Yes, all wires match both sides.

I'm thinking swapping the two grey/red wires won't make a difference as they both look to be purely a +ve. I'll check them with the ignition off and with it on and see if there's a voltage.

One of the things I read suggested a can bus issue, so I'll try disconnecting the PCI BUS and see if that gets rid of it too. If that does it, I might just put a little switch in.

 

Both power wires are live all the time, and both need disconnected to lose the current draw.

Pulling the pci bus also loses it, but that could be because it's killing the stereo. Or that could be the problem.

Here's the link that put a possible pci bus fault into my head.

RB3 Radio Sat Nav Drains Battery Problem

Different unit and system (can bus not pci bus), but sounds plausable.

Think it's going to be the switch.

 

Dip yer toe in here me old mucka.

- then drink Brown Ale !

 

Hmm, getting more and more strange then if both have constant power, but I'm guessing whatever is providing power constantly over the ACC feed isn't high current enough to run the windows (Or like you're thinking a problem on the BUS).

Another one to try, pull the auto shut down relay (nearest to front bumper, left of IPM box) and see if the radio goes off. That would be my bet if it was a faulty relay/corrosion causing it.
Other than that, the other one I'd check was the accessory relay (2nd up from front bumper on the left) again pull it and see if radio goes out. Then do manual checks on the relays and make sure they're making the right contacts.
Pin out on the 87A relays are:

85 Coil
86 Coil
87 Normally Open (NO)
87a Normally Closed (NC)
30 Common connection to NO & NC terminals

Give me a shout if you need a bit more debugging info on the relays, or you could "borrow" the wiper or horn relay (for auto shut down) or Front blower motor (for accessory relay).

Hope that helps. I'm aiming for the easy fixes here, as once you go into the BUS and other problems it's getting tricky and more expensive.

 

Sorry for the delay, been busy at work but had another wee look last night. Plus it's been warmer and the car's being used enough for it not to be a problem.

I'd pulled the auto shut down relay previously and also the accessory relay, but it didn't lose the draw.

I've looked at the radio plug diagram again, and I've got my own wires crossed somehow. It's terminal 2, the "fused ignition switch output (run acc)" that cuts the draw, not the pci bus, but the windows still have power at that.

I'll check out the relay contacts today, just going to look through the workshop manual for wiring diagrams and see where the grey/pink wire goes too.

 

MOT due next month, so I put her in today and she passed with not so much as an advisory.
My MOT place has a new brake testing system in, that gives you a printout, so I thought I'd post it up.


Apparently even although this says pass, there's numbers on the garages copy that are put into the computer and the computer ultimately decides whether it's a pass or fail.

No other progress made with the power drain, other than I've cut the ignition switch output (acc run) meaning the battery's not being drained.
It sat for 2 weeks there and started no problem. I'm off work for another couple of weeks, so once the wifes to do list is complete, I'm going to dismantle the fuse box to see if there's anything in there.
I've also noticed the 12v supply with a key on the cover is live all the time. I'm guessing that one should need the ignition on to work as well.

All that aside, I've now got a towbar to fit. Just in case the back with the seats down isn't enough.

 

That's done by a fuse selection. F6 20 Amp 12 Volt Out Ignition or Battery.

 

Sorry folks, I hadn't looked into this as disconnecting the radio switched wire had solved the battery drain issue.
Windows were still live thought.
I read something on the .co.uk forum tonight, posted by thedaytyler, talking about fitting an aftermarket radio (as mines has had at some point).

"Yes it is possible but it takes some major moding of the area, there is also the problem that the original radio communicates with the ECU via the bus and to get the radio to power on there is a relay that need shorting ( or run a separate power feed ).

I'd pulled the relay that powered the radio/window etc, and for 87a, when you look down inside, there is no connection.

I'm suspecting now that whoever fitted the aftermarket stereo, has taken the wire/spade out of 87a and connected it to a constant live feed.

I WILL get round to it at some point, but a bit concerned about taking the fusebox to bits.