1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible won't start, junk it?
#1
09-06-2016, 09:00 PM
1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible won't start, junk it?
1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, V6 2.5
About 2 months ago, in a rain storm, the car started running really rough, and would idle erratically. When you gave it gas it would be really touchy and wouldn't get up to speed very easily.
Changed the plugs and wires and Throttle Position Sensor because there was a code for the TPS.
It ran a little better but not much.
2 months later it stopped running in the middle of the road, again in a rain storm, showed "No BUS" on instrument cluster, pushed it to a parking lot and had it towed to a shop. Would not start at all (cranked fine, but would not ignite, once in a while one 'pop' or so you could hear).
Shop said there were tons of codes for transmission, the TPS (we never cleared it) and "No BUS" displayed on cluster.
They did a compression check and found on the front 3 cylinders, compression was at 110, 65, 115 and didn't check the rear 3.
They said due to that, must be the timing jumped and bent the valves. Would be over $2,000 to fix. And also probably needed a new computer, but that was a guess by them.
The car only has 75,000 miles on it and is really good shape. Should I junk it or is there something I can try to fix myself? Anything I should try? Replace distributor, Crankshaft position sensor? Those 2 seem to be the most common, but what about the low compression? What should I do next?
About 2 months ago, in a rain storm, the car started running really rough, and would idle erratically. When you gave it gas it would be really touchy and wouldn't get up to speed very easily.
Changed the plugs and wires and Throttle Position Sensor because there was a code for the TPS.
It ran a little better but not much.
2 months later it stopped running in the middle of the road, again in a rain storm, showed "No BUS" on instrument cluster, pushed it to a parking lot and had it towed to a shop. Would not start at all (cranked fine, but would not ignite, once in a while one 'pop' or so you could hear).
Shop said there were tons of codes for transmission, the TPS (we never cleared it) and "No BUS" displayed on cluster.
They did a compression check and found on the front 3 cylinders, compression was at 110, 65, 115 and didn't check the rear 3.
They said due to that, must be the timing jumped and bent the valves. Would be over $2,000 to fix. And also probably needed a new computer, but that was a guess by them.
The car only has 75,000 miles on it and is really good shape. Should I junk it or is there something I can try to fix myself? Anything I should try? Replace distributor, Crankshaft position sensor? Those 2 seem to be the most common, but what about the low compression? What should I do next?
Last edited by cuda2000; 09-06-2016 at 09:03 PM.
#2
09-06-2016, 11:48 PM
The only fix for bent valves is to pull the head and repair the valves. Not cheap nor easy for a DIYer. It's pointless to fool around with crank sensors, distributor or anything electrical while you've got a serious mechanical issue.
If you really like the car and want to get it running again, you could get a shop manual and read up on the repair of the valve problem. Then you can decide whether you and your tool box (and wallet) are up to the task. It's possible to pull the head(s) yourself and hire a machine shop to do the valve job. Keep in mind that it may have several other problems in addition.
The alternative, if you can't see spending the money, is to sell the car to someone who would be able to do the work. You won't get much for a 20-year-old non-running car with possible additional issues like the transmission.
Good luck.
If you really like the car and want to get it running again, you could get a shop manual and read up on the repair of the valve problem. Then you can decide whether you and your tool box (and wallet) are up to the task. It's possible to pull the head(s) yourself and hire a machine shop to do the valve job. Keep in mind that it may have several other problems in addition.
The alternative, if you can't see spending the money, is to sell the car to someone who would be able to do the work. You won't get much for a 20-year-old non-running car with possible additional issues like the transmission.
Good luck.
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