My son drives a 2002 Sebring LXi, with the 3.0 liter engine. The spark plugs need to be changed.

Well, I figured since I read reports of dealers wanting $300+ and some mechanics just laughing when asked about changing these plugs, I knew I was in for a real treat.

I'm pretty handy mechanically...I've replaced radiators, a couple of A/C compressors (gulp), and the like.

For the life of me, though, I can't figure out how to get to plugs 1, 3, and 5. I can see that the plenum will need to come off, but I can't find the rear bolts.

Can somebody please fill me in on what I need to do to finish the job? How much surgery is going to be required here? There are so many things bolted on to the plenum that I can't really tell how much has to be removed, and how much will come off with the plenum.

Thanks in advance for any replies...illustrations would be even better, but beggars can't be choosers.

Mike Beckner

 

If you go to the public library look at “all data“ It’s free and it will only cost you a little if you print from it. That is for the USA anyway.

Otherwise pay like 15.00 and get a Chilton’s or a Haynes repair book and that will give you torque specs and likley everything you need to know to do the job.
If that is a Mitsubishi engine like my 2.5 in my Chrysler then the upper plenum needs to be removed and it has like 8 bolts that bolt onto the center part of the engine and to the throttle body. remove the misc hoses and egr stuff & It's likley pretty obvious, ( make sure you replace the gasket and no need to remove the lower intake manifold).
Like I said if it's a Mitsubishi then the plugs push down intothe head a long way down. If you have a bunch of oil in there you SHOULD replace the seals (the seals are in the in the valve covers. and are sold separately). NOW would be the time to do it since you have the upper intake manifold off. Might WANNA repalce the spark plg wires at the same time isnce it probably has (over 100k mikes ) Make sure you torque the bolts like the book says or you can warp it just by improper installjust like an aluminum head on an engine these days. (It’s called sequence torque)

Good luck, it's not a hard job just make sure you use torque info.

 

Thanks, johno. What a freaking mess. I kind of thought that's the direction I'd have to be going. I'll probably go ahead and buy a Haynes manual for the car; it has 122K miles and is definitely starting to show signs of aging. Also has a power steering pump that's real squeaky at startup in the winter, and the tranny is starting to slip a bit...all upshifts when cold, and 3-4 most of the time. Downshifts are smooth. [:@]