I have a 96 jxi. This morning went to take it for a cruise and got about a block from the house and the car stalled. Sometimes it would start for a couple of seconds or just not at all. After a bit I got it refired, got it back home, it would turn over but wouldn't stay running.
I left it alone for awhile, went and started it up. It would idle fine for a couple mins then die. Sometimes when giving it some gas while sitting there, it would rev up fine or it would go and hesitate then the rpms would raise. When it would do this the check engine light would go off then come back on. My scanner isn't working so I can't pull the codes out but when doing the key method I get 12, 7, 33, 55. I know 12 is starting test and 55 is ending test. The 7 completely throws me off (ran the test 6 times) and 33 is for the ac and is a common thing.
I replaced the MAP sensor 11 months ago, it had a stalling issue then. But it seems like that was a different scenerio. I have just recently (2000 miles ago) replaced the timing belt and waterpump.
I'm trying to figure out what would cause the stalling issue now.

 

Those codes aren't helpful, but the lack of codes may point to a problem with the fuel pressure. You may have a weak fuel pump or a clogged filter. Might also want to check the ASD relay.

 

Here's the latest info. I took the distributor cap and rotor off and cleaned them. After the reinstall, I unhooked the neg. from the battery to wipe out any codes. I then took it for an 8 mile ride with no problem. After I decided to fill the car up (had half a tank), the check engine light came back on, the car had hessitation and bucking. The gas station was only 2 blocks from the house. When I got back home I did the key method for the code and got a 24. I know this has 4 different p-codes pertaining to the TP (throttle position sensor). The car did not shut completely off on me on the way back to the house, just ran like crap intermitently.
Now since I'm getting a code for the TP, is there a way to test to see why it out of range (to low or high voltage, or why it's not in sink with the MAP) or should I just roll the dice and replace it?

 

With the appropriate scan tool, you may be able to test the TPS, but there's no repairing it, so if it's bad, you are going to have to replace it. After replacing it, you may need to have the new one properly calibrated, which will probably involve a trip to the dealer.
"Running like crap intermittently" is a possible symptom of a TPS that is sending bad data to the computer. The computer responds by being confused.

 

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