It sounds like you are saying the fans come on when the temperature gauge reaches the same point regardless of the antifreeze mixture. That's how it should be. Neither the temp sensor nor the thermostat know or care what mixture is in there. They can only react to temperature. The temperature of the system is controlled by the thermostat which begins to open at about 88° to 93°C (192° to 199°F) and should be fully open at about 104°C (220°F). Even if the system contains excess water, boiling will be reduced by the combined presence of the antifreeze that is there and the pressure cap.
Nothing you have described makes me suspicious of the antifreeze mixture, the thermostat or the fans.
You might want to make a good visual inspection of the radiator to be sure that the front of it is not blocked up with leaves and bugs to an excessive degree. That's just good maintenance which you should do anyway.

 

Thank you for you help dcotter.
Now that everything woks fine, I am not afraid to go for a couple of days on a long trip.

 

Hi all I was able to get this part at Carquest for $64.00 it comes with the sensor and gasket.
You will need a set of Metric swivel sockets to reach back bolt I found it easiest to remove intake and just raise it up a bit to clear access to hidden bolt also made it easier to install new part.
I live in House Springs Mo. Just outside of St. Louis
Dennis

 

Okaaaay:

Here's the tool you need:

WRENCHES > Ratcheting > Flex Combination > | GearWrench™

8 mm size, available at Lowe's for about $8.00


Here's the part:

Compressor Works/Water Outlet (815636) | 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 6 Cylinders U 2.7L SFI DOHC | AutoZone.com

With this tool, it is NOT, repeat NOT necessary to remove or disturb the upper intake manifold. It does help to remove the plug to the MAP sensor to get a little more room to swing the wrench.

 

Ok...so I was able to change the water outlet by loosening the manifold and lifting the left side by about one half inch so I could get to the "horror" screw. No problem...re...tightened manifold re-clipped wires to new sensor and put the sensor back on the manifold that I had to remove to get the wrench handle in. I re-clipped the plug.

All works well...no leaks but my check engine light is now on! Never been on before! Any ideas...is there a gasket under the manifold that I may have crimped? Re-cipped up the 2 plastic sensor plugs but no help.

Also my gas station ran out of regular just before the housing broke. Can the middle grade gas cause the check engine light to go on?

Maybe I broke a sensor wire..I don't think I did but I guess it's possible. Help!

 

First find out why the check engine light is on. Many auto parts stores (except in California) will check it for free. Or borrow a code reader from a friend, or buy your own. It'll pay for itself after one or two uses. Go from there.
Mid grade fuel won't hurt the car or cause the CEL to go on.
50 years ago my neighbor who was a mechanic told me not to take apart anything unless I had to. It remains good advice.

 

That tool could save me at least 30 minutes work time, and lifting up twice the upper intake mainfold (for about 1/2 inch). Luckily, after the trip of 1500 km for the last long weekend, it all looks good.
Driving on HWY, ECO L/100 km = 7.9, using the AC 1/3 of the road.
The car has 152.000 km on board, and its a pleasure to drive.

Totally agree with you on that, however sometimes lack of information or tools make you to do more work than it is necessary.
Like, according to the Hayes book, to change the output speed sensor on Cirrus '99, 2.5 V6, you have to remove a lot of parts, including PCM, and at the end see that there is no access for your tool there. But, if you just remove the front left wheel, and the plastic cover, like as if you want to change your battery, there is a full access to change the sensor.

Thanks again dcooter.

 

thanks guys for your help. I managed to get it out and find the part by your information I was unable to find the flexible tool over here. so, i lift up the intake and it works. In my books, I never saw the name of that part, neither the picture of it. in canada at my dealer the part was 170.00$. I bought it at amazone for 40.00$ but with the express shipping (36.00) I still saved a lot.

 

First .the 8mm tool was not long enough to get the rear screw to break it's seal. I bought a swivel head and a long extension , connected it to rachet wrench and it lootened easily

Weird stuff: Wateroutlet let went on fine..filled with anti freeze..brought up t6 temp. all looked good but the check engine light came on as soon as I started it! Car ran fine...drove it a few miles.
Next day went to pick my son up about 3 miles away and when I got there carwas steaming...boiling in the expansion tank. Pep Boys right up the street..I brought it.

They checked it and said head gasket blown!

But when they put fluid back in they said the check engine light was now off!

They said I did a good job on putting on the new water outlet with new sensor.

Had the car towed home.

Noticed in the manual that comes with car it said that on the 2.7 v6 adding anti freeze was a special procedure! But not how to do it.

I figured maybe pep boys did it the right way.

I started the car and no boil over in the expansion tank. Drove the car about 10 miles so far and it's perfect. Head gaskets don't fix themselves!

It may start again...I don't know but something is strange here. I was going to sell the car for parts!

 

I thinck that's because you forgot to purge the air after your reinstalled the outlet. you have to do it a few times to get all the air out ( that's probably the special procedure that you where taking ). that's what I read about refilling the collant.