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2008 Voyager engine cuts out when accelerating

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  #31  
Old 07-14-2014, 02:25 PM
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I had the same sympton, it turned out to be an blown injector seal.
 
  #32  
Old 07-14-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Landregan
I had a look at the filter assy today. No burned wires, and no burned plug. So thats not the issue.

I have however just replaced the filter can, the old one looked like it had been there a while, the innards were BLACK. Fitted the new one as tight as my arm would allow in that tight space (Don't have a car lift). Primed the plunger a few times. She started no issues, left running for 5 mins to make sure there was no air still in the system.

Took her for a run and no cutting out so far. Hmm cant be this easy surly? All these months dangerous situations every day, for a 15 quid filter??????????
- it ["""(1) spin-diesel filter loose or the (2) screw on water trap is not loose"""] happens see here
- its 10 days since your 'fix' and your last visit to the forum, is it still running ok ?
 
  #33  
Old 07-15-2014, 01:53 AM
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Things that were already done:
-replaced fuel filter
-inspected the tank
-cleaned MAF

Car is very smoky now. My wife was following me today in he car and she said it was a lot of stinky black smoke coming out from my Voyager.

Is Richard still diagnosing the Voyagers? After reading this thread I noticed that he is probably the best person to contact regarding the stalling problem.

Cheers,
Bart
 
  #34  
Old 07-15-2014, 09:51 AM
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Yes, Richard would be your best bet. He lives North of Huntingdon, but commutes to work night-shift in London, so you would have to agree a mutually convenient place to meet.


If you have cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor and we can assume airflow is "normal" then there has to be a reason for it running too rich - or it is burning engine oil. Richard has the equipment to test the car electronically and get whatever indications you can from that but the only obvious thing about the smoke would, perhaps be injection - too much fuel. Less obvious would be a stuck Exhaust Recirculation Valve although that does not seem to be as tempremental as some people think. It returns exhaust gas to the intake manifold and if stuck open might (only might) cause a rich or incomplete burn.


That does not answer stall at 3,000 RMP
 
  #35  
Old 07-16-2014, 01:44 AM
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Does anyone know how to contact him? I would rather drive to Huntingdon to get it diagnosed than spend fortune on parts locally.
 
  #36  
Old 07-16-2014, 01:58 AM
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send me a PM

Regards

Richard
 
  #37  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:31 AM
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Could you please email me? My address is bart.ludwicki@gmail.com
For some reason I can not access your profile to send a pm.
Thanks
 
  #38  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:20 AM
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For those asking, by simply replacing the fuel filter and ensuring everything was tight as can be. The cut out has stopped.

Now only to solve the black smoke when accerating harder.

Cleaned MAF with cleaner, nice and shiny (Previously coated with oily gunk, probably from K&N filter), so cleaned the filter too.

Is there a way to test the EGR? No codes are reported by OBDII, also MOT is an easy pass.
 
  #39  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:22 AM
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For what it's worth, I wonder what you mean by "accelerating harder" Remeber it is a diesel and most diesels seem to have difficulty with burining fuel completely under acceleration. You are putting more fuel into the cylinders that the cylinder can use, that shows up as black smoke and I am pretty sure all owners with the 2.5/2.8 CRD engine would say the same thing. The real question is: does it smoke when cruising?


I dont know of a physical test for the EGR valve. My car is a 2.8 with the valve at the front of the engine and I can actually see it move (it is vacuum controlled so it is easy to remove vacuum etc) but I think the 2.5 has the EGR valve at the back (out of sight - out of mind). I suspect that there are reports that can be downloaded that whould give a hint that an experienced person (Richard) could read.


I am glad you sorted out the filter - it is a pretty common problem. If it starts cutting out again I would suggest replacing the heater housing that the filter assy screws into, as that can develop cracks allowing air to be sucked into the fuel.


Otherwise your car is beginning to sound "normal"
 

Last edited by vrc8883; 07-17-2014 at 10:24 AM.
  #40  
Old 07-20-2014, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Landregan
For those asking, by simply replacing the fuel filter and ensuring everything was tight as can be. The cut out has stopped..
From Dec 2012

Quick potted history:

- parked up about a week
- of and on -5 °C never got over freezing point, car never used
- started first time as usual - 800CCA / 75ah - Bosch

- ran for 5 minutes then stopped

Got a M8 round with a two battery Land Cruiser, 8 minutes at 2000RPM from him into my battery, it spun over like an airplane prop, no start - Aborted to the pub.

Next day ditto, it wouldn't start, pulled an injector pipe and it dribbled like a baby. Made good the injector and felt around for a hand primer, found it [after removing the plastic engine cover] flat as a *art, hand pumped and primed till the bubble was hard and the pipe was pressured. It turned over and started.

- ran for 5 minutes then stopped

Clearly the hand priming could pull all the way and fill the filter but the cars 12-17psi low pressure pump could not. Still not sure I've sorted it but the fact is a hand prime will do it so I figure [only a guess] the slack fuel filter was drawing in air allowing the fuel run back once the tension was off it. Took it for a 20 minute each way ride to here with my mate in tow in case I needed another pump~n~jump and it ran like a well tuned sports car. So I've been on a garage ramp and had a look all the way from tank to engine, no visual or otherwise obvious problems, didn't check the fuel heater, because the plastic cover was warm to the touch so I assumed working ok.

If that proves to be the case and its sorted fine, I'm happy. If not I'll 'chonk' about 4 inches out of the metal [coated] fuel line and stick an in-line one way filter, that'll stop the bugger running back and give me the added benefit of a 'visual' on fuel. Even without the - °C cold weather I'll know tomorrow if the fuel has 'run backwards'. Thanks for your attention on this joker2cv, I'm still open to ideas and suggestions from you or anyone else.

Now to make my bad two days better, went out to it today and some 'snotrag' decided to completely snap off my drivers side mirror from a folded position, nice init ?

Update, and a salutary lesson. Went outside today, fired first time, so "a slack fuel filter was drawing in air" and allowing the fuel to run back was the cause. The lesson .. .. check the obvious first and the spin on fuel filter is the obvious.
 


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