This is my first post to this forum as a newbie. Hopefully this forum is as helpful as the jeep forum has been for my Jeep GC. I have a 2004 Sebring sedan. The rear passenger window gors up & down very slow especially when cold. Sometimes I need to push on window for it to go back up. Now the front passenger window is not working at all. It does not work from driver master switch either. Any ideas in what the problem is and how to fix as well as approx $$$ and if it is something I can do myself ?

 

I also have a 2004 SEBRING SEDAN with a similar window problem ... NONE OF THEM WORK, either from the individual switches or the master switch on the driver's side door. Blue 15 amp fuse in P4 appears to be in perfect condition. Is this the correct fuse? Is there a fuse/circuit under the hood that also controls the power windows? Today, I miss those dependable manual crankers ... they were good exercise! Any ideas/solutions? Thanks!

 

Check circuit breaker #2 in the junction block (fuse panel at end of dash.) It controls all the power windows.

 

Thanks, DC! I located a solid silver CB in plug 19 (marked 30 amp). That is the little rascal you are referring to, right? I yanked it out and visited the corner ADVANCE AUTO, where the young lad couldn't find an exact match on their aisle pegboard display. I ended up buying the one he recommended (the prongs are spaced the same) but, alas, it didn't fit nor work. Since I bent the damned thing, I was out a quick $4.27. Is there a website that can cross reference my OEM circuit breaker? Guess they are not all created equal ...

 

try here:

Chrysler Parts - Wholesale OEM Chrysler Parts - ChryslerParts.net

 

DC ... I found it on AUTO ZONE's website (BUSSMANN BP-CBB-30-RP). $3.29 plus Indiana's 7% sales tax. I'm heading out the door right now and will report back.

UPDATE: Fit in the cavity OK (silver body was smaller and prongs were shorter though), but the windows still don't work. Any other suggestions, DC? Should I pop for the OEM spec part or head for my mechanic? Thanks!

 

b4 u start replacing stuff get a wire diagram and then check for power and ground at the master window switch

 

I guess "check" means "replace" when it's less than four bucks. I would too.

 

How do you "check" a solid metal circuit breaker for failure? It has no visible filaments like a transparent plastic fuse. Hey, I'm just a dumb old fart with raging hemorrhoids. I'm hoping to avoid a trip to my mechanic so I can save money. Preparation H by the 5 gallon pail is darn expensive! So ... how do I fix my power windows before Saturday (it will be 80 degrees here in South Bend)?!?

 

It's may be time to start tracking down wires and seeing where the problem lies. There's a huge bundle of wires that goes into the driver's door. Because of the opening and closing of the door, on rare occasions a wire will break from the little bit of flexing that can occur to the wires. Like Tech said, it may be time to break out the volt-ohmmeter and wiring diagram to see where the power fails. That kind of work isn't rocket science, but it's tedious and time consuming. You can pay somebody to do it, but you may be able to do it yourself.
BTW, to check the circuit breaker, just check the resistance across the terminals. It should be essentially zero. If the circuit is open, then the circuit breaker is bad and must be replaced. Remember how a circuit breaker works, essentially just like a fuse, but one that can re-set itself.
80 degrees sounds great right now. It's cold, crappy and rainy here in Detroit. You didn't mention the A/C not working so ther's always that alternative.