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Chrysler 300, 300C & 300C SRT-8The flagship of the Chrysler lineup offers the driver every bit of class of any European luxury sedan, combined with the availability of the Hemi, the engine which dominated the American Muscle Car Era
Just yesterday I noticed that the power actuator on the driver's door lock isn't working. Any advice before I open it up?
I seldom lock the car because I park in the garage at home and in front of my office at work but yesterday I had a gun an the trunk so I made sure I locked it and noticed it doesn't work. No telling how long it hasn't been working.
If it works with the key and all other doors actuate then I suspect the inner door solenoid or the switch cluster. But me thinks you already know that.
If it works with the key and all other doors actuate then I suspect the inner door solenoid or the switch cluster. But me thinks you already know that.
Yes. All the other door locks work when I hit the switch on the driver's door and mechanically/manually the lock works. I took it out and there are 4 pins. There is continuity between the two brass pins and across the two silver pins, but nothing across brass to silver. I'm guessing that there should be assuming that would be measuring across the coil of the solenoid. Now that I have it out, unfortunately I can't just walk over to the parts department and put in the new one. Have to put it back together to drive for a few days until the new one arrives.No hum or any movement of any kind that it is attempting to work.
For anyone with this issue. Here's the wiring diagram
Originally Posted by tarhealcracker
Any word yet ?
Yes. The part finally arrived and I installed it today. Before I did, I compared and tested continuity across the terminals on the bad one. As I suspected, the coil on one side of the old one was burned out. Each of the two pins vertically should have continuity. So, I have diagnosed that the old actuator was bad. I proceeded to reassemble everything. What a freaking pain to get the rods reinstalled. Then, after I had it all together, it still didn't work. So, assuming then that it must have something to do with the switch on the door, and it's pretty cheap, I replaced the switch assembly as well. Same result. All the other doors operate as they should with either the keyfob and the switch on the driver's door but not the driver's door. Any suggestions before I disassemble it all again and shoot myself? I don't know if my hands can take it again.
Update: FYI, I discovered the green wire running through the boot in the door jamb was broken. That fixed it.
Last edited by CaptainBlaze; Mar 15, 2021 at 02:04 PM.
Reason: Added wiring diagram
Driver's power door lock
