I have a 2000 Sebring Conv with a 2.5L v6 that has an intermittent no start condition.It starts and runs fine when the engine is cold..well even when its hot.The problem usually happens when I come off the exit ramp from the highway and come to a red light.Bam it dies and won't start until the engine cools for about 15 minutes or so.I plugged in my scan tool to see if any codes come up..nothing.I tested the fuel pressure and I have about 45-49 Psi..steady.I am leaning towards an Ignition coil igniter or a crank position sensor.The way its dieing when hot and then restarts and runs fine for another 20-30 minutes and dieing again...waiting 15 minutes and then fires back up makes me think this.Can anyone help me narrow this problem down without me throwing too much money into it and then same old problem.I am planning on taking the dist out and testing the igniter..is there and easier testing method?..thanks.

 

Get a price on a dist. Sounds like the car i just work on, 1998 sebring coming off the freeway and the engine stalled, and would no restart. Found out the coil was causing the problem.

 

The truth is... All of your electronic components (Crankshaft sensor, EGR valve, PDC, PCM, etc.), connectors, wires, etc. are suspect. Heat can affect each and every one of them.

Yes, the distributor is the most likely suspect, it is also one of the most expensive. I would certainly try a thorough cleaning and greasing (dielectric) of the connectors and inspection of the looms before I spent that dough.

 

Thank God for Pullapart...I pulled 2 used distributors from 2 cirrus' or stratus with the 2.5 with the same serial number as what came out.They had 5 sebrings with everyone of them missing the dist..finally I found 3 and chose the best 2.Paid just over $50 for both with cap and rotor's included.Installed one of them and drove the car for 20 miles stop and go traffic and so far so good..starts better too.The way the electronic coil is designed with epoxy you would think its heat resistant but the location of the dist..I know it gets hot to the tune of 200 degrees or so.I also cut the wiring off the donors just in case I needed it.I didn't use any dielectric grease but if I have a problem I will certainly try that.Thanks for all of you guys' help..It is alway's better two have second opinions than one,JM.

 

Chit,the damn car just died again..apparantly it isn't the distributor.Since the Pcm is located in the engine bay..I am leaning towards swapping that out.Does anyone have any TSB info on this problem?...thanks in advance.

 

Sorry, I don't do the TSB thing, but...

I still suggest a thorough, under-hood electrical contact maintainence session for you. It's nearly cost free, and can truly improve the overall electrical system performance.

Additionally I don't note anywhere in your post that you have done the Crankshaft Position Sensor. This is a part that is prone to failure in very erratic ways and rarely throws codes when it does. That would be ahead of the PCM on my list. And frankly, so would the EGR valve. A sticky one can cause both dying on slow or stop, and starting problems.