Hello everybody! I am gonna give a recent repair history and then go into more detail about what my issue is.

Vehicle is 2008 Chrysler Sebring, 2.4L Vin K. 199,000 miles on the vehicle. As far as i know engine/trans are original to the vehicle.

Battery harness (to tipm/remote posts/starter, bought the OEM part)
New starter
New alternator (upgrade to 140A instead of stock 115A)
Good battery (2 years old)
Ball joints
Inner/outer tie rods
Front struts
LF, LR, RR wheel hubs replaced, RF hasnt given me any issues but will be replacing assuming other issues fixed, more on that in a bit.
Water manifold (including both thermostats - was previously leaking from seal, probably could've just got the seal but its all good)
Water pump
Recent spark plugs (20k on them, 2 years old)
Coolant temp sensor
One ignition coil to correct a misfire, no misfires from the others
New rotors/pads in front, all new drum brakes & lines to rear (done same time as wheel hubs in rear)

There's probably more that I'm not remembering offhand but it would be smaller stuff.

Previously unsolved issues with this car:
- Horn intermittently goes off, disconnected to prevent sound but pretty sure they still wanna go off all the time.
- Wipers will randomly stop (although this hasn't occurred since I replaced battery harness)
- Alarm system will randomly set itself off and won't be deactivated
- It's had a very random and infrequent stall event, it would just shut down and show me an oil pressure light, i'd go check oil, it'd be okay, typically wait a minute and it starts back up and drives fine for another 2-3 months before it would randomly happen again. Thought this was PCV related so i replaced and sealed pcv hose, seemed to get better until recently.
- Driver's window will intermittently not wanna work (although i think this is the switch in the door, otherwise unrelated to anything)

So that brings us to more recent events.

I was driving the car as normal, I don't remember if I someone turned in front of me or cut me off but I had to get on the brakes pretty hard. I felt the car die out from under me as I hit the brakes and I watched the RPM's flatline, but by the time the car came to a stop, it had kicked itself back on again and was happily purring away. I let it idle for a minute before continuing on about my day, no further issues... Until....

Went to work 2-3 days later, pulled into my parking spot and the car just died after I put it into park (I don't think it was the putting it into park that caused anything, it just chose that moment to die). Few guys at work looked at it, they said probably ignition switch, so i replaced ignition switch. During this I had the negative battery cable removed for quite some time. When I start it up afterwards, it run perfectly fine... For a day.

The last time I drove the car more than 50 feet it quit running on me 3 different times. I have a video one time where you can see the coolant temp gauge cut in and out. If you tried to start it while the coolant temp gauge was out, no crank no start. If you waited until coolant temp showed temp, it'd start right up. One time I was doing approx 45mph when it died out on me. I could literally watch the engine die, flatline, kick itself back on, run, die again, flatline, kick itself back on again, all while still moving at 40-45mph. All without me ever touching the key.

See video of coolant temp sensor going nuts: https://www.veed.io/view/9ee6c35b-bf...ingWidget=true

So, given new starting system components (starter, ignition switch, alternator, battery) I am gonna set those aside and say those are not possible issues here.

My next step is to start chasing wiring gremlins. I've already replaced one ground wire I found that was corroded, and I'm still looking for more (will fix as I Identify them).

I've been looking over the wiring diagrams via alldata and this is what I've come up with so far:

Grounds to check:
G102 - right shock tower (tipm ground but also wipers, which i havent had an issue with since replaced battery harness)
G105 - right shock tower ( horn ground but also bright lights, which again, no issues with)
G111 - left shock tower (tipm ground, but also A/c compressor solenoid, and my A/c works although it feels tired sometimes lol )
G200 - left end of dash - wcm/ignition switch ground but also cluster ground, which works until -- I feel like -- its power gets interrupted by something else,

Wires to check -
tipm Connector c1 pin 16 - pink wire - power for wcm
connecter c8 pin 13 - red - wcm power
connecter c7 pin 16 - red/grey - cluster power
connector c11 pin 4 - pink/white - ign sw out run/start

Fuses to check -
Fuse 11 / 16 - ign sw acc power
fuse 17 wcm
fuse 23 horn
fuse 33 pcm
fuse 30 - ign sw run

I also know the TIPM gives 5 volt reference to things such as coolant temp sensor as well as cam/crank position, ambient air temp sensor, oil pressure and more. I'm gonna check these wires also to see what might be going on.

Few possible concerns here:

Possibly bad/failing ground wire -- I'm leaning away from this although not dismissing it, but for pretty much every system that seems like its having issues, it shares a ground connection with an unaffected system.

Bad TIPM - I know these are known to go back in this era Chryslers in general, but shiver me timbers mateys thats an expensive part. Plus the programming? yeesh, i paid $1400 for the car, not trying to double up on a single repair.

Bad WCM - i have no other issues that woudl cause me to think the laughingly named SKREEM is malfunctioning. I removed the radio to make disassembly easier when i did the ignition switch so i could separate the module and collar/antenna from the lock cylinder and switch.

Bad PCM - if its intermittently failing im thinking this could cause it.

Other thoughts:

There is a fuse in the TIPM on this car (#29 - says Hot Car No Fuse Required) -- Am I correct in assuming this one should show voltage on a multimeter test? The pins are clearly visible with the cover removed but no voltage when on a multimeter.

If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears. Even if its for something I may have already dismissed or maybe not thought of.

Also looking for different tests I can to somehow pass/fail both the pcm and the tipm. I am suspecting a bad TIPM but i've also seen ground wires cause cars to go absolutely nuts, so not ruling anything out or jumping to any conclusions.