08 Chrysler Sebring issues
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2021
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08 Chrysler Sebring issues
So I figured I would try here, see if anyone can help me here.
#1 I've already done some work on this car. 2.4l vin k, 187,000 miles. New water pump, alternator and belt. Actually the third alternator this car has had as far as I know. New power steering lines, new drivers side wheel hub, about to put new pads on soon.
#2 had to replace negative battery cable and battery because my brother popped the battery loose from it's moorings and drug it underneath the car at 20mph. Now I'm thinking the positive cable may need to be replaced also, but they want $150 for new battery harness. Is there a quality way to put in a new positive cable without breaking the bank? It's been flickering real bad at idle and will stall on rare occasion, but it all goes away once it's over about 1200 rpm. I wanna replace the cable to power block and to the jump start connection in the engine bay but AutoZone etc just have generic cables that don't have the connections I need.
#3 City streets the vehicle steers and handles okay. It might have a small drift to the right but nothing major that an alignment probably wouldn't fix. But I do sometimes hear a clunking sound (front right, maybe?) And it will sometimes be really sketchy at low speeds under 10mph on a bumpy or uneven road, but on normal road it feels ok. Been thinking of replacing struts and motor mounts both but still unsure of exact cause.
#4 I'm going to a tire shop today to have my tires looked at. Over 55mph they feel really wobbly and I think they are out of balance. Either that or the rod ends are going. 3/9 and 12/6 tire shake test doesn't reveal anything now that the wheel hub (drivers side) Is replaced. Just in case the balance test is negative, anything else I should be looking for?
#1 I've already done some work on this car. 2.4l vin k, 187,000 miles. New water pump, alternator and belt. Actually the third alternator this car has had as far as I know. New power steering lines, new drivers side wheel hub, about to put new pads on soon.
#2 had to replace negative battery cable and battery because my brother popped the battery loose from it's moorings and drug it underneath the car at 20mph. Now I'm thinking the positive cable may need to be replaced also, but they want $150 for new battery harness. Is there a quality way to put in a new positive cable without breaking the bank? It's been flickering real bad at idle and will stall on rare occasion, but it all goes away once it's over about 1200 rpm. I wanna replace the cable to power block and to the jump start connection in the engine bay but AutoZone etc just have generic cables that don't have the connections I need.
#3 City streets the vehicle steers and handles okay. It might have a small drift to the right but nothing major that an alignment probably wouldn't fix. But I do sometimes hear a clunking sound (front right, maybe?) And it will sometimes be really sketchy at low speeds under 10mph on a bumpy or uneven road, but on normal road it feels ok. Been thinking of replacing struts and motor mounts both but still unsure of exact cause.
#4 I'm going to a tire shop today to have my tires looked at. Over 55mph they feel really wobbly and I think they are out of balance. Either that or the rod ends are going. 3/9 and 12/6 tire shake test doesn't reveal anything now that the wheel hub (drivers side) Is replaced. Just in case the balance test is negative, anything else I should be looking for?
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Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 83
You will have a much better picture of what's actually going on once you get the alignment/balance checked. Remove those variables from the equation, and if the problem remains... I would start considering replacing ball joints, control arm bushings, and subframe bushings. I am in the same boat...
2008 sedan 2.4L (VIN K), and it just passed 200k. I'm experiencing ****-poor braking, at any speed. I am replacing the front brakes, here directly, with some StopTech cyro-treated, slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads. But I think my problems most likely originate from my rear drums. My mileage puts those drums at the end of their service life, and the dragging and fading and shudder could all be coming from that. Front brakes do most of the work, though, so I am going to replace them with something I trust first. Car pulls when braking, and that is usually a front brake problem... so maybe the problem is more in my front brakes than I originally suspected. We will find out when I get the rotors (already got the pads).
Anyways, I refuse to service drum brakes, or pay anyone else to, or pay money for new drum brakes... so I have been tracking down all the factory part numbers for the BRF rear disc brakes... BRF is the larger of the factory disc brake options... and I will start buying said parts piece by piece until I can replace the drums with discs. Will get similar StopTech cyro/slotted rotors, and I really don't care which pads go back there after that.
Not sure if you have drums, or not, but they tend to die around our mileage. As do crappy rubber bushings... I have been able to find, not buy (yet), poly bushings for 90% of the suspension. Whiteline and SuperPro, if you are interested. Both of those companies also make adjustable sway bar links. But I haven't found any poly subframe bushings, so might have to just buy a whole new subframe if those bushings are bad.
Bad bushings will lead to a pretty gnarly clunk as the suspension settles and metal ends up resting on metal... you can feel the car lurch like an inch vertically when the bushings settle like that. If that is something you are experiencing, check your bushings. I don't think my bushings are that bad, yet, but I know I am approaching the mileage where rubber bushings cease to function (sometimes even cease to exist). I won't be able to adequately judge the condition of my bushings until I fix my brakes, though.
Similarly, I don't think you will be capable of properly assessing your problems until you remove the alignment/balance from the equation.
As for your battery situation... bite the bullet and buy the factory replacement cables. Buy once, cry once. And don't let whomever dragged your battery under the car anywhere near it anymore. Lol.
2008 sedan 2.4L (VIN K), and it just passed 200k. I'm experiencing ****-poor braking, at any speed. I am replacing the front brakes, here directly, with some StopTech cyro-treated, slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads. But I think my problems most likely originate from my rear drums. My mileage puts those drums at the end of their service life, and the dragging and fading and shudder could all be coming from that. Front brakes do most of the work, though, so I am going to replace them with something I trust first. Car pulls when braking, and that is usually a front brake problem... so maybe the problem is more in my front brakes than I originally suspected. We will find out when I get the rotors (already got the pads).
Anyways, I refuse to service drum brakes, or pay anyone else to, or pay money for new drum brakes... so I have been tracking down all the factory part numbers for the BRF rear disc brakes... BRF is the larger of the factory disc brake options... and I will start buying said parts piece by piece until I can replace the drums with discs. Will get similar StopTech cyro/slotted rotors, and I really don't care which pads go back there after that.
Not sure if you have drums, or not, but they tend to die around our mileage. As do crappy rubber bushings... I have been able to find, not buy (yet), poly bushings for 90% of the suspension. Whiteline and SuperPro, if you are interested. Both of those companies also make adjustable sway bar links. But I haven't found any poly subframe bushings, so might have to just buy a whole new subframe if those bushings are bad.
Bad bushings will lead to a pretty gnarly clunk as the suspension settles and metal ends up resting on metal... you can feel the car lurch like an inch vertically when the bushings settle like that. If that is something you are experiencing, check your bushings. I don't think my bushings are that bad, yet, but I know I am approaching the mileage where rubber bushings cease to function (sometimes even cease to exist). I won't be able to adequately judge the condition of my bushings until I fix my brakes, though.
Similarly, I don't think you will be capable of properly assessing your problems until you remove the alignment/balance from the equation.
As for your battery situation... bite the bullet and buy the factory replacement cables. Buy once, cry once. And don't let whomever dragged your battery under the car anywhere near it anymore. Lol.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2021
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Honestly forgot I had posted this. Since this was posted I've put new ball joints, outer tie rods and a new battery harness (OEM). Still on my list right now is inner tie rods (left front has been diagnosed as bad, gonna replace the pair just to have it done). Also all four coilovers are gonna be replaced, possibly control arms too.
Electrical issues have ceased, steering and suspension is better but will probably be much improved after new sway bar links, inner tie rods and coilovers are replaced.
Electrical issues have ceased, steering and suspension is better but will probably be much improved after new sway bar links, inner tie rods and coilovers are replaced.
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