They are a piece of cake to do compared to newer cars of today! Even with a/c I would do a tb change in no more than 2 hours time! Take the spark plugs out when you do the job, without latent compression in some of the cylinders it won't rock the cam as easily it does when the belt is removed. The Dist. body has a flat front, it should be facing forward to the radiator, if cranked off to either direction the intermediate shaft that drives the dist. is NOT aligned properly. There is also 2 marks on the flex plate, one is for 10*(or whatever) timing and another for TDC

 

yep i did that procedure when i changed the belt. but i will double check it in the next day or so and let you know. i will take a picture the best i can of the before and after setting. thanks bp.

 

Good hunting, as I said this is all from distant memory for me. But there are things one just never forgets(just like riding a bike)..LOL! Will watch for updates as I turned off notifications for threads. Does sound like you have acquired a "diamond in the rough", that with a little polishing would really sparkle!
I would even forgive your first part user name to know a geographic area you are at!

 

muskegon mi. i use corvairbob because i started in old cars with a 65 corvair convertible and i still have that one. this is my 3rd lebaron. i had a 87 vert pace car turbo but it stank so bad i had to get rid of it. then i got a 95 that was showroom new but it had some issue that none of the group could help me with, it had a code for lean burn and i changed all the stuff but the ecu and finally gave up and sold it. that car had 40k one it and i got it from a dealer. my guess is the first owner had it in the shop more that the road and finally traded it in. the dealer told me they would not work on it where i got it from so something was going on. then i got this last fall from a guy at work and he said he never drove it anymore so he just wanted to sell it and get something he might use more. it very well could have had this issue from him and that may be why it has so low miles on it. anyway i'm not going to toss a ton of money into it it show on the traveler to be getting 25 mpg so as long as it is not stalling at corners i will putter trying to figure it out. one thing at a time. thanks bp.

 

I started out at 13 yrs. old working on VW with my father in family business and then when we closed worked for a few other "Independents" and 3 DEALERSHIPS. I remember very well the '59 and up vw's I started out working on and we went right on up thru the early Golf models(post Rabbits), we specialized with the VW cars, but did do other makes.
But the "other love" my Dad and I both had was for MOPAR's! Sounds like we have "similar" car backgrounds. And nice to hear that you are in a relatively close area to me and not an ocean apart and on a different continent or Isle, where descriptions of thing could be easily misunderstood!

 

so i did some looking and tried to post pictures but they will not post using the insert image. can anyone tell me how. i will try a link on this window. i used this picture of the timing belt in this post the other pictures.
the timing belt looks to me to be installed correctly. the flywheel mark at 0 deg. the cam cog at the top aligned with the center of the valve cover. and the rotor pointing at #1 tower. any other hints? thanks bp

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...XowSEZNRThkRnM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...TFSSng3c1dWd3c
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...TVScnl1RE1UYlE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...0RjSDBnRldfTW8
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...2FLMTEtSmxodXc

 

Check the alignment mark of the intermediate shaft cogged pulley And the mark on the crank gear as in the pic. of alignment marks. ALL slack is to be on the tensioner side of the belt, any drawn up by tensioning WILL throw off pulley alignment.

 

yep it is. the cog that goes to the distributor is really not that important as the distributor can be turns some to compensate. however when i installed that belt i did turn the engine over 2 times to make sure all the marks were in alignment. and they were. so it the crank timing mark is on 0 and the cam is in the 0 position then the cam is still timed to 0 . thanks bp.

 

Then I would say that you are GOOD on the belt then and is a fuel problem as talked about before.

 

thanks i will direct my work in that area. i will look for a different tb and see if it helps. thanks for this help. bp.