300M, Concorde, LHS, New Yorker Discuss the Chrysler LH platform cars within.

Anyone swap their inner tie rod bushings on a 2k?

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  #1  
Old 04-23-2007, 08:04 PM
shootme5150's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Default Anyone swap their inner tie rod bushings on a 2k?

I've had a wobbling in my driver's side wheel for a month or so now... pulled the wheel off to find the inner tie rod bushing is shot. Has anyone swapped theirs? I did a search on here (through most of the web, actually), but haven't found any descriptions. I've got a hayne's manual, but it's damn near worthless - the closest thing I can find in there is swapping the entire rack. Not exactly what I'm looking to do. It appears as though I'll have to yank the entire intake, but I'm not sure what else. Just trying to get an idea of how much time it's going to take before I decide to break into it. Anyone have any experience with this (or know of a tutorial / walk-through / etc)?

TIA
 
  #2  
Old 05-03-2007, 04:31 PM
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 5
Default RE: Anyone swap their inner tie rod bushings on a 2k?

I did it on my 1999 LHS, hopefully I can help.
1. Remove air box/air filter up to the throttle body.
2. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, this will position the inner tie rods towards the passenger side of the vehicle (where you can gain acces from removing the air box).
3. It is a tight fit, if you need more room you can take off your wiper blades and cowl, I didn't have to do that when I did it though.
4. There are tabs you will have to bend back to gain access to the bolt head. Then you can remove the bolts holding them in. Only do one side at a time, or you wont be able to get the holes to line up while reassembly.
5. The OEM bushing are rubber press fit, to remove them I used a razor blade to cut off the edge and then prued them out with a screw driver.
6. The new bushing should be 2 piece ($20 at NAPA).
7. Renistall in reverse order, torque down and bend the tabs back against the bolt head.

I had the same problem with my wheel wobbling, while taking it all apart I noticed that the pinch bolt on the adjuster sleeve for the tie rod end (outer) was loose, allowing the outer tie rod end to move just enough to make my steering wheel wobble. My inner tie rods ends weren't even the problem, butI replaced them anyways since I had it all apart.

Good luck, I hope I helped.
 
  #3  
Old 08-30-2010, 04:50 AM
kurtdaniel's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by shootme5150
I've had a wobbling in my driver's side wheel for a month or so now... pulled the wheel off to find the inner tie rod end bushing is shot. Has anyone swapped theirs? I did a search on here (through most of the web, actually), but haven't found any descriptions. I've got a hayne's manual, but it's damn near worthless - the closest thing I can find in there is swapping the entire rack. Not exactly what I'm looking to do. It appears as though I'll have to yank the entire intake, but I'm not sure what else. Just trying to get an idea of how much time it's going to take before I decide to break into it. Anyone have any experience with this (or know of a tutorial / walk-through / etc)?

TIA
I replaced the passenger side inner tie rod. It was no big deal. Just make sure that you know where the steering wheel should be when the rack is centered and adjust the new tie rod as close as you can get it by eye. Then spring for a wheel alignment. The torque needed to loosen the retaining nut is not that great and it all can be done with normal tools. As I remember I used a large adjustable wrench for the large nut. Check for vertical play in the rack to see that the rack bushing has not been damaged by the impact.
 

Last edited by kurtdaniel; 08-30-2010 at 08:43 PM.
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