Chrysler 200 & Sebring Whether it be the sedan, coupe, or convertible, this mid-sized model offers a touch of class to every style in it's lineup

Not getting fuel

  #21  
Old 01-24-2011, 11:38 AM
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one word K I S S i still think is a fuel issue not an injector or any sensor issue more like a fuel pump lack of power to it or something in the lines. but no one listens to me to any other tech on here
 
  #22  
Old 01-25-2011, 05:13 PM
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I really appreciate your trying to help, but it seems you guys are trying to prove me a fool. The flex fuel line is not that flexible, its molded(semi hard plastic) in a certain shape to snake around several things and it's not possible to divert the open end into a jar to measure volume so reversing it puts the free end in a different location. I went to the dealer and the new dealer hose has the same check valve in it. It's not that big if deal to understand that the purpose of the check valve is to close the end of the hose only when its disconnected, NOT when it is connected to the fuel rail. If you use air tools does air come out of the hose when there is no tool connected? NO.

I removed the upper intake, and the fuel rail and the injectors and reconnected the fuel rail to the injectors and their elictrical connectors, in a drain pan so I could crank the engine and see if the injectors are firing. Only cyl 2 & 5 are spraying, sequentially. Occasionally cyl 4 & 3 spray one time. My next step is I will buy a multi-meter to check the injectors for proper resistance, check the harness from the PCM to the injectors for proper continuity, and check the signal to the injectors for frequency (ms in time). Just to start and idle it shouldn't require that much fuel pressure. I did examine the injectors for debris in the top where they attach to the rail and I did tap out some fine dirt. It did not help them to spray. If I was in a equipped shop this would be easier, but I don't have the money for that and my time is free for now. Someone suggested that the crnk sensor could be defective, causing only a few injectors to fire. I will try to find an inexpensive fuel pressure guage to monitor the fuel pressure while cranking.
 
  #23  
Old 01-27-2011, 01:21 PM
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Default fuel injectors

Hava the u thried to reverse blow out the fuel injectors. By blowing air into them or using a fine needle to remove any lodged dirt in the jets.

It looks like your getting fuel, so just replace the fuel injectors with old parts from breaker.
 
  #24  
Old 01-27-2011, 07:25 PM
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I know about the 3 requirements for internal combustion. I was a ASE Master Tech and a Toyota Master Tech and Advanced Engine Preformance Specialist, and a Smog Test & Repair Tech for 15 years.

????????

Then you should full well know that a crank sensor is NOT responsible for firing injectors. Crank sensor is an RPM signal to PCM....... Toyota, honda Chrysler and Craftsman Lawn Mowers......
 
  #25  
Old 01-28-2011, 02:51 PM
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without a crank signal the ASD would remove power to the injectors, but yea your right. Once the PCM has cam and crank signals it fires the injectors sequentialy. I think mine is tryig to but only 2 & 5 are actually spraying.
 
  #26  
Old 01-28-2011, 02:57 PM
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Update: all injectors have 12-13 ohms resistance, coils are 2-3 ohms. taking the measurment at PCM connector 1 adds about 1 ohm for the harness.
 
  #27  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:01 PM
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Here is another update, I unplugged the cam sensor and it started. What a nightmare!! Sounds like the water pump is making noise though and water poured into the reservoir drains into the oil pan. I got 3 quarts over full on the stick. Im guessing either the water or the pump took out the cam sensor.
 
  #28  
Old 02-14-2011, 08:56 PM
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Shes almost back together. I found some great prices for replacement parts in EBay. Waterpump, complete gasket set and all timing components for $300.00, the quality looks good.
 
  #29  
Old 05-28-2014, 09:38 PM
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Helping my brother work on his 01 Intrepid (over the phone, he's in another state). After changing the water pump, the car would not start. Checked compression to insure cams were timed properly (no bent valves), checked fuses, power to injectors and all wiring connections. Pump sounded like it was working when the key was turned on but still would not start. Sprayed starting fluid in the PCV hose and car tries to start. Determined there was no fuel getting to the motor. Installed new pump assembly - still no fuel. Disconnected fuel line at fuel rail - still no fuel. Disconnected at tank - good pressure. Tried to blow through fuel line at tank (still disconnected at fuel rail) and could not blow through the line. Looking in the line at the fuel rail end and there appears to be some type of check valve. Next he will have a friend try to blow through the line while he depresses the "check valve". What did yu find to be the problem with your Sebring?
 
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