I just finishing helping a friend on his 2002 Sebring sedan. He had issues with broken wiring in the harness into the drivers door. He then lost the ability to lock/unlock his doors with the remote, and inside unless the key was on. The radio had quit, the interior lights, the trunk release. Also the mileage indicator when you open the door didn't work.
I had checked the fuses for the radio, the power amp of the radio, the door locks etc. They were all good
After checking his wiring repair, I found this forum and tried the WD40 trick that member dcotter0579, and cleaned a bunch of gunk from the key, but that didn't clear it. So I went back to basics and started checking more fuses. Fuse number 5 is mounted in a special holder for some reason. I checked it, it was blown. After replacing it, the trunk unlock works, the radio works, the door locks works, the mileage indicator works.....everything.
What I do not understand is the 10 amp fuse is labelled interior light and remote mirrors. How does that tie in with the radio and door locks?
Anyway, my friend is very happy, I'm happy, but confused.
I am glad I found this forum, and hope this helps someone else facing this trouble

 

That fuse with the "ears" on it is the IOD (ignition off draw) fuse. All the stuff that would work without the key being on is tied into that fuse. Stuff like the interior lights, power seat, clock (it's in the radio), door locks and whatever else there is can all be killed by pulling that fuse.
The idea is that if the car sits on the dealer lot for a month or so, they want a way to quickly and easily disconnect anything that could drain the battery. Then when they want to show the car to a potential buyer, one easy step will bring it all back to life, no tools required and the fuse stays right there.
Confusion removed?

 

After posting, I kept looking for more information as my friend bought the car used and did not have an owners manual. I found one on line that gave me the whole story as to what that fuse does. That cleared up a lot questions, and then with the reply about the fuse holder clears it right up!
Thanks

 

Actually have one more question, more for future reference.
After seeing the repair of the wiring my friend did, I think there will be
future repair of the other wires that go from the driver door back into the car. Under the rubber boot there is 2 plug/ socket type connectors right at the door frame. They have some type of locking clip that holds the plug into the socket. What is the trick to unclipping the locks without damaging the plug or socket to remove the plug to allow a little more room to work on the cracked wiring under the rubber boot, and to put the rubber boot back onto the socket at the frame

 

Those clips on wiring harnesses are designed to go together easily in the assembly plant and stay together. There are numerous styles to accomplish that goal. Getting them apart usually involves lifting the part that slides over the catch. Sometimes that is done by squeezing the clip, sometimes that is done by slipping a tiny screwdriver under the clip and lifting it enough to slide it over the catch. Take a close look at it and decide the best way. Usually, if you can lift the catch, the plug will come out with little effort. Some styles have a part that you must move aside or slide in order to unplug the connector. That part is often red or orange and is easy to spot. Patience and careful observation will usually let you figure it out. If you are pulling hard on the plug you haven't unlocked it. Once unlocked, it should be easy.