I have a problem with my '06 8 cyl 300C that I'm hoping someone here can help me with. The car has 40,000 miles on it, is serviced according to schedule, and is still under factory warranty. For as long as I've owned the car it has idled rough. Numerous "fixes" by the dealer would work temporarily and then the idle would return to it's normal rough state. My wife and infant daughter were driving in car yesterday when car stalled at light. When she started car, it idled rougher than normal and cut off. She was able to get it started and into gear when at about 30mph, the car died on her. Needless to say she was scared with loss of power steering and cars scrambling to avoid hitting her. The earliest I can get into the dealer for a diagnostic check is next week. If anyone can shed any light on what could be causing this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

wow that must have been scary! especially with the children,

I wish I could help mate, but it could be a whole number of different things!

I would demand that the dealer take the vehicle now and provide you with a replacement under the warranty, as you've have problems since you bought the car and there is obviously a defect from when constructed, and you don't want it back until the problem is rectified.

Thats just me though.

Good luck

 

If the car is running that rough, it should have codes set. You can read those codes to get an idea of the problems.

To read the codes, you need to do a little process that some refer to as the "key dance". Put the key in the ignition and turn to on-off-on-off-on (don't start during this process). The EVIC will cycle through all codes that are shown. An example might be like P0300 (which means random misfire). Post up the codes and I or someone else can tell you what the problem is.

 

OK, after 4 days at the dealership getting diagnosed, I finally received a call identifying the problem as being two-fold: 1.The crank sensor and connector were bad which led to rough idle problems; and 2. The NAT (sp?) plug was leaking (between engine & tranny) causing the stall. I will let you know how it rides after I pick it up tomorrow. Fortunately, with exception of 1hr of diagnostic fee, everything else was covered under warranty. thanks

 

I wonder why it always takes the dealers so long to diagnose something when they just have to plug the computer in and read the error codes!

 

because it does not work that way. if all u had to do was hook a scanner up to it and read a code and that code was the prob then there would be no need for a shop any monkey could do the work. When u get a code most of the times the codes are simple enough and U try the first and logical thing. Take code p301 which is #1 cyl misfire. First thing u would want to do is put plugs in. Great easy fix right? ok what if the plugs dont fix it what next ? coil,wires,pcm wires to and from pcm, fuel injector, wires for that, internal engine, cly,burnt valves and so on. from a simple p301 code u ahve that large list of possible things causing it and unless u know what U are looking for and know what to test u can vary easy spend 1500 for a vary simple p301 or get some one to look at it that is trained in that subject and U could walk out with just 200 to 400 and have it done right and not guess. This is just my opinion in this matter.

Oh and one more thing most of u guys unless u know the peoples back ground at an auto parts store all that know what to do is sell u a part not fix a car. Would u trust a nurse practitioner to perform brain surgery on u would u? Even though they may have looked at u to start with? Or would u rather have the man or woman that has had the training and skills to get the job done with knowledge of the area he is working on?

 

I just hope the brain surgeon doesn't give me a lobotomy because his Brain Scanner gave the wrong code!