Glad to hear the sol. pack is a straight forward install. I decided to go ahead and order the sol. pack from RockAuto for $105 and will wait to get it to do this all in one shot.
Thanks

 

1) The (online) directions for the new Sol. pack says to discard the spacer that is part of the OEM set up. That the new units do not use this spacer, just the new Sol. pack and new gasket. Sounds straight forward, but just wanted to hear from those who have done it, that this fits with their experience. Also, does the gasket come off the transmission easily and in one piece? If it has to be scraped off, it would seem tricky to keep pieces of the gasket from falling into all those small openings.

2) Trans pan drain: I think read to drop one of the rear corners of the first to drain ATF (if car is level). Is that right? Any reason to want to keep car level vs. just raising the front end for the ATF fluid and filter change?

3) I just pulled the airbox to see my access to the solenoid pack and see if I could clean away any dirt my pressure wash the other day missed so it could dry out on the errand I'm off to. Actually the airbox on my 2000 is way right over the fender well. The manual says to remove the Trans. Control Module ( a 6"x6" x 1.5" unit) which is directly over the Sol. pack. I guess since the manual say so (RTFM, Dave ;o) the pack should come right up through this 3.5" x 6 " passage. I'll receive the Sol. pack in a few hours and get started.

 

I don't remember the business about a spacer for the solenoid pack. I did mine a few years ago so it could be a slight difference in the part or it could be a slight difference in my 2001 vs your 2000 or it could be my faulty memory. Following the instructions generally produces good results.
My recollection was that the gasket came off cleanly.
When I pulled the pan I'm pretty sure I had the car up on ramps. Dropping the rear of the pan still works if the car is inclined a little from the ramps. Like I said above, be prepared for a gusher. It can be a messy proposition.
On my '01, you have a lot of room to work with the air filter box out of the way. If your only access is through an opening 3.5" x 6", it'll be a bit tighter but still doable.
I pulled the output speed sensor and the cooler lines. Some people skip that part.

 

I was very bad and am doing this car's (2000 JXI) first ATF fluid change at 165,000 miles. I felt it necessary to go through the extra work because I was unwilling to leave 4 quarts of old sludge in the trans.
Here is what I did:
[keep track of how many quarts you remove through this whole process so you are guided as to how much to replace as you go]
1) Prior to dropping the trans. pan, I disconnected the input/return line from the trans. (one on left/closest to engine)
2) slid a piece 5/16" clear tubing into rubber line (goes to radiator tank/cooler) and routed down to a large drain pan.* capped off the tube open on trans. (fluid will flow out if you don't).
3) BE SURE to attach the 5/16" drain tubing SECURELY to the side of the drain pan. Initially fluid come out with pressure and the hose will flail around (mess...don't ask how I know )
4) Ran the engine until fluid flow stopped.
5) Disconnected output/ supply side tube at trans. With low air pressure (≈35 PSI first, then more when blowing air), I got only about another 1/2 quart of fluid out.
5a) bonus- Here is where I pulled and replaced the solenoid pack. There was no 'spacer' but the (3) dowel pins on my new part DID need to be tapped down to 1/8" from surface to match my OEM unit. Easy peasy.
6) Re-connected the output/supply line at trans.
7) Dropped back of pan 1st and drained pan (less of a gusher, but still messy)
8) Cleaned RTV off pan and (14) bolts. (the extra hole in the pan had me looking for a 15th bolt until I 'carefully' counted the (14) actual mounting holes on the pan.
9) Installed new Wix filter
10) Even though it sat draining over night, fluid was still contiuosly seeping over lower mounting surface. I wiped fluid away from sources as best I could, quickly wiped the final lower surface with acetone, then quickly installed the pan with the supplied rubber gasket.
11) We'll see if gasket is OK or Black RTV people get to say I told you...
12) Double checking 5/16" drain line is secured inside drain pan, I added 6 quarts of new ATF+4 (Wallymart $4.27/ qt)
13) Started engine and watched old fluid enter drain pan. I stopped engine to add more fluid, then restarted. When fluid was looking pretty red, I sat in cab w/ foot on brake and watched drain tube via a mirror (neighbor was gone ). I moved shifter between all positions. When flow stopped, I's stop engine, add more fluid, go back to cab to move shifter. I did this for maybe 3 quarts worth.
14) Reconnected return hose to trans. and secured with clamp. Replaced TCM unit and all wire connectors, then airbox. Done.
15) now I will go drive it. Maybe try to 'learn it' with the abreviated steps listed by someone on another thread.
16) Check fluid level after driving off the ramps and off to the test drive!
[note: used 13.5 quarts in flushing the 9 quart system. 2-3 less would probably have been as good.]
* I found a 5 gal drain pan at O'Reilly [highly recommended. Good $8 investment!]. Thank God I saw this. It is much wider than my tiny normal oil drain pan and which was very helpful for the gush of dropping the trans. pan. Also a big plus, I did not have to be hyper vigilant to empty the small pan every 4 quarts!!!

Ahhhhhhh... now off to work on my newly discovered A/C clutch problem.

 

How many quarts of fluid did you wind up buying/putting in there?

 

I used 13.5 quarts in the process (system holds 9 quarts). As it turns out, probably 2-3 more than I needed after fluid was looking good. I wondered if it might look 'cleaner' if I ran a few more through (which I had on hand). After the extra quarts, I realized "nope, that is what clean looks like." Hey, I saved myself a trip across town to return the unused ATF. (that's my story, ... )

PS. tks for reminding me to mention that info. I'll add it to the 'novel' above.