First, Since purchasing my new to me 2008 Aspen in November, the HVAC system has always had musty smell on startup. I used a disinfectant to clean the Evaporator and it solved the problem for about a month. Instead of musty, it smelled like a clean hotel room. Now the smell is back.

Second, the HVAC system blows cold when at highway speeds but is humid and warm when the vehicle is at idle. I know it's normal for AC to be warmer at idle, but the temp is abnormally warm. Compared to the 2004 Durango that we used to have, it feels like there is no AC at all. We've started revving the engine at idle, which does help.

We've had the system serviced and they added a small amount of Freon. The additional Freon helped a little bit, but not enough to make the family happy.

The local dealer said to deal with it - which to me means that we need to sell it. Is the Aspen known to have insufficient AC in temps over 90 degrees?

I've noticed the engine idles at 600 RPM, which seems low, any thoughts on getting a performance tuner to adjust the idle?

Any other suggestions?

 

my 08 works fine cold at idle or highway speeds, and it has been tested, live in indiana been 100 +.are your drains working ok .

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread but did the OP find a solution or any other recommendations? Below is what has been done and symptoms.

85 degrees + humid breezy air at idle.

Cool but not cold at 60 mph but will never get the car to 70 degrees inside.

when going 75 mph vent temps drop nearly 20 degrees and will get the car to below 65 degrees.

When rear is Off front vent temp is noticeably cooler.

Condenser fan is operating on high and low speeds(fast enough, not sure)

Replaced
Compressor x3
Condenser
Drier x7
Front Expansion
Rear Expansion


Please I have had my aspen in the shop for nearly a month to diagnose this and still no solution. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

 

amschick, did they make sure the blend door was operating correctly?

 

Blend doors are functioning correctly. Blowing both hot and cool on driver,passenger and rear.

 

One more slight symptom. Even at only 85 degrees outside the compressor will never disengage no matter the Engine speed(sitting at 2500 for 2-3 minutes makes no change). In my understanding it is never hitting 1 of 2 variables. 1 the high side is not meeting the high side limits and 2 the evap temp is never getting low enough for it to cycle off. Today with the temps at 90(30% humidity)degrees the lowest got was 56 degrees from center vent after about 15 minutes at 60 mph. After stopping in my driveway after 1 minute the center temp vent was only blowing 70 degrees and nice and humid(as if the slightly condensated evap was expelling excess moisture through the vents)

Any ideas? I'm at a total loss.

 

Your issue sounds exactly like mine, from last summer. I took my beloved Apsen in for service 9 times and it was never fixed. I tested my Apsen next to other vehicles, using a temperature probe to collect data in an effort to prove to the service "professionals" that it was broken. They repeatedly disagreed with me and told me that it was working within the range that it should, the 20 degree difference between mine and my friend's Aspen wasn't enough. According to all of their gauges and computers, it was working just fine.

I was convinced that the problem was a bad or clogged evaporator, but the dealership wouldn't replace it under the service contract. It was too risky for them. But, logic would say that if the system is pressurized properly, and the compressor and all those other components have been replaced, that the next component on the list is the evaporator. Also, hardly any water dripped from my evaporator drain as compared to other vehicles. It was a very frustrating summer.

As the temperature cooled in the fall, I decided it was time to give up. This Dodge/Chrysler owner of 20+ years is now driving a 2011 Odyssey with ice cold air. :-/

 

@michael-in-tx - Thank you for your reply, I'm at that point myself now. I haven't been dealing with the Dealer fortunately i guess. But rather a private shop that has worked on our cars for about 10 years. He has been extremely understanding but him and myself bolt don't know where to go from here. In Theory if the pressures are Correct it cant be an evap, but only one way to find out. I cant give up yet because what we owe on the car is much more then we can sell it for currently due to rolling the extended warranty into the loan. One last question, Did you ever have your compressor replaced?

 

Okay, So I need some input on this theory and I'm going to talk to my Mech tomorrow to try to find a way to test. What Micheal says is entirely true, the only think i have not replaced is my Evaps. Now we all know if an Evap is clogged it should cause Wacko pressures. However, we have to keep in mind that the Rear AC is tied into the same system that feeds the front. If, the front Evap has a restriction(enough or in a position to cause 50% or less cooling efficiency, all of the pressures would still reflect normal. In addition to this, if the front EVAP does have a restriction. Enough to react like an orfice tube it would still give you some cooling effect.The Front AC blows colder at Higher RPMS due to more High side pressure causing a slight drop in Front AC Temps. Keep in mind the Condenser was replaced due to a Blockage. This leads to 2 possible scenarios, 1 blockage spread at some point to front evap, 2 blockage was never there to begin with, only the rear expansion valve was closed due to meeting its required temp and left the high-side pressure to deal with the front EVAP Blockage.

Thoughts?

 

amschick, did you find a solution for this issue? Just curious re: what the final verdict was.

Thanks.