It will always take longer for an engine at idle to warm up compared to an engine that is working hard pushing a car around. If it continues to take a long time to warm up even when you are driving around, then the thermostat may be stuck open. This has nothing to do with the symptoms you were previously describing in your earlier posts.

Don't know why both fans are coming on at the same time. They shouldn't do that. Maybe somebody mis-wired them in the past.

Don't know why the spitting has stopped unless there was air in the system that has finally worked its way out.

No combustion gas in the coolant is a good thing.

You previously said you replaced the radiator cap. Take a good close look at the gasket on your cap and also the surface on the tank that the gasket mates to. Make sure you have a good seal there. If the cap isn't sealing properly due to a damaged gasket or sealing surface, you will get bubbling in the tank. It's worth a look and won't cost anything.

 

well it spit again and smoked too...coolant is coming out of that small hole on back of tank...

I patiently checked twice with temp gauge...

when thermostat suppose to open there should be lower temp for at least couple of minutes but there was no change in temp at all...it slowly went all the way to 230 degree and both fans started ...than it reduces the temp..

can you tell me which fan is low fan and which one is high?

If the low fan was coming on when it should be ...coolant might not overflow...

Even though I insisted tech school did not replace thermostat and I think that is the problem.

Because in this car thermostat is kinda difficult to get to...is there any sure way to check if thermostat is good or not?

 

Try replacing the low-speed fan relay. The way I read the wiring diagrams, it looks like the low-speed fan motor can be energized from the high-speed fan relay. The system may be designed to energize both fans from the high-speed side in the event that the low-speed fan relay fails. That might generate a fault code but it could take a very sophisticated code reader to get to it.

The only real way to test the thermostat is to pull it out as I previously posted. You should see a rapid rise in temperature at the radiator top hose when the thermostat opens as hot coolant from the engine will start to flow to the radiator when that occurs.

 

I checked with instructor at tech school and he said reason why he did not change thermostat because they checked at bench and it was working properly. And I believe him.
So only thing left now is head gasket...or cracked head..


I am not in position to replace head gasket ...so wondering what would you choose between bluedevil or bars leak head gasket fix ...or something else?

 

Don't waste your money. Chances are it's not going to work and worse yet it can clog your cooling system. I know from experience. Since you said that you did a combustion test and there were no gasses in your overflow tank why do you think it's a head gasket? Do a compression test so you know for sure. Did you ever check for a clogged radiator? Do the easy tests first before you suspect a bad head gasket.

John

 

I would agree with JOPIZZ, and advise against any type sealant additive.
A previous owner had done that to my 2.7 at some point...and after having the water pump replaced (not associated with the sealant), repeated flushings and refills...thermostat replacement... the DEALER's mechanic decided to check the radiator and found it was plugged solid with additive residue.

The water pump/overheating issue job that should have been at most a couple of days in the shop, ended up taking almost a month for the chrysler certified mechanic to resolve.

 

How do we check for clogged radiator without removing it from the car?

 

https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-know-...lating-coolant

 

What should be temperature difference between upper and lower radiator hoses ? in my case ..using infrared temp gun ...I see upper hose about 200 degree and at that time 160 at lower hose..is this normal? also at about 195 degree there should be a drop in temp because thermostat is opening and allowing colder coolant to go to engine? in my case when I check with obd 2 connector...I don't see any drop in temp until it reaches to 230 when fans comes on...

 

The OBD connector can read the temperature at only one point, where the ECT sensor is. If you want to see the temperature at a particular spot, you have to read it there. If you are getting a 40º temperature across the radiator then it is definitely doing its job. It's not plugged. It also means that coolant is flowing through there. If the thermostat were stuck closed, you wouldn't have flow.

Have you done any of the other things that have been recommended?