I have a 07 Sebring Limited w/the 3.5. I'm changing the timing belt right now as it has 108k on the clock. I noticed in Chrysler's service manual and the Haynes book that a LOT of assumptions are made about what people know when explaining how to do things. I find the Chrysler manual and the Haynes sorely lacking.

 

mmmm what info are u looking for?

 

That's typical of shop manuals. They really should tell you how do do stuff that is not inherently obvious. Additionally, they typically will explain something once and only once. So you will need to thumb through the book regularly to find how to do something that has been explained elsewhere. Most of the time they'll say something like "see chapter x" but sometimes they just let you figure it out.
Factory shop manuals are written by people who have never performed and probably will never actually perform the steps they tell you to perform. Some of the stuff they tell you to do can't actually be done.

 

Cam shaft alignment during timing belt install.
The Factory Service manual and the newly published Haynes do not address the FACT that the cam sprockets WILL MOVE when you install the belt tensioner. I have tried clocking the timing marks on the cams X.Y. & Z. When installing the tensioner they move. I bought a tool to align (read that immobilize) the cams so they couldn't move. Apparently there are two 3.5 engine out there. One for a LH platform and one for a JS platform. I do not know what the differences are, they may be FWD, RWD. or AWD. The engine blocks may be configured differently, they may take different transmissions; FINE. Why to they have to have cams that are different? The LH vehicle cams have 2 tapped holes in the end and a hole for an alignment tool. The JS does not. You need a different tool to "align" the JS cams. No one sells one specific for this cam. You can buy it for the LS motors but you're screwed for the JS. I spent 16 hour trying to keep the cams aligned when installing the tensioner. I have the factory service manual, The new Haynes on line ver. of the Sebring 07 and up book, the paper book isn't in print yet. No help. the Haynes has you loosening the rocker arms! Just about a complete engine tear down! Youtube shows everyone happily installing the timing chain with out a problem or special tools.

 

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Chrysler/Mitsubishi machined the timing mark on the firewall side of the engine cover incorrectly. The correct place is 1/2 tooth clockwise from the existing mark. on my car the closest you can get is the belt will be 1/2 tooth off on the radiator side of the existing mark on the front cover of the engine. The BEST way to fix this is BEFORE you remove the old belt rotate the engine(by hand) until the timing mark on the crank shaft indicate TDC. Check the factory marks on the engine and timing sprockets. If the don't line up get a file, dremel tool, or a vibrating engraver and mark your own mark corresponding to the mark on the cam that doesn't line up with the factory mark. Make it permanent. Ther are no TSBs on this that I can find. removing the rocker arms makes the job way easier and isn't hard at all. Install new seals o the front of the cams, pay attention to where the seals are in the bore; install the new ones just like the old ones were, or install the seals flush with the end surface of the head where the seal goes into it's bore. Here's the really tricky part: The Chrysler book will tell you to use a special tool to slide the end of the cam though the bore inferring that during head installation the cam will fit through the engine coverand the head will set down on the engine block wheile the cam is in it's home, no it won't. Chrysler says when removing the head you have to retract the cam through the cam thrust plate bore at the other end of the head (that's true) so when you install the head you have to retract the cam then as well, ok. Now you have the head in place, you have to torque it down before the cam will slide back through the seal and in to it's home, well you can't use the special, sexy tool they tell you to use on the end of the cam because it won't go through the engine cover on the front of the engine. THIS inferrs Chrysler has the cover off the front of the engine when they do this. NO where did I see instructons to pull the engine for this job BUT at the end of the day that may well be the BEST way to proceed. It's easier to get to everything and to install the heads with the engine out. Trust me.