway (Tech advised similar to resolve unrelated 02 Caravan ECU problem..work miracles)

ANY other ideas welcome.

do the key fob work lock and unlock the doors? in your scanner can you see ign switch status like key on or off status?

Thanks for helping. Yes, as mentioned above, FOBIK unlocks van, all electronics come on when key in Run position. Scanner sees key cycle properly thru Off-Accy-Run-Start..Shift lever cycle thru Park & Neutral..Brake Switch engaging-disengaging.

I just got stumped at testing WIM...car was dead (no lights or electronics) with C7 removed from TIPM..and can't reach pin 30 with C7 inserted, TIPM in place & battery reinstalled...even clipping some wire ties holding TIPM PWR cable & cable bundle going around back of battery..just couldn't pull it out far enough.

B2101 Diagnostics found here:
https://charm.li/Chrysler/2013/Town%...0Charts/B2101/)

Pulled TIPM again while looking again for shorts. I loosened harness enough now to get it out & on top of battery with all connectors attached EXCEPT the lrg Red PWR cable..so no way to power it without placing back into bracket. I'll make another attempt at freeing Red PWR cable tomorrow. BUT, I tried again disconnecting C7 to test pin 30 (pnk/wh wire), put TIPM back into place & reconnected lrg Red PWR cable...van then seems dead...FOBIKs don't work, no lights inside..red security light flashes a few times (all kind of expect with nothing coming from WIM).

So any clues on how to perform the WIM test mentioned above would be MUCH appreciated. Instructions seem incomplete.

You cant test the WIN with out being able to get into that module if your scanner can not talk to it there is nothing you can do.
AS far as the test disconnect the C7 connector put battery back to power and turn ign switch on is there 10v or more on the pin 30? if yes the tipm is at fault
if no disconnect the c7 then win module pin 3 use ohm meter with both disconnected should be less then 10k ohms vary little resistance straight wire

BIG thanks for the help.

I'm new to this TIPM & WIN stuff...tons of reading & YT videos...lots of posts suggest they're not very robust or forgiving. Previously had 02 Grand Caravan for 15yrs of roadtrips all around N. America & successfully resolved many electronic & ECU issues with lots of reading, videos & asking questions...even forced hi or low a few signals wires at ECU (suggested on forum by Dodge Tech) to finish a long trip once. So I REALLY want to learn more here to be better prepared with T&C on long road trips..

You provide an excellent summary of the Service Manual diagnostics I've been fallowing @ Charm.li. I've tried it MANY times. The head-scratcher is I can't even complete the first few steps.

What I'm experiencing is that vehicle won't WAKE when I reattach battery with only C7 disconnected (Pwr to TIPM, M27 front blade has 12.6V, fuse good)..no lights, electronics or response to FOBIK..van just acts dead..turning FOBIK in IgnSwitch does nothing to change this. In this state, there's NO voltage on C7 pin 30 and its not shorted to Gnd. Everything works again with C7 reconnected..but NoCrank and continues to throw B2101 code.

1. Is van not waking with C7 disconnected & nothing on C7 pin30 telling me something definitive???? Service Manual seems to say nothing about this condition.

2. My TOPDON AD500 scanner can see FOBIK authorized & position Off-Accy-Run-Start. Seems like THAT is from the WIN, ya? There's lots of other live data..how I verified shifter position, brake switch & accel pedal signal. But I don't notice anything titled "Run-Start Signal" in section where I see Key position..could it be called something else???

3. I also have AlfaOBD w/BT used to enable/disable/set many things many months ago. I know it shows live data...any use here???

Again I GENUINELY appreciate patience and help as I learn WHILE resolving these kind of issues, so I'm better prepared on long roadtrips far from home.

"What I'm experiencing is that vehicle won't WAKE when I reattach battery with only C7 disconnected (Pwr to TIPM, M27 front blade has 12.6V, fuse good)..no lights, electronics or response to FOBIK..van just acts dead..turning FOBIK in IgnSwitch does nothing to change this. In this state, there's NO voltage on C7 pin 30 and its not shorted to Gnd. Everything works again with C7 reconnected..but NoCrank and continues to throw B2101 code."
lets break this down. when you have C7 disconnected from the tipm nothing works right? thats because the C7 has several can commutation lines and INC lines that you have disconnected so nothing will work on the network because you have it disconnected.
You need to perform the test that i have shortened disconnect the C7 connector put battery back to power and turn ign switch on is there 10v or more on the pin 30? if yes the tipm is at fault
if no disconnect the c7 then win module pin 3 use ohm meter with both disconnected should be less then 10k ohms vary little resistance straight wire.
From there let me know the 2 results you get for doing that then we can move on. nothing else currently matters unless the 2 items i listed about have an answer to what the test says.

Lookout for KARR
 

Soooo...turns out my ENTIRE mess was caused by remnants of KARR Security/Disable System tucked way up in dash (seemingly common by Dealers on Lease and Credit Risk vehicles, that previous owner knew nothing about). It was only discovered upon tearing apart entire dash to get at WIN (annoying design). Wad of melted & cut wires and gooey elec tape...relay cut into start-signal wire among tentacles of other wires, connectors & splices...had to do picture search to learn what it might be. It likely explains the weirdness of continuity & no short to gnd from connector-connector at KeyOff & 'floating' (no signal or short) when KeyOn..not really covered in diagnostics. I've never experienced a relay failing that way...somehow changing from NO to NC w/out rewiring ...perhaps an issue with melted wire mess...which, as mentioned in first post, coincidentally happened after driving & parking in 118F Phoenix temp previous day. It was a sticky nightmare removing it all from the vehicle..soldering some harness wires back together..got expected signals from diagnostics...Van started right up & runs fine. 7 frustrating days in the Phx summer heat at a friend's driveway solving this Dealer created mess. ARG!

BIG thanks for assistance here. THIS was a head-scratcher. But glad I now know to lookout for KARR in the future.

Now, if I JUST could figure out where these 3 leftover screws go. ;-)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...fd0aa8c3dc.jpg
KARR Melted wire mess
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...24ce5594fd.jpg
KARR remnants removed