I have a 2002 Sebring 4door Automatic with the 2.7L engine.

What happened:
I was driving, it was running perfectly fine, I pulled up in from of my house and heard a squeaking noise (not sure if that's related to the problem or not) and every now and then the belt squeals so I thought it was getting ready to do that again but then it didn't, just sounded a little different and much quieter than thant so I pulled in the driveway and stopped, listening to it I put it in park and the car quit running. Since then the car will Turn over but will not start.

What we have done:
We have replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor and the PCM. It will only fire on #1 and #4 cylinders every now and then.

I checked the fuses, all of the fuses look fine however, this is what I have found: Fuses 24 and 24 are not getting any power to them. Fuse 25 when I check with my meter seems to be going straight to ground. The relay (ASD I believe its called) gets power to 2 prongs and the one that I believe is suppose to get ground to it to turn the relay on doesn't seem to be getting ground with the switch on or off in either position.

I have been told that the ignition switch could cause this problem but I'm not sure if it would be the ignition switch or if I have a bad wire somewhere. I am curious of what someone else might think because we are running out of idea here.

Thank you to anyone that may be willing to help in anyway...

 

Did you check for codes before replacing the PCM? Why did you replace the PCM? Did you have the new PCM programmed for your car with VIN and mileage before replacing it?

It's foolish to just throw parts at a car when you don't know what's wrong. And if you must throw parts, start with the cheapest ones first.

 

First off, it's a 2.7... do yourself a big favor and take a compression test to ensure your timing chain hasn't jumped....

If it's not the timing throwing everything else off.... As stated above the PCM has to be an exact match and programmed for your vehicle...

 

I checked the codes before I did anything and the only code there was, was P1684 but I had changed radio in it the week before so I assumed that code was from having the battery disconnected then.

Compression is right around 180 on all cylinders.

The PCM was pulled from another sebring and tried by my uncle but the original one is back in the car now.

New problem is that the odometer is staying on all the time with the key out of the ignition now.

So with the original PCM back in and the electrical issues that I am having, and the compression being what it is, do you guys think that it might actually be the PCM or is there something I can check for that I'm just not thinking about? Also would the PCM make the fuse 25 go straight to ground?

 

Fuse 25 cant be going straight to ground...if it does it would blow the instant power was given in that line.

A fuse is usually put in the positve wire IE :

12V in +++++ Fuse In blade +++ Fuse Out blade++++12V out

If too many amps are pulled in the line , fuse blows to protect system from damage
If one side of a fuse has 12V going in and the other is grounded, you blow your fuse instantly...

you've either tested incorrectly or your fuse might not be a fuse at all...

Are you sure you have your original PCM back in the car ?
Disconnect your battery for 5 minutes, reconnect it and see if that resets your PCM.

You answered pretty quick on the compression issue...so I'll explain...

ANYTHING you've done BEFORE the car quit on you is irrelevant... If you took a compression test a week ago or when you bought it it doesn't mean it's the same now. You could of jumped a timing chain tooth or two and have such low compression that it simply wont start...

Basically with a problem which you describe it can be alot of things, I'll list things to check but i mean check as of now and not I did it 3 weeks ago when everything was OK....

1. cam sensor AND wiring and connector to it.
2. crankshaft sensor AND wiring and connector going to it
3. when you first turn the key on, do you hear your fuel pump pressurizing your system ?
4. Check each coil and wire going to it, one should have 12V constant, the other wire should see intermitent voltage ( PCM cuts ground to this wire or "pulses")
5. If you check #4 and you do in fact have only 2 out of 6 coils firing then the odds of 4 coils burning out at the same time are pretty rare BUT to be safe, switch a non firing coil to a position to one that fires, if that non firing coil now fires and the wiring and connectors to all coils have been verified good.... change your PCM as that controls them... make sense ??

PCM MUST be replaced with a matching PCM and programmed correctly in order to work on your vehicle... if the numbers dont match exactly, its not going to work, or if it does it wont work right and do weird things on you

 

Thank you for the response. The only hog that was done a couple weeks ago was the stereo change and I only mentioned that because of the battery code that came up when the car first quit. Since then everything I mentioned was done after the car quit running.

I checked again tonight and 25 is still goig to ground... Pull the fuse even and check from the fuse out side and it goes to ground... There is not power going to 24 or 25 so I checked the ASD relay which the relay is good but just in case I was wrong about testing it I replaced it as well... Pull the relay and test the power a d would have to wait til daylight to retest so I can give you exact terminal position but 2 of them had power to them and the one that I assumed should be a switched ground to turn the relay "on" is not getting ground to turn the relay "on" which explains the no power to the 24 and 25 fuses I would guess but doesn't explain the 25 fuse out side going to ground unless there a short somewhere in a wire I'm thinking but I'm not sure, I haven't followed all of the wiring yet.

After putting the original Pam back in we are now not getting fire to any of the cylinders and testing the wires at the coil there is no voltage to either wire but I would assume again that this is because of the fuse issue, but again I'm just guessing here at this point.

Cam sensor and crankshaft sensor have both been changed but haven't traced the wires all the way through to see if there is a short anywhere.

Compression tests were done about a half hour before I got the original replays here because I had read somewhere that could be an issue so I checked to rule that out so that why I was able to respond so quickly there and when I turn the key on I do hear the fuel pump run. We did a fuel pressure test also and get about 62 when the engine it cranking and left it sit and there was no loss of pressure after 10 mins.

I have the battery disconnected now for the night because now even with the key off and out the odometer is staying on constantly. Doors were closed with the window down do I could look in without touching anything and after an hour I looked in and the odometer was still on...

I'm sorry for repeating much of this but I am getting frustrated with myself for not being able to figure this out and it's helping me to think and hoping maybe I missed something before that someone else might catch me saying. The more I think about what I'm writing and what you have mentioned to check I'm starting to think I need to start tracing all the wires out...

Thank you for listening and helpin out, I really do appreciate it. This is the first car I've confided giving up on but I'm too stubborn to do that yet. I'm determined at this point to figure it out one way or another if it drives me to the psych ward...

 

I don't have the wiring diagram and I'm not sure of the circuits fuse 24 & 25 are on but it sounds like there's a short in the system somewhere... IF 25 goes to the PCM, you could be reading it as grounded when in fact its the pcm itself that's shorted.

I would try to obtain a wiring diagram for fuse 24 and 25 and start tracing there, seeing what its connected to and testing each item

its lucky your relay has no power as it would blow fuse 25 instantly it if did...

First step is to obtain the wiring diagram, if you post it I'll have a better understanding of how its all supposed to work.

There are some weird designs out there that on occasion has the fuse in the ground wire....as any circuit that has power, ultimately must have a ground... in these designs if too much power goes through the circuit ground wire it blows the fuse and cuts the ground , and without a ground... no power.... bad design IMOP, as the rest of the circuit and devices in it have already been exposed to an over voltage scenario and heat before its gets to the fuse in the ground wire and blows it...

 

Here is what I have for the wiring diagrams concerning fuses 24 and 25... Thanks again.

 

Looking at the wiring diagrams and your statements I believe your PCM is faulty but well test a few things...

According to your statements that you have power at your ASD relay on 2 prongs but no ground ( verify this ground with ign key off and with ign key on ) then verify wire & connection on pin 67 ( per your diagram) going into your PCM, your PCM should toggle off and on the ground for the relay making it work ( just to verify if relay works in system, take out your 2 PDC fuses and with ign key on connect a wire from this ground wire that goes to pin 67 of your PCM and connect it to ground, your relay should click and you should have power at the 2 PDC fuses this verifies relay is functioning OK)

Disconnect ADS ground wire you installed, disconnect all connectors from your 6 coils,put your 2 PDC fuses back in and reconnect your ground wire for the ADS relay... test your coil connectors , ( there should be 2 wires per coil connector, one comes from a PDC fuse and the other from your PCM, you should read 12V on one of those wires when your ign key is on and ADS coil is grounded... the other wire is your pulse wire, it toggles off the ground for your coils making them fire when grounded and not fire when not grounded, this action is controlled by your PCM) so...
when ign key on , ADS wire grounded, PDC fuses back in...
one wire on each coil should read 12V
if a helper cranks the engine over the other wire should ground off and on as the coil fires to give spark...
If you do not see the OTHER wire of the coil performing this way, your PCM needs to be changed, as per the diagram, there is nothing else connected in this circuit to perform this task and it is entirely controlled by the PCM, if it is not doing this there's a problem internally with the PCM itself.

you can get a PCM online for around $200 if you google it, the other PCM must be the correct number and also MUST be programmed for your vehicle using your VIN number and mileage or it wont work

There is a very distant, rare, remote chance ( the same chance as stumbling across an extraterrestrial riding a polar bear dressed as captain jack sparrow and singing Yankee doodle dandy while drinking whiskey ) that the problem is your ignition switch not supplying power to your PCM in order for it to function, but your statements seem to indicate otherwise ( fuel pump works, engine turns over... to me this shows the ign switch is probably OK but if you want to make sure you need a complete wiring diagram of every pin going into your PCM, find the ones from the ign switch and check them one at a time for power when the key is on...

for the age and model of the car, I suspect its the main PCM thats at fault.

 

Thank you this I for this information, I loaned my electrical test equipment to a friend for the night so I won't be able to do some of these tests until tomorrow but I will check these and see what happens. I have a feeling you are right and it's going to most likely be the PCM. I will post back after I get my equipment back and can do the test properly, thank you again for all the help.