2.7 engine thermostat housing leak 01 Sebring
#21
08-30-2009, 03:03 PM
It could be that the glue you saw on your old part was put there as a result of a previous repair. If so, there is your answer about longevity of such a repair, but if your prep work was better, your repair may last longer. There is no glue evident on the factory part.
I can't believe they stuck you $1000 for a top up of coolant and a replacement radiator cap. The cap should be 16 psi, not 17 psi, but that shouldn't have blown the coolant outlet. It could be that the radiator cap was not in need of replacement, that the outlet was leaking instead, but the dealer should have suspected the outlet as it is a common problem on the 2.7 L engine.
Give it a few days to "cook off" any spilled coolant before you get too worried about the odor. If it persists, check further. As far as the bleed screw is concerned, it may be too late but I would advise any reader here to NEVER touch that bleed screw. It's another design error in the outlet manifold, in that the fitting the bleed screw is in is not properly anchored in the plastic of the housing, and if you try to turn the screw, the friction in the threads will overcome the plastic, resulting in the fitting spinning in the housing. In reality, there's no need to bleed air from the system as it bleeds itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles.
As for your temperature readings, the car may have begun overheating due to loss of coolant. When it finally blew, the coolant level fell below the temperature sending unit, which would make the gauge read low.
As for what to do now, if it were me, I'd keep an eye on it. I have read on other forums abot repairing this part with JB Weld successfully, so it might hold. If it shows sighns of leaking or cracking, the I'd get the tools mentioned above, buy the replacement part at Autozone and replace it myself.
I can't believe they stuck you $1000 for a top up of coolant and a replacement radiator cap. The cap should be 16 psi, not 17 psi, but that shouldn't have blown the coolant outlet. It could be that the radiator cap was not in need of replacement, that the outlet was leaking instead, but the dealer should have suspected the outlet as it is a common problem on the 2.7 L engine.
Give it a few days to "cook off" any spilled coolant before you get too worried about the odor. If it persists, check further. As far as the bleed screw is concerned, it may be too late but I would advise any reader here to NEVER touch that bleed screw. It's another design error in the outlet manifold, in that the fitting the bleed screw is in is not properly anchored in the plastic of the housing, and if you try to turn the screw, the friction in the threads will overcome the plastic, resulting in the fitting spinning in the housing. In reality, there's no need to bleed air from the system as it bleeds itself after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles.
As for your temperature readings, the car may have begun overheating due to loss of coolant. When it finally blew, the coolant level fell below the temperature sending unit, which would make the gauge read low.
As for what to do now, if it were me, I'd keep an eye on it. I have read on other forums abot repairing this part with JB Weld successfully, so it might hold. If it shows sighns of leaking or cracking, the I'd get the tools mentioned above, buy the replacement part at Autozone and replace it myself.
#22
08-31-2009, 06:48 PM
Coolant manifold repair
Thanks for the detailed response.
>It could be that the glue you saw on your old part was put there as a result
>of a previous repair. If so, there is your answer about longevity of such a
>repair, but if your prep work was better, your repair may last longer.
>There is no glue evident on the factory part.
I'm not sure it was glue, but I scraped something out of the groove the top of the manifold.
The car had been owned by an LA lawyer and had only 25,000 miles when I picked it up 6 months ago. Service records with the vehicle were all from an LA Chrysler dealer. So I suspect that neither the owner nor the dealer would have simply glued it back together (as I have).
>I can't believe they stuck you $1000 for a top up of coolant and a
>replacement radiator cap.
I should have been clearer. The charge included other maintenance, and though higher than I might have liked, were not out of line -- especially compared to the tab I routinely pay at the Audi dealer...
>The cap should be 16 psi, not 17 psi,
That's good to know.
>but that shouldn't have blown the coolant outlet. It could be that the
>radiator cap was not in need of replacement, that the outlet was leaking
>instead, but the dealer should have suspected the outlet as it is a common
>problem on the 2.7 L engine.
After reading this and other Web forums, I'm inclined to agree.
>Give it a few days to "cook off" any spilled coolant before you get too >worried about the odor. If it persists, check further.
I drove it about 50 miles today, and the odor has gone away (for now at least). It is possible that I had put too much coolant in the reservoir. When I got home, I checked under the hood. No signs of leaks and the hot coolant was near the top of the reservoir.
> As far as the bleed screw is concerned, it may be too late but I would
>advise any reader here to NEVER touch that bleed screw.
Wow. I wish I had known that. Other online instructions tell you to turn the bleed screw 1-2 turns to bleed the system.
>It's another design error in the outlet manifold, in that the fitting the bleed
>screw is in is not properly anchored in the plastic of the housing, and if
>you try to turn the screw, the friction in the threads will overcome the
>plastic, resulting in the fitting spinning in the housing. In reality, there's no
>need to bleed air from the system as it bleeds itself after a few warm-up
>and cool-down cycles.
As you suggest, it just turned in the housing. I hope I didn't break anything. At least, it does not seem to be leaking.
>As for your temperature readings, the car may have begun overheating
>due to loss of coolant. When it finally blew, the coolant level fell below the
>temperature sending unit, which would make the gauge read low.
That is what I suspected. Fortunately, the engine seems to be fine.
>As for what to do now, if it were me, I'd keep an eye on it. I have read on >other forums abot repairing this part with JB Weld successfully, so it might >hold. If it shows sighns of leaking or cracking, the I'd get the tools
>mentioned above, buy the replacement part at Autozone and replace it
>myself.
That's what I'll do.
Thank you very much for taking the time for such a detailed analysis!
Regards,
Roger
2002 Sebring Limited Convertible (which we love!)
>It could be that the glue you saw on your old part was put there as a result
>of a previous repair. If so, there is your answer about longevity of such a
>repair, but if your prep work was better, your repair may last longer.
>There is no glue evident on the factory part.
I'm not sure it was glue, but I scraped something out of the groove the top of the manifold.
The car had been owned by an LA lawyer and had only 25,000 miles when I picked it up 6 months ago. Service records with the vehicle were all from an LA Chrysler dealer. So I suspect that neither the owner nor the dealer would have simply glued it back together (as I have).
>I can't believe they stuck you $1000 for a top up of coolant and a
>replacement radiator cap.
I should have been clearer. The charge included other maintenance, and though higher than I might have liked, were not out of line -- especially compared to the tab I routinely pay at the Audi dealer...
>The cap should be 16 psi, not 17 psi,
That's good to know.
>but that shouldn't have blown the coolant outlet. It could be that the
>radiator cap was not in need of replacement, that the outlet was leaking
>instead, but the dealer should have suspected the outlet as it is a common
>problem on the 2.7 L engine.
After reading this and other Web forums, I'm inclined to agree.
>Give it a few days to "cook off" any spilled coolant before you get too >worried about the odor. If it persists, check further.
I drove it about 50 miles today, and the odor has gone away (for now at least). It is possible that I had put too much coolant in the reservoir. When I got home, I checked under the hood. No signs of leaks and the hot coolant was near the top of the reservoir.
> As far as the bleed screw is concerned, it may be too late but I would
>advise any reader here to NEVER touch that bleed screw.
Wow. I wish I had known that. Other online instructions tell you to turn the bleed screw 1-2 turns to bleed the system.
>It's another design error in the outlet manifold, in that the fitting the bleed
>screw is in is not properly anchored in the plastic of the housing, and if
>you try to turn the screw, the friction in the threads will overcome the
>plastic, resulting in the fitting spinning in the housing. In reality, there's no
>need to bleed air from the system as it bleeds itself after a few warm-up
>and cool-down cycles.
As you suggest, it just turned in the housing. I hope I didn't break anything. At least, it does not seem to be leaking.
>As for your temperature readings, the car may have begun overheating
>due to loss of coolant. When it finally blew, the coolant level fell below the
>temperature sending unit, which would make the gauge read low.
That is what I suspected. Fortunately, the engine seems to be fine.
>As for what to do now, if it were me, I'd keep an eye on it. I have read on >other forums abot repairing this part with JB Weld successfully, so it might >hold. If it shows sighns of leaking or cracking, the I'd get the tools
>mentioned above, buy the replacement part at Autozone and replace it
>myself.
That's what I'll do.
Thank you very much for taking the time for such a detailed analysis!
Regards,
Roger
2002 Sebring Limited Convertible (which we love!)
#23
09-19-2009, 05:31 PM
Great instructions!!! Thanks to ALL who has contributed.
I just replaced mine and it's actually not that difficult. The tricky part is, as others have stated, that 4th bolt that's sitting kind of under. It's definitely worth the money to buy the angled tool. You can do it without but it takes time!
For the part itself, I found the complete water housing outlet for $50 on eBay Motor. Shipping was free.
It was called a "Chrysler Sebring Coolant Air Bleeder" and was sold by a autopart store with a high and very good rating. The part looks exactly as the original part, with thermostat and all.
I just replaced mine and it's actually not that difficult. The tricky part is, as others have stated, that 4th bolt that's sitting kind of under. It's definitely worth the money to buy the angled tool. You can do it without but it takes time!
For the part itself, I found the complete water housing outlet for $50 on eBay Motor. Shipping was free.
It was called a "Chrysler Sebring Coolant Air Bleeder" and was sold by a autopart store with a high and very good rating. The part looks exactly as the original part, with thermostat and all.
#25
09-23-2009, 01:12 PM
Failed Coolant Outlet Manifold
The JB Weld will only hold for a short while. Since my housing blew apart and punctured a hole in my hood, the thermostat has been replaced again and now we think the water pump....
I love the car but hate the motor - I think a two year old could have designed this motor better!!! I can't wait to get rid of this thing!! I can't afford it!
I love the car but hate the motor - I think a two year old could have designed this motor better!!! I can't wait to get rid of this thing!! I can't afford it!
#27
09-24-2009, 06:53 AM
water outlet housing
That was what we did the first time! I can assure you no "hack" job on this car! Just a poor quality motor design - who would design a water outlet housing that is glued together??!! Oh yeah - Chrysler.....
#29
06-05-2010, 08:58 PM
I am currently in process of replacing thermostat and the temp sensor housing.
I bought my housing from Car Quest for $64. I need information on how to get to the thermostat housing and what combination of sockets/wrenches to use to get to bottom bolt of alternator.
I bought my housing from Car Quest for $64. I need information on how to get to the thermostat housing and what combination of sockets/wrenches to use to get to bottom bolt of alternator.
#30
06-05-2010, 09:01 PM
thermostat housing it ain't
I bought my new water jacket housing from CarQuest for $64. I need information on what combo of wrenches/sockets that you would need to get the bottom bolt off of the alternator so I can access the thermostat housing.
Thanks
Thanks