I agree it shouldnt work, but it does. My suspicion was the slight changes in engine load help vibrate bubbles free, Never said it changes the coolant flow.

Many spec from chrysler around this period were just wrong. For example the cooling fan relay has a tendency to drift after its degraded a little from age, without throwing any codes until something else breaks, such as the 4.0s upper plenum valves. And this commonly occurs well before the service spec for ot. But after any warranty period runs out.

letting the car cool down facng downhill on an incline lets bubbles stuck in the thermostat housing more easily reach the reservoir, which has the radiator cap on it, and is located in the engine bay about 14 inches behind the odometer, and not located on the radiator. .

 

Picture of 2007 chrysler pacifica 4.0 radiator cap on reservoir, at rear drvier side of engine bay.

 

[img alt="More specifically, the bubble are trapped in the heater core split, that the thermostst housing connects to, and in the metal piping that comes from the front of the motor.

Jacking the rear driver side helps these bubbles find their way to the radiator cap on the reservoir.

"]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chryslerforum.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/17374978186514340479461204377634_945f5bd7f906f6b99 b9b5ac819f87f59e04806ca.jpg[/img]
More specifically, the bubble are trapped in the heater core split, that the thermostst housing connects to, and in the metal piping that comes from the front of the motor. Jacking the rear driver side helps these bubbles find their way to the radiator cap on the reservoir.

 

I really dont care to teach you how physics works but i guess i haft to. Air in a fluid will always travel to the less dense side of the fluid. AKA will travel to a high point. Air in a fluid also has a different pressure differential then the fluid itself. Meaning a fluid coolant in the batter has a higher pressure it exerts on a surrounding area which means it pushes air towards the lower side of the pressure which is like matter aka other air sports. So if you have the back end of the car lifted up where now is the center of pressure ? It would be at the lowest point of the car which in this case would be the driver front. This center pf pressure would cause any air to flow in the opposite direction of cause center of pressure would would be to the back of the car. if you have dual air you have coolant going to the rear heater core would would be trapped in that area no place to go. If you lift any part of the car you lift the front driver side which would place any pressure at the back of the car forcing any air to the highest point which is already the over flow tank in the case. The thermostat area will not have trapped air near it because its the opening to which the coolant itself flows from the engine to the radiator so any air will instantly be sucked out heading toward the radiator and then to the over flow tank because the hose for that tank is at the upper part of the radiator where any air would travel. It does not matter where you put the radiator cap it will be the highest point on the car for a physics reason. The 3.5 engines had a bleeder screw on the upper intake to get rid of the air that it would trap up there because of the bend heading downward to the upper heater hose. The 4.0 does not have this issue. Other makes and modals will put bleeder screws in various locators because the they would be a know choke point to which air could not escape and would need to be forced out manually.

 

Well then stop trying to make up physics, and take a look at the location of the radiator cap, which i added a picture of the engine bay to display, that your unhinged rant began by claiming it was in a totally different place, 3 feet across the engine bay.

yes, jacking the rear driver side elevates the radiator cap to the higest point even higher. You were too busy concentrating on me being wrong that you confused the model year radiator cap location.

No matter how long youd like to pretend that the radiator cap is on the radiator instead of the reservoir. newsflash. IT ISNT.

Also, i did not get into discussion on the bleeder valve, i commented on the last stuck air bubbles that people could not get out.

If youre going to be condescending, at least be correct. but thats too much to expect from a chrysler tech isn't it

 

Joining this forum was a mistake.

Cant believe the first reply i got was from a moderator that tried to correct me because they had no idea where the radiator cap was .

Lmao.

You can delete my account.

Get better mods guys

"Unregretted user seconds" not achieved here due to RAPID hostile mod with misinformation and attitude.

 

SO out of all i said you only came back with where the radiator cap is located? Where its located at is not relevant. The made up physics' is still the same. The radiator cap will always be the highest point on the cooling system. Does not matter if its on the driver , passenger, left right of the radiator in the middle of the engine like in some BMWs its still the highest point so no matter what the air will flow to that point. Unless you lift the back of the car up. Take some youtube classes it might help you some.

 

Correct. Everything you said was based on your lack of knowledge about this motors coolant system.

If you work for chrysler they should fire you. Because you're the type of person that drives people to work on their own cars.

Physics is simple here, you're just misrepresenting it because you have no idea the 07 chysler pacifica 4.0 engine bay. Because most of it was discontinued.


Tell you what, when you get out of your moms basement, and get some real world experience with this model car, maybe then you'll finally be right. Until then. You're wrong, and giving chrysler techs a bad name, because this is cached in google.

 

What ever you say my man you go right ahead and do your thing. the 4.0 engine is the same as the 3.5 that has been around for a long long time. I have done more work on this engine then you have spent thinking up your crazy ways of doing things and trying to work them out to make it work.
My so called lack of knowledge can be proven vary simple. Anyone readying this jack up the rear of the car any side and see if your air bubbles come out or not. They wont because air flows up not down. and yes even south of the equator same thing lol. I have spent enough time trying to make is as simple as possible but your stuck in your own bubble which is fine does not bother me its not my car your trying to F up. I would really really love for you to try and explain how you think your way actually works? Not just just saying it works but how about make a video or a step by step and explain the process and outcome of each step. If its to much to handle I do understand trying to prove the earth is flat is also a hard thing to do but people still try and do it anyways with not really much success.

 

At some point you're going to read the whole thread leading to my comment, and figure out that I'm not and was never talking about replacing the bleed procedure. This is after the funnel and bleeder have been used, and clears out the last few tiny bubbles that get stuck.

Then you're going to realize that between telling me I'm wrong because of a radiator cap being somewhere else that you imagined. Then telling me I'm wrong because I didn't repeat everything the other people said and summarize the entire bleeding procedure that's already been completed. Then telling me I don't know physics, like the 45s and 90s in the coolant piping. Etc etc etc, that the only issues here are :
1. You don't know this motor.
2. You failed to read.
3. You're a blazing idiot that can't accept when you're wrong.