2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
 

It looks like thermostat housing, there is no thermostat in it. It is made of 2 plastic pieces glued(!) together.Seam is leaking.I broke them apart and glued with JB weld. I hope it will work. Dealer doesn't sell it w/o temp. sensor! 90 dollars!!!
Chrysler tech, can you remove it w/o removing intake manifold? I couldn't.
Upper radiator hose is going to that part and 2 smaller ones.

RE: 2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
 

its called a water jacket or water outlet housing. U can remove it yes with out taking off the intake u need some swivle sockets.

RE: 2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
 

Do you replace them every day?

RE: 2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
 

not everyday no I would say in my shop of 18 techs about 5 a month

RE: 2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
 

Sorry this is a bit late for this forum, but I just foundit through my searchand it describes exactly my issue (Sebring convertible 2002 Limited, 97K).

I noticed the low coolant about 1 month ago. It's on/off. Actually I could not find any leak evidence (spots on driveway when car is running) except that coolant goes low and I sometimes smelled it while driving (no, it is not coming in the heater core).I once evengot the P0125 check engine code (coolant temp is always low), which was fixed by filling the coolant again. Also my heaterset on high would send out cold air when idle.However,a couple of days ago I noticed the leak from the seam that car5car described above in the coolant sensor housing (top of engine on the coolant reservoir side with 3 coolant pipes attached to it). I had just parked the car after a drive and left it running. But after a while of it being parked, running idle,the seam dried up as you see in the picture below. Notice in the photosthe white residue left on the outside plastic running down, and the discoloration around the seam on top.

Chryslter Tech, is this what you described as the "Water Jacket" or "Water Outlet Housing"? I can see 4 bolts which tie this part down, but onlyone of thoseseems like it would be a bit hard to get to (the manifold is a bit in the way).

My problem is finding this part (other than dealer). I looked everywhere online and searched under the "Water Jacket" and "Water Outlet Housing". All I get is the Thermostat Housing, which is a different part.

Any help on where to get this part without the Coolant sensor, on on part number, and any info/guidence/gotchas in terms of how to replace it would be greatly appreciated?

Here are 2 photos to show what I am having problems with, 1rst to show location (wide angle) and the other to show the part and the 3 coolant pipes attached to it and sensor (one pipe going to reservoir, other going to heater core I believe, and 3rd going to the radiator).

Thanks in advance Chrysler Tech and anyone else for help.

P.S. car5car, how did the JB Weld do? :)

[IMG]local://upfiles/4976/1462F992EDC24930A03B9B6604798DA1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4976/9647B4206CC74CD7A605F2A1A9E675B0.jpg[/IMG]

RE: 2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
 

Actually just found the part number from the local dealer.

The part number for the Water Outlet Housing (pictured above) for my car (2002 Sebring Convertible Limited which is the 2.7 engine) is 4792630AA . It comes with the coolant temp sensor, and they dont' sell it without the sensor! It sells for about $98 here (Atlanta Metro).

Chrysler Tech, you mentioned above that it can be taken out without removing the intake manifold using swivel sockets, but in another post you mentioned you have to take the upper intake manifold to remove it ( https://www.chryslerforum.com/m_6790/tm.htm) . So I have couple of questions:

1) Can you please clarify? Can one replace it without too much difficulty without removing the intake manifold? The way I see it is there are 4 bolts, and 3 of those are easily removable, but the 4th may need some tinkering. However, it does not look too difficult without removing instake. I could be wrong.

2) Do you know where I can purchase this without the sensor? I don't see why I should replace it with the sensor if all that I am fixing is the leak from the seam (plastic part) which has nothing to do with the sensor. Is there a problem with using the old sensor with a new housing?

3) How do you bleed the air bubbles? Do I simply have the coolant flushed after replacing it? or can I simply open the radiator drain and run the engine and keep filling fluid till no air bubbles come out? (no worries, I alway recycle the drained coolant).

4) Any other hints/gotchas?

Thanks again.

Sebring Water Outlet housing leak
 

I have the same "no heat" issue. Filling the coolant tank fixes it for a short time. I 1st thought the problem was a slight leak at the bleeder valve. Mine was seized and the bushing itself loosened from the housing and just turned. I removed the housing hoping to use JB weld to reseat the bushing. ( note: it's not that big a deal to remove the intake manifold, takes about 15 min max. Remove the 1 bolt holding the throttle cable cover, sqeeze the clip below the bolt, and remove the cover. Loosen the hose clamp holding the air intake hose to the throttle body (TB) and remove the hose. Remove the bolt directly below the TB that secures the TB to the engine. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper manifold to the engine. Remove the manifold.) Remove the 4 bolts that secure the water outlet to the block.
If the bleader bushing turns, you can reseat it once the housing is removed from the engine. Ensure the 2 gaskets are NOT on the bottom of the housing to avoid damaging them. Set the housing on a solid flat surface and using the correct size socket set on the bleader so it touches the bushing, gently tap the bushing inward into the housing and remove it from the large hose fitting. Clean the hole and the bushing with a small wire brush on a dremmel tool. Using a small (1/16") ball bit on the dremmel, grind some spots into the housing bleader hole to give some space for JB weld to sit in to help secure the bushing. Clean up the hole. Put some grease on the bleader threads (to keep JBW from the threads) and screw it into the bushing. Connect a 8" or so rubber hose on the bleader and feed the hose into the large outlet hole and up through the bleader hole. This will help guide the bleader into place. Apply some mixed JB weld to the outside of the bushing, and the inside of the bushing hole. Guide the bushing into place and tap it securly into the housing. JB weld can also be applied INSIDE the housing ( 2 or 3 coats) to try seal and re-inforce the housing. Since water pressure will push the JB weld against the inside of the housing, it should not break further. After the JB weld has cured (24 hrs) re-install the housing onto the engine ( 12NM or 105 inch pounds torque). Re-install the intake manifold ( Ensure no wiring connectors or hoses get trapped under the manifold ). Torque the manifold bolts to 12NM or 105 in Lbs as well but start from the center bolt moving out to the right of the car, then from the center to the left of the car. Fill the overflow tank and ensure the bleader screw is seated (you might want to drop a small rubber washer inside the bushing, so you don't have to tighten the bleader too much. Start the car and let it warm, then with the rubber hose connected to the bleeder and feeding back into the overflow tank, or into a clean container ( can be re-used) bleed any air out of the system. Hope for the best.

Yeah your right...it is called the water jacket.... you may try to take a look at this guys for swivel sockets... http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/20081...e-things-easy/
Hope this help you a little guys...


_________________
Thermostat

I recently had the Water Outlet Housing replaced on my 03 Sebring to the tune of $500. Needless to say I'm a bit unhappy. On top of that I have the Added Care Plus Service Contract and it was not covered. It was listed as a 3.5 hour job which seems to be alittle high considering what I've read in these posts. As a Chrysler Tech what are your thoughts on the cost? And do you know of another avenue to pursue reimbursement though the Service Contract. My dealer wasn't much help with that.
Thanks for your time.

Dealer gouging
 

I'm not a Chrysler Tech, and not even a mechanic... I just don't like to pay outragous $$$'s like that, ( OK, I'm cheap.. no, I meant "Thrify"), and
enjoy the challenge.. did my 1st oil change at 4years old on a 2 ton stake truck.. ( OK, I guided my grandfather to do it, who barely knew how to swing a hammer, while my dad was home sick and the truck had a long trip the next day.. Then in my teens, took the 4 banger out of my vega and put in an 283 V8, and took the A/C out of wrecked 75 Skyhawk, and installed it in my car.
Unless they changed the design a whole lot between 02 & 03, It shouldn't take more that 1 hr to do the job. The housing is about $150 from the dealer ( Yup.. That's gouge #1), and then labour should be under $100. If they charge more, maybe they don't know what they are doing.??

02 sebring water outlet housing
 

We have also had a problem with this part. As we were on the interstate we heard a noise and noticed the temperature gauge went up and then started dropping quickly. When we pulled over the housing had blown apart and the noise we heard was the top part of the housing hit our hood! We now have a dent in the hood. With it happening on the weekend there is not a part available - so we are trying the JB Weld until a part can be ordered. Fortunately my husband can do maintenance and it took him about thirty minutes to take it off. We will let you know how the JB Weld works.

find all about car auto parts, visit this web site, theautopartsshop.com. Chrysler Cirrus AC Condenser

the new design requires u to remove the intake to replace the tube that goes under the intake to the back water hose.

Thank you ! it's great

I had an old post about this. Go to Napa. They sell just the water box part. It'll make your job alot easier.

Bill

2.7 engine water outlet (Napa Part)
 

I tried Napa (Canada), they couldn't find it. Do you know their part number and was it Napa Canada or USA ? The one I found on their US web site (p/n BK6051763) is not the right shape.

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate this forum, although not the Auto services that over-inflate prices to make a buck. This job was quoted 345 at Bill Maynards, on Loomis Road in Milwaukee, wi., but out in the burbs, it's 240. Why so much difference??? I can see if it's 30 dollar difference, but not 105 dollars!!!
Maynards gives customers a bad taste in their mouths....All I can say is Shop Around!!!!

Replacement was easy
 

Hello guys, in reference to the water outlet housing/jacket. I bought it in Louisiana for $116 plus tax $127. It was very easy to instal. I would suggest that you get a old fashion clamp that screws on for the big hose. I loosened the intake and raised the end just enough for the swivel socket to do its job. The entire process took less than 30 minutes. I didnt want to take a chance with repairing the old on. Good luck on your cars. Thanks for all the information you guys posted.

I just replaced mine on my '01 2.7 L convertible. To remove the old one, I used a wrench I bought at Lowe's, it has an open end wrench on one end and a swivel ratcheting box wrench on the other. I think they call it a "gear wrench" or something like that. 8 mm size. It helps to remove the MAP sensor for a little extra room to swing the wrench. The other three bolts come out easy.
I bought the part at a dealer for $78 including the temp sensor, but I have since seen them listed at Autozone for less than $20 not including the sensor. I'll try there next time.

Failed Coolant Outlet Manifold
 

This forum is a great resource! I've been lurking for a while, and just signed up.

Last February I purchased a 2002 Sebring Limited Convertible on eBay from LA. My wife and I flew across the country to pick it up beginning a 50-day road trip. We drove the car about 6500 miles in a round about road trip back to Vermont. We had no problems other than a weak heater and a burnt out headlamp. The car was great fun!

When we got back to Vermont, I took it to the dealer for state inspection, etc. They found that the coolant was low, topped it off and replaced the radiator cap (among other things, totaling around $1000).

Since then we've hardly driven it (not much top-down weather in Vermont this summer). However, my wife took it out a couple of days ago as her car was showing a dash diagnostic (since corrected). On the way home she was greeted with a plume of steam and a loud "POP" from under the hood. The temp gauge immediately dropped from near hot to cold. Since she was close to home, she drove the rest of the way.

When she arrived, I checked under the hood and discovered the "coolant outlet manifold" had separated at the glue seam. [A glued plastic part in the cooling system!! what were they thinking??] I called the dealer since the car was still on an extended drive train warranty. After a lengthy discussion with the service writer and the parts department, they determined that the coolant manifold (part 4792639AA) though seemingly part of the engine, is not covered by the drive train warranty. Replacing the part ($107+tax) was estimated at something over $400 (including towing, I think).

So I did some online research and found the most valuable information in this forum. [Thanks!!] Although I noted that some folks indicated the intention of using JB Weld to put the parts back together, I could not find whether or not this was successful or long lasting. Nonetheless, I tried it. I scraped out the old glue, roughed up the services with steel wool, vacuumed the dust, cleaned with acetone (my wife's nail polish remover) and dried it with her hair dryer. I put on a thin coat of JB Weld, pressed the parts together and put a brick on top for about 6 hours. The next morning, after topping off the coolant, I started it up. No leaks. I let it run with the heater on until the cooling fan cycled on and off several times. I turned on the A/C to put a light load on the engine and raise the temp a bit (it came up to about 3/8, normal light load operating temp, I suspect).

I was unable to bleed the air from the system using the connector on top of the manifold, but bubbles did flow into the overflow reservoir and the heater worked fine. So I took it first for a 6 mile drive, checked it again, then for a 25 mile drive. No problems or leaks, but with the top down, I thought I could detect the sweet smell of Prestone. Perhaps it was left over from the flood of coolant that collected in various engine crevices when the manifold failed. I'll keep an eye on the coolant level.

Questions: [finally!]

Should I trust the JB Welded manifold? A mechanic acquaintance suggests that it is probably stronger than the original. Or should I drive to the dealer and have them put in a new one (at $400+)? [Are the replacement units as weak as the original?]

Should I order a replacement from Rock Auto (or the like) at less than half the price? And if so, should I install it (I'm not a mechanic, but in the past, have rebuild master cylinders, and relined disk brakes, for example. I have a few tools and could purchase others if needed.) Or should I just stow the part in the trunk, just in case?

Could the failure of the manifold related to replacing the radiator cap (17 lbs)? Was the radiator cap replacement just an cheap guess at the cause of the initial coolant loss?

Should I have the cooling system pressure checked? Why do you suppose the temp gauge was showing an elevated temp *before* the manifold popped? [It is possible my wife was confused about the order of events, but she believes the gauge was just short of the "red" zone when she first noticed steam.]

Thanks for your patience in reading this far. What would you do? Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!

Roger

It could be that the glue you saw on your old part was put there as a result of a previous repair. If so, there is your answer about longevity of such a repair, but if your prep work was better, your repair may last longer. There is no glue evident on the factory part.

I can't believe they stuck you $1000 for a top up of coolant and a replacement radiator cap. The cap should be 16 psi, not 17 psi, but that shouldn't have blown the coolant outlet. It could be that the radiator cap was not in need of replacement, that the outlet was leaking instead, but the dealer should have suspected the outlet as it is a common problem on the 2.7 L engine.

Give it a few days to "cook off" any spilled coolant before you get too worried about the odor. If it persists, check further. As far as the bleed screw is concerned, it may be too late but I would advise any reader here to NEVER touch that bleed screw. It's another design error in the outlet manifold, in that the fitting the bleed screw is in is not properly anchored in the plastic of the housing, and if you try to turn the screw, the friction in the threads will overcome the plastic, resulting in the fitting spinning in the housing. In reality, there's no need to bleed air from the system as it bleeds itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles.

As for your temperature readings, the car may have begun overheating due to loss of coolant. When it finally blew, the coolant level fell below the temperature sending unit, which would make the gauge read low.

As for what to do now, if it were me, I'd keep an eye on it. I have read on other forums abot repairing this part with JB Weld successfully, so it might hold. If it shows sighns of leaking or cracking, the I'd get the tools mentioned above, buy the replacement part at Autozone and replace it myself.

Coolant manifold repair
 

Thanks for the detailed response.


>It could be that the glue you saw on your old part was put there as a result
>of a previous repair. If so, there is your answer about longevity of such a
>repair, but if your prep work was better, your repair may last longer.
>There is no glue evident on the factory part.

I'm not sure it was glue, but I scraped something out of the groove the top of the manifold.

The car had been owned by an LA lawyer and had only 25,000 miles when I picked it up 6 months ago. Service records with the vehicle were all from an LA Chrysler dealer. So I suspect that neither the owner nor the dealer would have simply glued it back together (as I have).


>I can't believe they stuck you $1000 for a top up of coolant and a
>replacement radiator cap.

I should have been clearer. The charge included other maintenance, and though higher than I might have liked, were not out of line -- especially compared to the tab I routinely pay at the Audi dealer...

>The cap should be 16 psi, not 17 psi,

That's good to know.

>but that shouldn't have blown the coolant outlet. It could be that the
>radiator cap was not in need of replacement, that the outlet was leaking
>instead, but the dealer should have suspected the outlet as it is a common
>problem on the 2.7 L engine.

After reading this and other Web forums, I'm inclined to agree.


>Give it a few days to "cook off" any spilled coolant before you get too >worried about the odor. If it persists, check further.

I drove it about 50 miles today, and the odor has gone away (for now at least). It is possible that I had put too much coolant in the reservoir. When I got home, I checked under the hood. No signs of leaks and the hot coolant was near the top of the reservoir.

> As far as the bleed screw is concerned, it may be too late but I would
>advise any reader here to NEVER touch that bleed screw.

Wow. I wish I had known that. Other online instructions tell you to turn the bleed screw 1-2 turns to bleed the system.

>It's another design error in the outlet manifold, in that the fitting the bleed
>screw is in is not properly anchored in the plastic of the housing, and if
>you try to turn the screw, the friction in the threads will overcome the
>plastic, resulting in the fitting spinning in the housing. In reality, there's no
>need to bleed air from the system as it bleeds itself after a few warm-up
>and cool-down cycles.

As you suggest, it just turned in the housing. I hope I didn't break anything. At least, it does not seem to be leaking.

>As for your temperature readings, the car may have begun overheating
>due to loss of coolant. When it finally blew, the coolant level fell below the
>temperature sending unit, which would make the gauge read low.

That is what I suspected. Fortunately, the engine seems to be fine.

>As for what to do now, if it were me, I'd keep an eye on it. I have read on >other forums abot repairing this part with JB Weld successfully, so it might >hold. If it shows sighns of leaking or cracking, the I'd get the tools
>mentioned above, buy the replacement part at Autozone and replace it
>myself.

That's what I'll do.

Thank you very much for taking the time for such a detailed analysis!

Regards,
Roger

2002 Sebring Limited Convertible (which we love!)

Great instructions!!! Thanks to ALL who has contributed.

I just replaced mine and it's actually not that difficult. The tricky part is, as others have stated, that 4th bolt that's sitting kind of under. It's definitely worth the money to buy the angled tool. You can do it without but it takes time!

For the part itself, I found the complete water housing outlet for $50 on eBay Motor. Shipping was free.
It was called a "Chrysler Sebring Coolant Air Bleeder" and was sold by a autopart store with a high and very good rating. The part looks exactly as the original part, with thermostat and all.

the thermostat is on the side of the engine not at the top.

Failed Coolant Outlet Manifold
 

The JB Weld will only hold for a short while. Since my housing blew apart and punctured a hole in my hood, the thermostat has been replaced again and now we think the water pump....:mad: I love the car but hate the motor - I think a two year old could have designed this motor better!!! I can't wait to get rid of this thing!! I can't afford it!

how about replace the water outlet housing and be done with it instead of hack jobing it.

water outlet housing
 

That was what we did the first time! I can assure you no "hack" job on this car! Just a poor quality motor design - who would design a water outlet housing that is glued together??!! Oh yeah - Chrysler.....

I dont make them I just fix them =)

I am currently in process of replacing thermostat and the temp sensor housing.
I bought my housing from Car Quest for $64. I need information on how to get to the thermostat housing and what combination of sockets/wrenches to use to get to bottom bolt of alternator.

thermostat housing it ain't
 

I bought my new water jacket housing from CarQuest for $64. I need information on what combo of wrenches/sockets that you would need to get the bottom bolt off of the alternator so I can access the thermostat housing.
Thanks:confused:

Replacing the Water Jacket housing
 

You shouldn't need to touch the alternator. I didn't on my 02. See my previous post (#7 on pg 1 of this thread). Just to note, my repair to the internal surface of the housing using JBweld, is still holding strong. Only cost me about $6 for the glue.

my little experience with water outlet housing repair and replacement
 

One day i found my engine start heating more than usual and found water outlet leaking. Also i found it will cost me $400 in nearest service to replace it, just cause original part costs 170$ and work round $180 (they said they need to take of upper intake to reach water outlet by instruction). (San Carlos, Ca)
I`m using my bicycle to take work and decided to repair it manually first.
1) I spread it by cave between upper and bottom parts with JB Weld, and in 24 hours started my engine. All was good till it came hot - i found leak from other side.
2) So i took off water outlet from engine, using one tool with angled head to access one bolt - it was not as hard, and one most problem 4th bolt was unscrewed with usual 8mm key, but it took me round 5-10 minutes (wrench turns for very small angle, after this you need to rotate it and turn for another small angle, than to rotate it once again...). I was unable to split on too part my water outlet housing with knife - as was advised by RogerLawson. So i just glued it once again by edges - and put all back - just to find next day that JB Weld putted this way leaking again.
3) Replacement part was ordered from some shop in internet for 50$ with shipping (branded as "Dorman", the only one i found in internet, and there were no in Napa shop or other parts dealers) and it was delivered in 3 days. Also i bought "Water Pump and Thermostat RTV Silicone gasket", cleaned engine side from dirt, dried with some wet napkin and put thin layer of silicon on edges. Than i connected biggest pipe to water outlet, using silicon between it, put 2 bolts into housing and placed all together carefully on it`s place. Tiered all bolts and let it dried for night (actually i had no time to test it the same day) and next day no leaking or problems. 3 times or so i checked that coolant level is low and add coolant, and now it`s stable on the same level. I used some green (50/50) coolant, that should be compatible with standard chrysler coolant.

So total cost of part replacement was $50 for Water Outlet Housing (PART# 4792630AA) + $6 for Silicone + ~ $50 for instruments (i just moved in US and had nothing before) + $8 for Coolant.

I strongly advise use JB Weld only in way described by RogerLawson or just replace part, what ever works better for you. But just gluing by side doesn`t work.

nicnac
 

I have a 2004 Sebring and the water jacket/thermostat housing unit broke in two as well, the top piece just blew off. We put on JB weld but the thing crumbled to pieces as we tried to reassemble. Consequently, we jimmied it back together but I drove it, it got hot and strated spewing white smoke fromthe exhaust, under hood and inside the car. I am buying a new piece but feel like I might ha fried the cars engine to the point of no return. It starts and it will run but for how long. This car is my baby. Its got 173, 000mls. and all I have had to replace is the starter-no joke. I need/want it to be repaired and last another year or so at least 12,000 so I can pass it on to my teenager. Does anyone have any suggestions and what is the exact name of the part we are all refering to,part # 4792630AA? I Love my Sebring!!!

You mean this?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1058926

Chrysler calls it a coolant outlet connector or coolant outlet manifold.

BTW, if you love that car so much, why are you driving it while hemorrhaging coolant?

blown
 

I would say that after that white smoke u probably have fried the engine. The head gasket has probably blown and thats why you saw white smoke.. it was the coolant getting into the cylinders. I am not the expert on the board thou so they might have a different opinion.

Hi: how does one drain the coolant todo a coolant change? I do not want to touch the bleeder valve, and the lower radiator hose clamp cannot be seen or reached. Any suggestions or tips? Also cannot see drain valve on radiator. What a car.
It is a 2006 Sebring 2.7 liter.
Thanks

There's a drain stopcock at the bottom right hand side of the radiator, but it's plastic and you'll need to be very careful with it. If you don't want to touch that then you'll have to attack the lower radiator hose from the underside.

I noticed the coolant outlet housing was leaking on my 2002 Sebring 2.7 engine. It was a slight leak, but I knew it would only get worse. I found a very good replacement through Auto Zone (online). It is a much better designed unit. It is necessary to remove the upper intake for the installation (which is not too difficult). The installation was simple once the intake was out of the way. Drain some of the coolant to prevent having it leak out when removing the coolant outlet housing (3 qts. is plenty). The cost of the outlet housing was considerably less than an OEM from Chrysler. I had it delivered for about $29 and it arrived in three days after placing the order. The replacement two-piece design seems to be a much better design. Time will tell, but I am confident it will last. I have 81,300 miles on the car.

It's not necessary to remove the intake manifold to replace the coolant outlet. Search the forums here for a how-to-do. The original part is also a two piece design, glued together. Dorman makes the replacement part sold by AutoZone and others. As the man says...time will tell if it's really better.

The housing I got through AutoZone was a TorqFlo from Compressor Works (CompressorWorks, Inc.). The improvement in design is that the upper portion of the housing is held in place by all four attaching bolts (not simply glued together). It has a seal between the two sections and it is recommended to apply RTV Permatex #22071 to that seal, which I did. The reason I believe it is necessary to remove the intake is the design makes the housing a bit larger and there is VERY little room to access the bolt under the intake.