Transmission leak
#31
I'll take it to someone if I really can't get it done after a few more trys. I'm having fun with this.
I'm just wondering how to go about the gasket route since the Haynes repair manual doesn't instruct on this procedure. Can someone advise me on how to go about doing this, compared with the RTV sealant procedure?
I'm just wondering how to go about the gasket route since the Haynes repair manual doesn't instruct on this procedure. Can someone advise me on how to go about doing this, compared with the RTV sealant procedure?
#32
Go onto most any auto parts store site like Advance or AutoZone or O'Reilly's and drill down to a gasket for your car. They will have a picture. Like this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1197404810___
They also sell replacement pans, like this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_987324228___
It will be immediately obvious how the gasket goes in. Tighten the screws to the same specified torque and you should be fine. The torque specified for a particular screw is generally related to the size of the screw more than anything else. There's also a pretty good range of "tightness" that will still function acceptably.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1197404810___
They also sell replacement pans, like this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_987324228___
It will be immediately obvious how the gasket goes in. Tighten the screws to the same specified torque and you should be fine. The torque specified for a particular screw is generally related to the size of the screw more than anything else. There's also a pretty good range of "tightness" that will still function acceptably.
#33
Although allpar.com has gone downhill regarding tech. help, go there to see that lots of people have problems with the weeping fluid and RTV use, yet the pro techs. seem to have it nailed down. Also see lots of controversy on using gaskets.
Felpro (at AAP) makes the most robust gasket I have seen. It's packaged flat in a box and is made of a very stout material (not just rubber). I torqued mine to about 9 ft. lbs. initially, but had to snug each bolt up about 1/8 turn more a month later to eliminate a bit of weeping. Be careful not to over torque and deform the gasket. Using a torque wrench on a gasket is a bit funky....they keep compressing. Its better (IMO) to do it on the conservative side, then retighten if needed (something a pro doesn't want/need to deal with).
Chrysler makes a reuseable gasket for these trannys of metal and silicone. Most don't know about it, but it is very expensive.....$40+/-. Part #
1 05011115AA for 41te. I don't think it is cost effective.
Felpro (at AAP) makes the most robust gasket I have seen. It's packaged flat in a box and is made of a very stout material (not just rubber). I torqued mine to about 9 ft. lbs. initially, but had to snug each bolt up about 1/8 turn more a month later to eliminate a bit of weeping. Be careful not to over torque and deform the gasket. Using a torque wrench on a gasket is a bit funky....they keep compressing. Its better (IMO) to do it on the conservative side, then retighten if needed (something a pro doesn't want/need to deal with).
Chrysler makes a reuseable gasket for these trannys of metal and silicone. Most don't know about it, but it is very expensive.....$40+/-. Part #
1 05011115AA for 41te. I don't think it is cost effective.
Last edited by Treefrog; 10-20-2010 at 08:15 AM.
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