2006 Sebring 2.7L v6 radiator fan does not come on
#1
06-12-2017, 12:41 AM
2006 Sebring 2.7L v6 radiator fan does not come on
2006 sebring 2.7L v6
Coolant is overflowing but car does not overheat...
I also noticed that until it reaches 206 degree F the fan does not come on..
At what temp. the fan comes on?
I changed 40 amp radiator fuse and also changed both low and hi fan relay.
I also changed bleeder assembly which includes new coolant temp sensor (thinking that sensor could be bad) but no change...yes I did bleed the system..(not sure if I did it correctly)
the way it idles I don't think its head gasket leak...
I checked upper and lower radiator hose ..they both are same hot...so I believe its not thermostat that is closed...
When I turn on AC ...both fans come on ...
Could it be possible that relay to fan circuit could be bad ?
how do I check this circuit?
What else could be possible reason?
Coolant is overflowing but car does not overheat...
I also noticed that until it reaches 206 degree F the fan does not come on..
At what temp. the fan comes on?
I changed 40 amp radiator fuse and also changed both low and hi fan relay.
I also changed bleeder assembly which includes new coolant temp sensor (thinking that sensor could be bad) but no change...yes I did bleed the system..(not sure if I did it correctly)
the way it idles I don't think its head gasket leak...
I checked upper and lower radiator hose ..they both are same hot...so I believe its not thermostat that is closed...
When I turn on AC ...both fans come on ...
Could it be possible that relay to fan circuit could be bad ?
how do I check this circuit?
What else could be possible reason?
#2
06-12-2017, 09:55 AM
With the 2.7 L engine, the low speed fan will not come on until the coolant temperature reaches 220º F. At 230º F the high speed fan comes on.
With the A/C on, those temperatures are 210º and 230º.
Upper and lower radiator hoses should not be the same temperature. The purpose of the radiator is to lose heat to the air that flows through it. The upper hose should be a bit warmer. Make sure that the front of the radiator is not plugged with leaves, debris, etc.
If I were you, I would not bleed air using the bleed screw. Normal driving will bleed air over a few warm-up and cool-down cycles. Top up the coolant as needed.
I suspect that you still have some air in the system which is expanding and causing the over flowing. That should work it's way out eventually with normal driving.
If the overflowing continues, run a compression check on the engine to positively rule out head gasket issues.
Make sure you have the proper mixture of antifreeze and water in the system. The owners manual will describe the proper mixture. You can download an owners manual from chrysler.com.
If the fans are coming on then the relay can't be bad.
Make sure your pressure cap is working properly. It's probably cheaper to replace it than to have it tested. You want a 15 psi cap.
With the A/C on, those temperatures are 210º and 230º.
Upper and lower radiator hoses should not be the same temperature. The purpose of the radiator is to lose heat to the air that flows through it. The upper hose should be a bit warmer. Make sure that the front of the radiator is not plugged with leaves, debris, etc.
If I were you, I would not bleed air using the bleed screw. Normal driving will bleed air over a few warm-up and cool-down cycles. Top up the coolant as needed.
I suspect that you still have some air in the system which is expanding and causing the over flowing. That should work it's way out eventually with normal driving.
If the overflowing continues, run a compression check on the engine to positively rule out head gasket issues.
Make sure you have the proper mixture of antifreeze and water in the system. The owners manual will describe the proper mixture. You can download an owners manual from chrysler.com.
If the fans are coming on then the relay can't be bad.
Make sure your pressure cap is working properly. It's probably cheaper to replace it than to have it tested. You want a 15 psi cap.
#3
06-12-2017, 12:43 PM
I will check hoses again ...I think you are right upper was little warmer...but will double check...
Thanks for giving me correct temp for fan to come on ...actually I have not waited for car to reach to that temp....because coolant comes out with steam from tank...highest I have looked is 206°
I have already replaced cap ...it did not solve.
You said with normal driving air will burp out...so until it does should I top up with distilled water? is there any sure way to say there is air in system?
Do you think it could be clogged radiator that is blocking flow? can it be partially bad water pump?
How do make sure its not head gasket and how do I make sure its not partially closed thermostat?
Thanks for giving me correct temp for fan to come on ...actually I have not waited for car to reach to that temp....because coolant comes out with steam from tank...highest I have looked is 206°
I have already replaced cap ...it did not solve.
You said with normal driving air will burp out...so until it does should I top up with distilled water? is there any sure way to say there is air in system?
Do you think it could be clogged radiator that is blocking flow? can it be partially bad water pump?
How do make sure its not head gasket and how do I make sure its not partially closed thermostat?
#4
06-12-2017, 03:44 PM
You should top up with the proper mixture of water and antifreeze that the car requires. Topping up with distilled water will dilute the antifreeze. I am assuming you filled with the proper mixture in the first place. If you did not use the proper mixture that could be part of the problem.
A radiator can be clogged internally (impairing water flow) or externally (blocking air flow). Both can result in overheating. You have said that the car is not overheating.
A water pump is a fairly simple device. As far as pumping water is concerned, it either does or it doesn't. The usual mode of failure for a water pump is a failure of the shaft seal resulting in a leak. It will still pump water. If the shaft breaks the pump won't pump water but that failure would be immediately apparent.
The best way to rule out a head gasket problem is with a compression check.
A partially closed thermostat would also result in overheating. If you want to check the thermostat, you must remove it, put it in a pan of water on the stove and heat it up until it opens, noting the temperature when it starts to open and seeing that it fully opens. Removal of the thermostat on the 2.7L engine is not simple. It's located under/behind the alternator and is hard to get to.
A radiator can be clogged internally (impairing water flow) or externally (blocking air flow). Both can result in overheating. You have said that the car is not overheating.
A water pump is a fairly simple device. As far as pumping water is concerned, it either does or it doesn't. The usual mode of failure for a water pump is a failure of the shaft seal resulting in a leak. It will still pump water. If the shaft breaks the pump won't pump water but that failure would be immediately apparent.
The best way to rule out a head gasket problem is with a compression check.
A partially closed thermostat would also result in overheating. If you want to check the thermostat, you must remove it, put it in a pan of water on the stove and heat it up until it opens, noting the temperature when it starts to open and seeing that it fully opens. Removal of the thermostat on the 2.7L engine is not simple. It's located under/behind the alternator and is hard to get to.
#5
06-12-2017, 05:58 PM
Thanks again...
Yes I top up distilled water ...will change that ..If I am not wrong more water ...lowers boiling point so that can cause overflow
1. Since it is not overheating can we rule out radiator?
2. I believe there is some leak under the car ...most likely its because of water pump ...but since heater is working fine and car does not overheat can we rule out water pump be the reason for overflowing through tank? ( I understand if its leaking from water pump ...its a separate issue to be fixed)
3.Again since its not overheating and heater inside the car is working well...also if upper hose slightly more in temp than lower ...can we rule out thermostat as well??
Now only possibility left is air in system ? please note that even before I used water to top off ...it was overflowing from tank
Yes I top up distilled water ...will change that ..If I am not wrong more water ...lowers boiling point so that can cause overflow
1. Since it is not overheating can we rule out radiator?
2. I believe there is some leak under the car ...most likely its because of water pump ...but since heater is working fine and car does not overheat can we rule out water pump be the reason for overflowing through tank? ( I understand if its leaking from water pump ...its a separate issue to be fixed)
3.Again since its not overheating and heater inside the car is working well...also if upper hose slightly more in temp than lower ...can we rule out thermostat as well??
Now only possibility left is air in system ? please note that even before I used water to top off ...it was overflowing from tank
#6
06-13-2017, 10:32 AM
"I believe there is some leak under the car"
On the 2.7L engine, if the water pump leaks, it will leak into the oil pan and cause a whole host of problems there. If your oil looks like chocolate milk, then you have a water pump leak.
If you have a leak under the car of coolant, then coolant is leaking out. If coolant can leak out, then air can leak in. Track down and stop that leak ASAP. It may solve your problem.
The wrong proportion of water to antifreeze means the boiling point will be lower, and the freeze point will be higher. The proportion needs to be as specified.
On the 2.7L engine, if the water pump leaks, it will leak into the oil pan and cause a whole host of problems there. If your oil looks like chocolate milk, then you have a water pump leak.
If you have a leak under the car of coolant, then coolant is leaking out. If coolant can leak out, then air can leak in. Track down and stop that leak ASAP. It may solve your problem.
The wrong proportion of water to antifreeze means the boiling point will be lower, and the freeze point will be higher. The proportion needs to be as specified.
#7
07-29-2017, 12:04 AM
"I believe there is some leak under the car"
On the 2.7L engine, if the water pump leaks, it will leak into the oil pan and cause a whole host of problems there. If your oil looks like chocolate milk, then you have a water pump leak.
If you have a leak under the car of coolant, then coolant is leaking out. If coolant can leak out, then air can leak in. Track down and stop that leak ASAP. It may solve your problem.
The wrong proportion of water to antifreeze means the boiling point will be lower, and the freeze point will be higher. The proportion needs to be as specified.
On the 2.7L engine, if the water pump leaks, it will leak into the oil pan and cause a whole host of problems there. If your oil looks like chocolate milk, then you have a water pump leak.
If you have a leak under the car of coolant, then coolant is leaking out. If coolant can leak out, then air can leak in. Track down and stop that leak ASAP. It may solve your problem.
The wrong proportion of water to antifreeze means the boiling point will be lower, and the freeze point will be higher. The proportion needs to be as specified.
I am on my own again..and need little help..in 2.7L engine lower hose is actually upper radiator hose correct? because lower has is connected to thermostat ...and if that is correct than the bottom hose should be little warmer than top (in this case lower hose) hose correct?
In my touch feeling ..I felt bottom is colder than the top one...does that mean thermostat is partially stuck closed and does not let hot coolant pass through to get to radiator to be cooled down and go to top hose? and because this hot coolant does not go to radiator car is overflowing coolant from recovery tank ?
#9
07-29-2017, 10:03 AM
The water pump draws water from the bottom of the radiator. If it drew from the top it would suck air if the coolant was down a little. That's bad. Water flowing FROM the radiator TO the engine should be a little cooler than water flowing from the engine. The whole point of the existence of the radiator is to dump heat from the engine.
I still bet you have a leak that is allowing air into the system. Get some UV leak detector dye. Buy or borrow a "black light" (used to be all the rage at disco parties) and the leaked dye will show up under the black light.
My guess is that the leak will be at the coolant outlet manifold on top of the engine. I know you replaced it once but you also admitted that you used the bleed screw to bleed the system. Over-torqueing that bleed screw can strip out the plastic that it is set in and result in a leak. If you replace that again, don't touch the bleed screw. You can bleed out most of the air by removing the top-most heater hose. The rest will work its way out over time.
I still bet you have a leak that is allowing air into the system. Get some UV leak detector dye. Buy or borrow a "black light" (used to be all the rage at disco parties) and the leaked dye will show up under the black light.
My guess is that the leak will be at the coolant outlet manifold on top of the engine. I know you replaced it once but you also admitted that you used the bleed screw to bleed the system. Over-torqueing that bleed screw can strip out the plastic that it is set in and result in a leak. If you replace that again, don't touch the bleed screw. You can bleed out most of the air by removing the top-most heater hose. The rest will work its way out over time.
#10
07-29-2017, 12:14 PM
The water pump draws water from the bottom of the radiator. If it drew from the top it would suck air if the coolant was down a little. That's bad. Water flowing FROM the radiator TO the engine should be a little cooler than water flowing from the engine. The whole point of the existence of the radiator is to dump heat from the engine.
I still bet you have a leak that is allowing air into the system. Get some UV leak detector dye. Buy or borrow a "black light" (used to be all the rage at disco parties) and the leaked dye will show up under the black light.
My guess is that the leak will be at the coolant outlet manifold on top of the engine. I know you replaced it once but you also admitted that you used the bleed screw to bleed the system. Over-torqueing that bleed screw can strip out the plastic that it is set in and result in a leak. If you replace that again, don't touch the bleed screw. You can bleed out most of the air by removing the top-most heater hose. The rest will work its way out over time.
I still bet you have a leak that is allowing air into the system. Get some UV leak detector dye. Buy or borrow a "black light" (used to be all the rage at disco parties) and the leaked dye will show up under the black light.
My guess is that the leak will be at the coolant outlet manifold on top of the engine. I know you replaced it once but you also admitted that you used the bleed screw to bleed the system. Over-torqueing that bleed screw can strip out the plastic that it is set in and result in a leak. If you replace that again, don't touch the bleed screw. You can bleed out most of the air by removing the top-most heater hose. The rest will work its way out over time.
If bleed screw has stripped out plastic ( I was not very careful and have put teflon tape) would not I see some leak or steam ...which I don't see any...