Oil pressure LIGHT problem. (Trouble pin pointing problem)
#1
Oil pressure LIGHT problem. (Trouble pin pointing problem)
Hello. I own a 2006 Chrysler 300. I have about 90k miles on it, and it runs great.. Well for the most part..
So about a month and a half ago, my oil pressure light popped on everytime I would come to a complete stop. I've actually had this problem about 6 months ago, which before ended up being an oil sensor problem which was fixed and taken care of. Until recently that is..
At first it would be sparadic. It would come on, then the next day (and for the next week) it wouldn't.
Still I took it to a local AAMCO and they checked my oil pressure and everything else, (basically a whole inspection) and said nothing was wrong, or at least couldn't find anything. I had oil pressure, oil was good, and the car ran great.
Anyways, time went on (about a month) and soon it came on again. Only this time, it started to be more frequent. Sometimes it would come on just when I stopped, others it would come on when I would slow down lower than 40, then go away, then come back on when I slowed down past 20.
SO, I took it to another AAMCO with the light on and they found that there was a leak in the oil switch. Well, I dropped down cash for that and fixed it, only to drive about 2 miles away from AAMCO to the light (And sound that comes on) popping up again..
I had them check EVERYTHING and they said they did everything and they can't find anything wrong.. There guess is that it's electrical and there is possibly a little glitch or something that's causing it to happen, since they said the car drives fine.
They said i'll probably have to take it to my dealer..
Has anyone heard of this problem? Because this whole thing is frustrating.. It's not the light that's bothering, its the SOUND that comes on that gets annoying. Plus I wanna know what the heck is going on!
Thanks for your time.
So about a month and a half ago, my oil pressure light popped on everytime I would come to a complete stop. I've actually had this problem about 6 months ago, which before ended up being an oil sensor problem which was fixed and taken care of. Until recently that is..
At first it would be sparadic. It would come on, then the next day (and for the next week) it wouldn't.
Still I took it to a local AAMCO and they checked my oil pressure and everything else, (basically a whole inspection) and said nothing was wrong, or at least couldn't find anything. I had oil pressure, oil was good, and the car ran great.
Anyways, time went on (about a month) and soon it came on again. Only this time, it started to be more frequent. Sometimes it would come on just when I stopped, others it would come on when I would slow down lower than 40, then go away, then come back on when I slowed down past 20.
SO, I took it to another AAMCO with the light on and they found that there was a leak in the oil switch. Well, I dropped down cash for that and fixed it, only to drive about 2 miles away from AAMCO to the light (And sound that comes on) popping up again..
I had them check EVERYTHING and they said they did everything and they can't find anything wrong.. There guess is that it's electrical and there is possibly a little glitch or something that's causing it to happen, since they said the car drives fine.
They said i'll probably have to take it to my dealer..
Has anyone heard of this problem? Because this whole thing is frustrating.. It's not the light that's bothering, its the SOUND that comes on that gets annoying. Plus I wanna know what the heck is going on!
Thanks for your time.
#3
The SLUDGE MONSTER strikes Again??????
Honestly , Ive seen a few 3.5's lately that went thru the sludge issue gumming up switches in a matter of hours, so it can happen to others besides 2.7.
What happens is the Sludged up oil deposits inside the engine make their way into the passage that feeds the oil pressure switch. When enough of them collect in the switch, it restricts the passage, so the switch only reads a fraction of the oil flow, and therefore, not enough pressure to maintain the switch contacts in the open position.
While I strongly recommend against Oil "FLUSH"... In a controlled situation (In a shop , with a competent Tech), the switch can be removed , and the sludge particles forced out under the engines own pressure. This may temporarily relieve the problem, but it is bound to recurr eventually.....
Like I said....Controlled Environment....DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME...
Honestly , Ive seen a few 3.5's lately that went thru the sludge issue gumming up switches in a matter of hours, so it can happen to others besides 2.7.
What happens is the Sludged up oil deposits inside the engine make their way into the passage that feeds the oil pressure switch. When enough of them collect in the switch, it restricts the passage, so the switch only reads a fraction of the oil flow, and therefore, not enough pressure to maintain the switch contacts in the open position.
While I strongly recommend against Oil "FLUSH"... In a controlled situation (In a shop , with a competent Tech), the switch can be removed , and the sludge particles forced out under the engines own pressure. This may temporarily relieve the problem, but it is bound to recurr eventually.....
Like I said....Controlled Environment....DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME...
#5
oil light
my oil light comes on when my car is at operating temperature and coming to a complete stop. my car runs fine there's no leaks and I don't see white smoke coming from the exhaust. What should I do? I'm hoping its just the sensor.
#7
I would suggest replacing the oil pressure sensor. It is a common enough failure to be the first course of action. I also suggest getting an OEM/Mopar sensor as I have found some of the the auto parts store varieties fail within a year.
Important note - do not overtighten, they have a tapered thread and should come with a thread sealing compound on the threads. A one-handed snug should be sufficient.
Important note - do not overtighten, they have a tapered thread and should come with a thread sealing compound on the threads. A one-handed snug should be sufficient.
#9
haven't verified 100%, but from what I've seen Momma Mopar used the same pressure switch across a bunch of engines dating back to the 90s (even 80s potentially!) until now. that switch just LOVES to do wonky things after a time. From failure to vent to gumming up to leaking internally (and eventually, externally!) it's a problem child. you get the light, it's probably the switch.
failure modes I've personally seen:
flickering to full on at idle
on after cold start, off after immediate restart
weeping, to dripping, to full blown squirting oil out of the connector
even the OE replacement switches seem to do it after a while.
failure modes I've personally seen:
flickering to full on at idle
on after cold start, off after immediate restart
weeping, to dripping, to full blown squirting oil out of the connector
even the OE replacement switches seem to do it after a while.
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