Has anyone else experienced this problem with their 3.5 v-6 LHS? It starts ok but doesn't want to idle and immediately stalls. The idle at one point went from 500 to 1500 and back down then immediately stalled. I shut the a/c off to see if that made a difference but it didn't. In order to move it to another part of the driveway I had to keep feathering the gas pedal and brake in order to keep it from stalling. It started out as an intermittent stalling problem at first. It stalled on my wife once when we first bought it a couple months ago. It also stalled a couple times when at a stoplight today. It was parked for nearly an hour when this Stalling occurred. Check engine light is on but I wont have a scanner till tommorrow. Any ideas what it may be? It doesn't have quite 36K on the odo yet. Thanks in advance!

 

turn the key on and off3x and the codes will be displayed in the mileage window

 

OK. Now I am beginning to think my car is possessed. I went out to start it and see what would happen from sitting overnite. Went to start it and the battery was dead! WTF? Just a clicking sound coming from the underhood fuse box. Took the cover off and found the sound coming from the Auto shutdown relay. It was just clicking away even with the key off and out of the ignition. I removed the relay and could still here a pulsing sound from where the relay was plugged in and then it stopped. Could also here clicking sound from the injectors cycling even with relay out.Put relay back in and put a jump box on it and the car started! Went up to 1500 rpm on tach and quickly swung down to 500 idling rough and stalled as before.Check engine light came on when it stalled so I cycled the ignition 3 times like you said and that worked perfect! But only gave me one code a P1684 that was it. Now I am really confused as it was running fine up until yesterday's dilemma. I now have the battery charging. Any Ideas anyone?

 

Couple things going on there. Battery? Probably. Get it load tested. If you can get it jumped, take it to an autozone, if you have one, and they can do that while it's on the car so you don't have to worry about trying to pull it from it's cubby hole.
Next, after you make sure you have a "good" battery, have the alternator checked. It is possible that the alternator may be causing some issues with the battery, as well as engine operation.
Also, get the codes pulled and see what's going on there. Almost sounds like a TPS giving you trouble. I had that problem in my 98 concorde 3.2, no codes but sure made things not work very well. Felt like the tranny was going out. But it was just that sensor.

 

Same thing is happening to me. I have been looking all over the internets for an answer, or someone who has had this problem and reported a fix. I have the same exact starting problems as you, where the car when started will just stall within 5 seconds if I dont press on the gas, and my battery will not have enough juice to start the car and keep it running most of the time, also my voltage light comes on after about 5 minutes.

I have had battery and alternator replaced, after finding both originals were bad, atleast the original battery was just old, but the alternator was bad. The new alternator tests bad, the new battery tests good, but I was told a bad ground somewhere could cause the alternator to test bad, and after my research I have figured I need to buy a voltmeter and test a increase/decrease in resistance as I pull fuses one by one, then if that yields something trace down that fuses wiring to make sure I dont have a bad ground somewhere that is draining the battery more then the alternator can replenish it. Did you ever fix your problem?

 

an alternator will not make the car just stall nor will it not allow the car to start up. It has one purpose that is to charge the battery and keep electrical power flowing through the car when running. IF an alternator is going bad U will get a battery light then shortly after that U will then have drained all of the battery power and then the car dies.
It wont cause a start up then die because the battery wont have enough power to do anything so any one telling u the battery and alt are bad they dont know a dam thing.

 

No actually I tried a couple things but it didn't fix it. I replaced the pcv valve cuz it had 35k and was a cheap start. Then I cleaned the throttle body but it still didnt fix it. So I started checking for bad grounds and found the terminals a little corroded but the negative cable needed replacing. I replaced it and hoped that it might have been a bad ground causing all the issues but it did not fix it. It would start but loaded up cuz the injectors were still pulsing with the key off. Only until I pulled the fuel pump relay and swapped it with the hi/low wiper relay which is the same did it stop. I had it towed to a professional shop today cuz it is beyond my expertise. I also don't have an OBD-2 scanner!! I will let you know what they find with my scenario!!

 

Jeez, well this doesnt give me much hope, I got my 99 LHS for about $400 under kelly blue book, I thought I was getting a deal, and the guy who sold me the car did seem kinda nervous during the test drive, he described the problem as being nothing more then just a bad alternator. I really have been trying to do alot of research on this subject, but not finding many to any answers, just about a dozen posts on various websites describing generally the same problems, with the electrical systems.

I hate when people post a question/problem on websites, and get possible solutions but dont follow up with what they did, whither they got the problem solved, what worked, what didnt, what was the result you know? Im gonna have my alternator taken out today, and replaced with a confirmed good one, hopefully that stops my voltage light woes, will also check for bad grounds. Good luck to you.

 

how about the fuse is it blown?

 

Curious that you ask if the fuse is blown. I was looking at my fuse box on the inside dash to the left of the steering wheel. And under Fuse #6, it says IGN and BATT, in the cars manual it is rated at 15 amp, and there is 1 blue 2 blade 15 amp fuse in there, but it was only inserted in 2 of the 3 receptors that are there. its odd, fuse 6 has 3 holes/receptors, and the one to the left is labeled IGN, the one to the right is labeled BATT, while the one in the middle isnt labeled at all, I have been looking and called Autozone to ask if there is a such thing as a 3 blade fuse, they said there are 3 blade relays, but none that the blades are all alligned. this is odd.