Hey guys, my name is Deric and as an admin and moderator on a really popular Kawasaki site and with nearly 20,000 posts, I find myself on the other end of the forum situation asking for help. I am in need of some assistance from the experts in all things Chrysler. My mom got T-Boned last month by a guy and she just got her van replaced. She went with a 2003 Chrysler Voyager. I was confused by the fact that I thought Chrysler made the Town and country and Dodge made the Grand voyager, but alas I am learning that some changes were made in the companies. Anyhoo, sorry if I am combining an intro and a question, feel free to make me separate the two.

Her van is experiencing the well known rear sliding door not locking with the key fob. It seems to be only the drivers side slider that is not locking. I read from a search on Google that sometimes the contacts can get dirty and need a good cleaning. She is 3 hours from my house and I haven't seen the van yet, but she may be coming up this weekend and I want to see if I can get it figured out. Any thoughts from you guys and gals would be greatly appreciated.

Deric (Deej) Kettel.

 

Chrysler dodge and jeep are the same company
Chrysler is the flag ship so the vans will have more features then a dodge van but the same van never the less.
Like a Lexus is a high end Toyota
Acura high end Honda

As for the door issue the older vans had the contacts not the RS van more then likely the door lock actuator is bad.

 

Ok thanks, so the actuator is in each door? Any idea what a new one will run me?

 

check your dealer or local parts store for a price

 

Ok I'll look at it. Thanks.

 

Oh and PS I do own a 99 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 with the diesel. Love the truck. Have had it for 10+ years now, and its been flawless.

 

Chrysler is the flag ship so the vans will have more features then a dodge van but the same van never the less.

 

Update: I took apart the side panel and got the actuator out. to remove it it was a little different then the YouTube video where you take out the single torx screw out, I had to remove the latching assembly held on by the 3 torx screws. anyway I got out the whole assembly and tested the actuator and it wants to try but is under-powered. I also discovered that both slider doors were not locking or unlocking with the actuators. So I took the other side apart and ordered new units. They will be here early on Wednesday morning. I appreciate the help on here and I'll let you know how it goes.

 

They were $70.00 each, not sure if that was a good price but my local parts store could get them in in 2 days. plus I have a charge account there so there's that.

 

Another update: Since not just knowing the problem and being able to fix it is not good enough for me as I always want to know what the problem is specifically, I decided to do some bench testing on one of the units. Here are three Pictures that show the complete actuator, then without the arm and then opened up. Then a video of the source of the problem. what I have discovered with at least my situation is that the small motor that looks exactly like the ones we all played with as a kid, is that its just too tired to work at all, in fact even without an external load on it, the motor won't run even to power itself for more than 15 seconds before completely stopping.