Ok this one has me puzzled. 06 Sebring 2.7. Had some issues with no heat. Found restricted heater core. Replaced it. Installed new t stat new bleed housing. Fresh coolant and bled system. Worked perfectly have to add a pint of coolant every 50 miles. Pressurized system to 15 lbs. held for 10 minutes only lost 2 lbs. did chemical test for head gasket. No leak. No water in oil. But still continues to lose coolant
new hoses new clamps never runs hot or overheats. Cooling fan cycles as it should. Also replaced radiator cap. Anybody have any ideas

 

You can buy coolant leak detector that you add to the coolant and then view the engine with a "black" light to find the leak.

Keep checking your oil. A small amount of coolant in the oil will sink down under the oil in the crank case and remain undetected. Eventually it will get deep enough to get picked up by the oil pump and start circulating with the oil. When that happens, the oil will start to look like chocolate milk.

In the future, don't use the bleed screw on the coolant outlet manifold to bleed air out of the system. The OEM design had the bleed screw socket molded into the plastic, and after it aged, turning the screw would also turn the socket, stripping out the plastic and causing a leak. Aftermarket replacement parts improved this by providing an ability to prevent the socket from turning by holding it with a wrench. Air will bleed out of the system naturally after a few warm-up and cool-down cycles, after which you can top up the coolant level.

Good luck.

 

Turns out I have more serious issues. I did drain the oil and check for a settled coolant. Oil was just oil,dirty but just oil
eent ahead and did an oil changed. Took it for a test drive. After about 10 miles. Oil light came on. Stopped car and check oil level, perfect started upturned for home. Oil light was on
engine locked up. Checked oil again. Still just perfect. Must off lost the oil pump. Found another motor but am debating whether to go any further. Car is in good condition just bad motor
motor I found is in a running Sebring 130k. Which brings up the question will a 2.7 from say a 300 bolt in or is it completely different

 

The 300 has its engine mounted longitudinally. The Sebring has its engine mounted transversely. I can't imagine it will just drop in.

Look for an engine close to your car in age. There was a significant change in 2004 that complicates things. Avoid an older engine.