that batt,ign is for the cig lighter U can have it power only when u have the key on or any time with the battery this fuse will be under the hood if i remember right it also is labels for the o2 sensors

 

Alright, well I took the advice of a good friend of mine who owns a couple shops in CA and has been a professional mechanic for about 28 years. He told me to go to an auto electric shop and pay to have a full charging system check done, because I was about to buy a new PCM which would have cost me about $200 from ebay, and maybe another $50 in labor to have it put in.

He told me look, it might cost anywhere from $40-$100 for the full charging system/electrical system check, but IT WILL BE WORTH IT, if you take it to a place that specializes in car electronic systems, they will be able to tell you for sure what your problem is, at least then you will know whither or not you need to buy a new PCM, but I will tell you in 28 years, I have never seen this type of car have a bad PCM needing to be replaced or cause the problems you are telling me.

So I took it to the most highly recommended auto electric shop in my area, and they were very nice, told me "if there is a problem with your charging system we will find it" so that kind of assured me.

Turns out the problem with my whole voltage light situation, was that on the positive battery cable someone had put a 40 amp fuse in-line with the cable, dont ask me why it was there, the guys at the auto shop said maybe someone put it there because they were trying to setup an after market cd player or something, but anyways, my alternator is supposed to pump out up to 120 amps of current to the battery, well that 40 amp fuse was in the way, bottle knecking the charging system, so it was making the alternator work extra hard because the computer was telling the alternator the battery is not being charged so work harder, and it was, but because that stupid 40 amp fuse was in the cable line, the battery could get no more then 40 amps of current, and if the car demanded more current, it would just blow the fuse, and the battery would drain pretty quick while the car ran. So yeah, in the end, had I given my good friend in California a call from the start, or maybe been given advice to go to a auto electric shop, chances are I wouldnt have needed a new alternator, or a new battery, so I ended up putting out $250 for new alternator/labor, and about $90 for a new battery, and about $60 in gasoline going back and forth between my mechanics home and my house and getting rides back and forth for 2 weeks so the car could be dropped off and worked on. In the end a good auto electric shop is all it took to fix my particular problem and it cost me a grand total of $218 including labor and a new wiring system to and from the battery/alternator. Now I can drive me sweet new ride. FINALLY WOOO, its nice to drive for more then 10 miles without that damned voltage light coming on and my power going out.

 

maybe a bad starter or a connection problem

 

I have a 2004 Concorde with 43,xxx miles and I was having a problem with stalling, idling, acceleration. Went to the dealer with a 0300 misfire code. They spent 7 days with it and did not fix it. Finally, after talking to others, I took it back and added some LUCAS fuel injector cleaner. That took care of all my problems. Google research showed all my symptoms for dirty fuel injectors and I had reported all of them to the dealer. I was disappointed with the dealers diagnosis.

 

ok so what are u offering here are u just bitching the u got some one at the dealer that was not capable of doing the job correctly?
In 7 days what did they do any way>?

 

Isn't that so you can change whether your accessory power (lighter) plugs work only when the accessory switch is on, or ANY time (battery)?

 

I'm new to the forum, but my point was that if someone had a similar problem to maybe go first to the fuel injectors and clean them. If that doesn't work then you do more troubleshooting. (Oh Mr. Chrysler Tech, you sound like a real jerk) It doesn't cost anymore to be polite.

 

hind site is always 20 20 my friend once i find an issue u can say well why was that not tried first and really really doubt that fuel injector cleaner fixed your issue sorry to say there is never a magic cure all in a can.

any well how much do u want to spend on replacing fuel injectors and say oh well whats next. There has to be more to the story then u are leading on

 

My issue is with a 1996 concorde lxi, 3.5L, starts up and then dies no matter what you do, feather the gas, tap the brake, nothing stops it from stalling out, but turn the switch completly off and it will start every time, smooth no skips or misses, but dies within 3 sec. everytime. I have changed the idle control valve and replaced the fuel pump, checked all fuses and relays. But it is still doing the same thing it was doing the day I got it. Have I missed something? I'm doing this for my single mom cousin and only charging her for the parts. I have basic mechanic tools, wrenches, meter, screw drivers. Anything you can offer will be greatly appreciated. I hear the fuel pump prime up when the switch is turned on, but its like it doesn't run after i start the engine, is that possible? Does it receive its signal from somewhere else after the initial priming?

 

Sounds like the inertia switch may have been activated, or a security feature of some sort. Inertia switch is usually in the trunk. It's like a roll-over switch. Won't let the car run until reset. If it's a security feature, it's probably just pushing the right buttons on the radio to correct it. Good luck.