Chrysler Pacifica Luxury meets versatility in this mid-sized sport utility vehicle

04 stalling

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Old Feb 29, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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Default 04 stalling

i've been reading for hours and am so confused about this car...

04 awd that began to buck wildly and stall while accelerating yesterday

she filled up the gas tank and drove for around an hour, then parked it for 4-5 hours and when she left the house again it began to stall rather violently when trying to accelerate, had the codes read and i don't know the numbers but was told the only 2 codes showed the cam and crank sensors lost signal

you can drive the car fine at times then others as soon as you touch the gas pedal it will stall, and usually die

found out tonight i can put it in gear, hold the brake, tap the gas real fast to about 1/4 throttle then let off and it will die... but if i ease on the throttle it will run up to 2k rpm and stay steady

messing with the gas pedal in park has no effect, you can run it at any rpm all the way up to holding it at the rev limiter
 
Old Feb 29, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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whats so confusing? u have 2 codes start with them.
 
Old Feb 29, 2012 | 10:19 PM
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so these cars are prone to 2 sensors going out at the exact same time?

i had assumed that an underlying cause made them lose signal at the same time throwing the codes but if that is the case that multiple parts tend to fail with no prior issue or warning i guess it was my mistake in putting more faith in the product
 
Old Mar 1, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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u can do as u wish its your car If one sensor goes out it will throw the 2 codes because they are a redundant system both needs to be working to make the timing of the engine visible. If u have a good enough scanner u can see which one is really working compared to the one that is not. But if u don't replace both.
What is the comment about faith in a car? what does that have anything to do with a part failure?
 
Old Mar 1, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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it was a very bad last couple days with all 3 of our vehicles having issues at the same time...

what was ment as the faith in the product was more of a why would they make it so the average person can't work on their stuff anymore kinda deal... it just came out wrong

since they are the same part i picked up the only 1 advance had in stock and tossed it into the cam position sensor and fixed the problem, now its time to trade it off for another chevy probably
 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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well thought it was fixed... car ran great for a few hours now its worse off than it was before the new sensor
 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:10 AM
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crank sensor then as for why the avg joe can or cant work on your car is irrelevant Any one can do anything on there car. If u want some one to blame blame the federal government for having more and more restrictions on the makers forcing them to have things so complicated that only a highly trained tech can diog the cars at hand. And it still has nothing to do with having faith in a product if it breaks down or not. If u want to learn how to correctly fix your car or house or PC at home what do U do u read u learn and u improve your mind only you can do this no matter how complex or simple a subject is.
 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CHRYSLER TECH
If u want to learn how to correctly fix your car or house or PC at home what do U do u read u learn and u improve your mind only you can do this no matter how complex or simple a subject is.

i don't mean the knowledge side of working on a vehicle... i mean the needing countless scanners and special tools that cost to much for most to afford since they only take off 1 bolt on 1 type of vehicle that instead of a normal ole bolt they had to put a 57 point inverted over engineered head on it for some reason

anyway back to the problem at hand, are the crank and cam sensors the same part? since putting in a new cam sensor made things worse i snagged a 2nd to see if it was faulty and it put me back to where i started... running rough but not dieing every time its put into drive, if they are the same i have the 2nd new one i was thinking about swapping in for the crank sensor to see if that made any difference

if you are easy enough off the line you can get it up to highway speed and run it all day long, but it almost refuses to take off from a stop probably 3 outta 5 times, i put it in auto stick and noticed when i'd take off the numbers would rapidly jump, say i take off in 2nd it would bounce 2-1-2-1-2-1-2 during the stumbling then start to run normally and level off in the gear i put it in once up to a little speed
 
Old Mar 2, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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U only need one scanner the chrysler DRB if u want one its about 3500 to 5000 for one off ebay. If u want a scanner that will work for all makes and models then 4k to 10k depends on how many bells and whistles u want with it. U can not expect everything to be cheap for everyone to afford to fix there own cars. U more then likely use craftsman tools which is fine for some one that does not do this day in and day out. If i had them I would haft to make a trip everyday to SEARS to have something replaced and well I cant afford that time loss. I have Snapon Cornwell and Mac tools. A 1/4 inch swivel 5mm to 15mm snapon will run about 450 bucks u can get the same from craftsman for 30 or so. Why would I use the more expensive stuff because I am crazy right? Nope They simply are far better for what I do then a cheap set same goes with anything in any service or product. Example U have been messing with this prob for what 5 days now? With the correct tools it will make figuring out this issue much faster and more efficiently. If i was to come over 10 min later the issue would have been figured out then 30 min later with the part in hand U would be on the road. So u tell me Is your way working out better for you?
 
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