I am ready to set fire to my car, if it doesnt get fixed
the whole thing started with my car almost running out of gas, when we refired it the engine would not run right,
just sort of wouldnt catch, just popped and dieseled, no code on it
when it sat it ran great, then after 3 days, the thing running along it did the same thing, a code flashed
we replaced the cat converter, after 3-4 more days it did the same thing, the code showed an oxygen sensor they replaced that
and clean the injectors, then last week it did it again driving along it skipped and had no power
now the code showed map sensor they also at the dealer want to replace my new autolite plat plugs and new NAPA wires
saying because theyre no OEM they wont work right, all this has cost about 1000 bucks
does anyone have any ideas, does this sound like the computer is the culprit> the fuel pressure is always good at 49 psi
also wonder why these codes are popping up the dealer said the codes indicated internal misfire, lean and MAP sensor
these are new codes on it. When we replaced the cat convertor was some type of new chip supposed to be installed?

please any ideas would be very much appreciated

 

It sounds like the engine control system. You need three things to keep an engine running.....fuel, air, and spark. You have fuel pressure....so its either spark or air. I would suspect the MAP sensor. The dealer dosnt really want to fix your car......they want you to keep coming back for service. Also, when you do a scan on an engine, its only telling you of a bad reading of a sensor...not excactly what the problem is. A scan tool points you in the right direction. If you are into reading, get a Hayes manual and read about the emission and engine control system. The $15 you spend on a manual will save you money on repair. Youll have a better understanding of your car so the machanic cant BS you.

 

yeah I agree with you, I have been pretty upset with the dealer
as they seem to be experimenting

in regards to the engine control system
do you think maybe it sounds like the computer itself
is messing up?

 

I would not go as far as to say the computer is "bad" quite yet. There are afew things you can do, if you want. First...What does the exhaust smell like (fuel rich or dry sooty smelling) next you can try unpluging the MAP sensor and see what happens. Make sure your air filter is clean. A broken car is like a big puzzle.....the poblem is right there in front of you...you just have to find it. There is nothing magical about the function of the modern automobile.

 

they are replacing the MAP sensor
as they said it was bad, the exhaust smells metalic NOT black and sooty like a car running rich would smell
have you ever heard of having to replace a chip when you
install a new cat converter>?

 

If you are moving to a high performance CAT, or if the new CAT is COMPLETELY different then the original. The CAT is only a brick of hard fiberous material formed into a waffle, with thousands of holes in it for the exhaust to pass thru. So over time, it can get clogged.

 

OK guys 12 year tech here with top level driveabllity electeral and engine experience. I can tell u the dealer is right on when saying u need to have Champion plugs and OE wires installed. The resistance value is built into the software of the PCMs when software is made. Now for your prob when did this all start to happen? what was first what code was it that flashed?? and how are u getting the codes? Second of all I cant vouch for the dealer in your area do u live in a rural area or city?? There could be a few things going on if u say have 49 psi of fuel thats good but how did u check it? Give me some more info on how it runs does it do it when cold after a while of driving more info an much as u know. I have several TSBs in front of me on the chrysler tech page. A bad cat wont be some of the times it will be all the time hummm and as for smelling the exhaust hehe not like the old days the cat will take out most of that and the pcm will retract or add fuel to make the o2s happy at 14.7 to 1 let me know.
Kevin

 

HI
thanks for the advice, well to update the dealer installed the wires and plugs
and new map sensor and all was seemingly good UNTIL last night
it did it again, this time near the dealership and it made it there, I had driven
it about 300 miles and all of a sudden when the car had been driving for maybe
1/2 hour it started to miss and hesitate (most always happens when the
tank is 1/2 full) it didnt have power to run the car at this point its also
hard to restart and another check engine light came on
all of the codes according to the dealer showed lean
and o2 sensor and finally the last time 3 codes map sensor internal
misfire and also lean again, (thats when they installed the map sensor and plugs and wires)
It was running fine up until it broke down again in traffic running 55
this is very dangerous, and I dont think the dealer is addressing the root cause and is just installing
items as bandaide solutions, they just checked the fuel pressure
with a gauge.

thanks for any help

 

also in reference to the wires and plugs I had installed new napa wires and autolite plat plugs
about 5 months ago why wouldnt the car run bad all of the time with these?

 

they just run bad with aftermarket plugs and wires just trust me with 12 years of chrysler experence. The lean code does not mean what u think it means by lean fuel. Its lean O2. I dont know if u know how chrsyler Speed density math is programed but when a code says lean or rich its not fuel that the computer is talking about. I well tell U why an O2 sensor can only read o2 not fuel so if u have an o2 that for 30 seconds or more is over the thresh hold of max value it will set the code and this has to happen 2 times. What u need to see if u have assess to a scan tool that will read to o2 sensors look at them and see what the voltage reads. High volts is low O2 low volts is high O2 follow me? What u should be looking for is vac leaks intake manafold leaks aka where u took off the plenum to replace the plugs and lines that might havecraked over time and where they were messed with upon removal. Leaks in the exaust before the O2 sensors will show high O2 as the low pressure inside pulls the air from the outside. U can check that by applying compressed air into the exhaust. PS has a compression test been performed? weak valve seals or not seating on the head all the way another air leak. Carbon on the valves bla bla bla so many different ways for air to get into the system for them to mess with the O2 readings and make the computer add or take away fuel on a bank. Adaptive memory would also show what the computer is doing to try and make the car run at 14.7 to 1.
Just some thoughts that a well trained dealer tech should know.