Despite possibly the worst luck ever, we still love our 07 Pacifica
 

Hello everyone!

Starting in September '18 my wife and I were looking for a vehicle to replace our severely rusted 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
We looked for a vehicle in our price range(not much) and found a lot of rust buckets, mechanic's specials, and buy two to make one deals.
Finally on March 16th we found an 07 Pacifica Touring AWD with a 4.0L and 62TE with 225K on it for a price that was a little out of our budget.
We went to go check it out.
My wife liked this modern blue Pacifica from the second she saw it.
Looking at it you would never guess it had nearly a quarter million miles on it!
I spent a while checking it all over and I was impressed that the only rust on it is the rocker panels, so there's a bargaining point.
It purred like a kitten, absolutely no ticks, squeals, or squeaks from it.
On the test drive I heard some clunking noises from more than one position in the front end(so there's another bargaining point), but my wife and I were definitely smitten by the end of the test drive.
We drove it home on the seller's plates after I explained the work it needs and threw an offer that was within my budget and he accepted. We registered it on Monday, the 18th and liked it more with every mile.
Fast forward 8 days to March 26th.
I took the Pacifica to run a quick errand.
On my way home, about 3 miles from home there was a "ding" sound and the oil pressure light came on.
Less than a minute later I could hear the distinctive sound of dry and self-destructing connecting rod bearings.
The oil pump quit.
At least two connecting rod bearings are smoked. It sounds like a hammer in a lawnmower.
So I found a used engine with 129K on it at a local junkyard for a good price with a 30 day "if it's junk, we'll get you another one" warranty, and I'm in the process of swapping it in my driveway in my spare time.
I discovered 3 transmission fluid leaks when I got the engine out. I've fixed two leaks and I'm waiting for my $47 dealer-only axle seal to arrive so I can start putting the new used engine in place.

Despite the 8 days, only put 85 miles on it, totally blown my budget, who the hell over-engineered this thing, how do I get my hand in there, skun every knuckle, rusted round exhaust nuts that no socket will fit, rounded over exhaust bolt heads, I've never known a vehicle so intimately so soon, there's no way they have to do it this way on the assembly line, working under a tarp for several days and several inches of rain, I can't believe I got the engine out through the top side with the exhaust manifolds in place, I can't believe that seal was $47, really can't believe I got the broken exhaust stud out of the new used engine, it'll be at least a week before I can afford to buy enough atf+4 to refill it after I lost all the fluid through the axle seal(and since it's already empty I should change the transmission filter and pan gasket even if it's $20 more I don't have), and finally..... the blood, sweat, and profanity... I really do love this Pacifica!!!
I hope it goes back together easier than it came apart. LOL

I'll try to post pics soon.

Rob

Hey it is going to be one hell of a vehicle when you get finished and you will know more about Pacifica's then most men in America. Yes, they can be a pain to work on (german's at DaimlerChrysler did tend to over-engineer most everything from 1998-2007). Good luck in getting your Pac back on the road!

PS-Just as an aside, a heavy clunk on the front of a Pac is often associated with worn factory installed sway bar bushings. Also take a close look at those factory rubber oil-filled factory motor mounts, they are legendary for failure.

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Here's a few pics of removing the engine, my redneck tarp garage, the empty engine bay, and the exhaust studs I was lucky enough to be able to remove with far less effort than I expected!

Thanks for the kind words and the advice!
I did thoroughly inspect the motor mounts and found them to be relatively new.
I will check out the front end when the time comes.

I'm fairly certain that I already know more about Pacificas than most mechanics. Lol

I'll post more pics and keep you updated!

Good stuff! Love the redneck shop cover, not everyone is willing to keep working thru the rain. New motor is relatively young at 135k, only maintenance the 3.5's need is the timing belt, perhaps you can find evidence that it has already been changed, else is a whole lot easier w/ the engine out of the Pac. How many hours did it take to wrestle the engine out? Keep us posted!

Thanks djetelina!
I did peek into the timing cover and the timing belt certainly didn't look old, so I went with it.

It took me a week of evenings to get the engine ready to pull out. Some of the bolts took an hour each to get out, and I spent a lot of time raising and lowering the engine to make clearance for silly things like my hands and maybe a tool. Lol
After I hooked onto the engine and unbolted the last 4 engine to transmission bolts I had left in place, it took me about two and a half hours to figure out how high to jack the transmission in order to get the engine away enough to come free.
Let's just say that the engine is 1/4" longer than the distance from the edge of the engine bay to the mounting face of the transmission, so I really had to make the planets align perfectly in order to complete this task. Lol
Then I still had to manage to get it out between the firewall and the radiator with both exhaust manifolds in place, being careful not to break any of the 4 O2 sensors, which is a trickier thing than it sounds like. Lol

Once the engine was out I started swapping the necessary appointments to the new mill.
The pulley bearings on the accessory belt tensioner was bad, so I took the complete tensioner unit off the deceased engine.
When I removed that unit from the new engine the alignment pin broke off the back of the tensioner and was stuck in the hole.
After about a half hour of drilling it with progressively larger drill bits it finally came out.
I've used a mix and match of which part was in better shape between both engines.
THANKFULLY the new engine came with a complete and totally perfect wiring harness because 90% of the electrical connectors on the original engine were held together with zip ties and/or electrical tape, due to their locking tabs being broken.
I changed the valve cover gaskets including the spark plug tube seals because I found oil in 2 of the spark plug tubes of the new engine.
I broke the dipstick tube off in the oil pan of the new engine.
Even an easy out wouldn't let me get it out(and I tried that for longer than I care to mention), all I was doing was pushing it farther into the oil pan.
Then the brain storm hit.
I took out the oil drain plug and bent a piece of wire with the right radius, stuck it down through the broken dipstick tube and out through the drain plug hole.
Then I used a straight slot screwdriver to push the broken tube into the oil pan, made a knot in the wire, and pulled the broken piece of tube out through the drain plug hole!!!
I saved $29 on an oil pan gasket with that maneuver! Lmao!
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This is the extraction of the broken dipstick tube. Where there's a will, there's a way!
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It's nice to see an engine sitting in there again!!!

The engine went into place in about an hour and I had 7 out of 10 engine to transmission bolts in place when I realized I hadn't put the A/C compressor OVER the STUDS that hold it in place.
So..... I had to take the engine away from the transmission in order to lift it up the 4" one needs in order to do so.
THEN.... I put the engine back in place AGAIN, with the A/C compressor over the studs. Lol

The biggest challenge now is what bolts go in which place, since it's been almost a month since I began tearing this thing apart.
I've been double, triple, and quadruple checking to make sure all of the various electrical connectors are plugged in.

I'm probably 80% of the way done reassembling everything,as of yesterday.

It's not coming along as quickly as I'd like, but it's getting there!

My wife insisted that I tell you that when I see other people driving their Pacificas, I scream obscenities at them because I'm jealous that they are driving their Pacificas and I am not.
LMAO!!!!

Hang in there! Yep, that AC compressor is set in there pretty tight. Hopefully you will get er up and running this week, your wife will really enjoy that vehicle, my own loves ours. We will round-trip Houston-Beaumont tomorrow for a family reunion.

Hint on those 02 sensors, if you have a Cat converter close to failing. If you have already not used this trick before, the rearmost 02 sensor can be spaced out w/ two (2) piggybacked spark plug anti-foulers to settle things down and allow the yellow "check-engine" light to stay off. (YouTube for precise directions) In Texas you can have one Monitor un-set to pass the annual emissions inspection, I was barely making that happen for several years using a scanner to allow me to duck into the inspection station at the precise time. Now engine light stays off, emissions inspection will be a breeze.

Good info to store in the memory banks, thank you!

Lucky for me, Maine went to 10% ethanol gas in lieu of emissions testing, since 90% of even newer vehicles weren't up to the set standards.

But my goal is to know as much about Pacificas as I do about Jeeps.
Let's just say that when my local O'Reilly auto needs a Jeep question answered, my phone rings.

Thanks again for the advice, and I'm glad someone is actually reading my Pacifica saga. Lol

So, ZERO progress has been made since my last post and I'm now past the 30 day replacement warranty on the new used engine.
From rescuing my oldest daughter, her fiancé, and my granddaughters and doing an impromptu in-the-middle-of-the-night-on-the-side-of-the-road front axle swap(thankfully I have a few parts Jeeps kicking around) on their 2001 Jeep XJ, to rescuing my youngest daughter in my wife's 1988 Jeep YJ when the oil pressure gauge sending unit sprang a leak and dumped 4 out of 5 quarts of oil on the ground 2 days after I changed the oil and filter, to a lawn tractor who's mower deck spindles exploded and other ridiculous occurrences.

But on the lighter side of the news, I was given a modern blue '05 Pacifica a few days ago for a parts car.
It's a 3.5L 4 speed with no reverse gear and a broken K frame, but it ran and drove forward when it was parked.
Being raised properly, I hate to look a gift horse in the mouth, but......
It's been quite a pain in my arse from the get go.
It sat for a year before the previous owner bought a new house and had it moved on a flatbed to the new house, where it sat for another 3.5 years.
Well....
The flatbed driver just winched it on and rolled it off the truck, left it in reverse but somehow got the key out of the ignition switch, cranked the parking brake to the max and there it sat.
It's physically corroded stuck in reverse and therefore won't engage the starter because of the park/neutral safety switch.
The parking brake is physically stuck fully engaged.
I had borrowed my boss's truck, trailer, and 10K lb come-along to move said parts Pacifica.
After an hour and a half I had moved my boss's Tundra and trailer backward 6 inches and moved the Pacifica forward 8 inches.....
That sumbitch isn't going anywhere.
All I really want it for is to swap from 2 row seating to 3 row seating and add heated front seats to the '07 and maybe a few other parts, but it's been a big headache so far. Lol

Then I got to reading threads here on the Chrysler forum and read something about the airbag system and recognizing the VIN from the seats to make the airbags work correctly..... :drool: ???
I guess that's not an issue for me, I still don't like the idea of the airbag coming at me at 200+mph in a crash, so I personally don't care about that issue.
Anyway...... I wake up breathing, (in my best Bill Murray voice)so I've got that going for me!

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The parts Pacifica

So, today I was able to make a bunch of progress on the ol' Pacifica!
I finished changing the engine wiring harness, installing the exhaust manifold heat shields, the coolant lines and hoses, all of the EGR and vacuum lines, had the alternator checked at my local O'Reilly store(passed the tests and produced 14.7 volts) and installed that and the serpentine belt, installed the air box, the upper radiator support, headlights, grille, and hood!

It actually resembles a Pacifica now!!! Lol

I need to put the right front knuckle and axle back in place, bolt the torque converter to the flexplate, put the exhaust Y-pipe back in, change the transmission filter, add an oil filter and oil, along with coolant and ATF+4 and I'll be ready for the initial startup!!!

It's a really good feeling to be able to take the tarp off it and to be able to look at it from the front and tell that it's a Pacifica!!!

After the initial startup, I can weld in my new rocker panels that I've had since 2 days before the oil pump went.
Then a new set of sneakers will have her to a point where she'll pass for an inspection sticker with ease!
I'm hoping to hear it purring like a kitten within a week or two, barring any more emergencies that directly effect my wallet.
I also hope to have a chance to see if I can get the parts Pacifica to roll enough to be put on and taken off a trailer so I can get it home and start stripping parts off it.
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Fingers crossed for you. No real gotcha's when doing that work on a Pac, just a lot of thankless hours to get it all done.
Hope things go well when you spin er over.

So, I just spent an hour typing in the events of the day of how I finished putting "Blue"(we're Jeep people, so we name all of our vehicles) back together and got her fired up for the first time with her new engine.
Then I opened the YouTube app to get the link for the video with this garbage iPhone, came back to my well told story and safari automatically refreshed the page and........
it was blank.f

I'm thoroughly disgusted with this iPhone right now........
Anyway.... The video makes this engine sound ten times louder than it really is, plus I stopped recording before the oil reached all of the places that were in desperate need of oil.
It really sounds great with only one lifter that makes a tiny tapping sound that I can live with!
I'm excited because now I can start to work on replacing the rocker panels!

Here's my magic moment:


Also this one after everything quieted down:

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Sweet! Would not give that lifter too much thought. My Pac w/ 321k miles has one or two lifters that get a bit rowdy in the mornings, but quiet down after a bit.
Get out there and drive that thing!

I did take Blue out to do some errands on Sunday, despite the fact that she's wearing an invalid inspection sticker.
We made roughly a 40 mile round trip that went very well!
The only thing I noticed mechanically was the roughly half second delay on the 2-3 upshift.
I had hoped that the filter and fluid change would make it snap out of it, so I'll have to do some research on that issue.
The only thing I've found about driving it that I didn't like was the sun's reflection blinding me off the chrome bezel around the shifter.
So, I performed the "OMG, stop blinding me" mod; scuff the bezel heavily with fine grit sandpaper and give it a good thick coat of satin black from a rattle can.

We'll see how well it holds up. Lol
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So, old Blue had been running and driving very well for a couple of weeks including six 70+ mile round trips to my oldest daughter's house.

On the 7th trip my wife, daughter, and granddaughters took an hour long drive to do some shopping.
At about 4pm I got a frantic call from my wife: "It's turning 6,000 rpm to go 50mph, what is wrong with this thing?"
I told her to stop somewhere safe and I'd be there as soon as I can.
After an hour and 45 minutes drive I checked the transmission fluid with my redneck 62TE dipstick and found the level to be fine.
I called AAA and they dispatched a flatbed.
4.5 hours and 3 calls to AAA later it arrived.
Finally at 1:20am we all arrived back home.

I borrowed an OBDII scanner and got several codes, including P0755
P0755 is shift solenoid B malfunction.
After much research I kept finding people saying to check resistance at the 8 wire connector.
All I have is a big square connector with roughly 20 wires in it.
The more I research, the more confused I'm getting.
Some of the diagrams I've found for the 62TE say "Pacifica only for terminals x and x"
or "this diagram for all except Pacifica", but most refer to checking terminals 4 & 8 on the 8 wire connector I cannot find.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!

Big time bummer. The automatics are the Achilles heal on the Pac. I have the factory wiring diagram from a 2004 Pac with the older 4 speed tranny, but do not have the wiring diagram for your newer 2007 6 speed, sorry.

So, after a bunch of research I found an article from a transmission service magazine that went over the 62TE solenoid pack testing and cleaning process in great detail.
One thing they said was if your transmission has 150K+ miles and is throwing solenoid codes, replace the pack regardless of how it tests out on the ohm meter.
They say that the fine metal dust from normal wear and tear can clog the orifices in the solenoids and make them function improperly despite being electrically sound.
Mine tested 0.2 ohms low on 2 solenoids(neither of them was the 2/4 solenoid I was getting a code for, and both of them were within the allowable +/- 0.3 ohms specified), the other solenoids and resistors were spot on, and my temperature sensor read an unacceptable 9,900 ohms instead of the 12K ohms specified, but wasn't throwing a code for it.
Long story short.....
My reman solenoid pack arrives tomorrow and hopefully this will be the cure.
If not, I have half a mind to push it into the middle of my yard, dump a couple gallons of gas over it and torch it.....
I've had it 4 months, driven it for less than 3 weeks, and put just under 500 miles on it.
Not to mention the fact that I have over 100 hours into it so far.
My well calculated(since I can't see into the future) budget to buy and fix this car was $1,400 including just under $600 for tires and parts.
I'm now above the $2,500 mark on the budget and the only thing I've checked off the $600 parts list is the rocker panels($115 for the pair).
It took me about 6 hours to remove the valve body cover and the valve body without lowering the entire K frame and drivetrain or unhooking any hoses or lines, so I expect it to take at least that long to put it back together.
We'll see what happens....

So, after a 25-ish mile test drive it seems that Blue has made a full recovery from her solenoid pack transplant!
In the process of removing or reinstalling the valve body and cover I apparently ripped the four small ground wires out of the ring terminal that goes to the lowest post below the battery.
This explains why nothing worked except the engine on the first start up.
I do mean nothing.
No power windows or seats, no headlights, no radio, it wouldn't come out of park, and every warning light on the dash was illuminated.
I knew instantly that it had to be a ground issue, and in about 20 minutes I had found and repaired the problem.
Everything seems to be working fine except for the still present lagging 2-3 upshift.
The 1-2 upshift is instant and super strong, as are the 3-4 4-5 and 5-6 upshifts.
But the 2-3 upshift takes nearly a full second and includes a decent rev between the releasing of one clutch and the engaging of the next, followed by a very unconvincing and mushy feeling upshift.
I am aware that the 2-3 upshift is indeed a two step process but it's supposed to occur within milliseconds.
This is very disconcerting to me and I wonder if there will be more trouble to come from this issue.
Does anyone else have a 62TE with a weird 2-3 upshift, or am I upshift creek without a paddle?
LOL

So, today Blue got a good deal of attention.

First, I drove about an hour for a great deal on an almost new set of tires. I hope to get them on some time this week.

The donor car gave up it's passenger side outer tie rod end, which was pretty simple to transplant.

I swapped driver side inner fenders because Blue's had a huge hole ground into it which makes the PCM vulnerable to any and all road water/snow/salt/sand. Better to be safe than sorry.

I found that I had missed one ground terminal yesterday when I needed the windshield wipers and they didn't work. Simple fix.


I also found that the connector at the oil pressure sending unit had come off and the wires got caught in the serpentine belt and had ripped the connector off.

I happened to find an identical connector on the donor car, which I used in order to remedy this issue.

Then I decided that driving lights would be nice to add.

With the exception of the driving light connectors being a different style from 05 to 07, this was a plug and play add on.

No additional relay or fuse swapping necessary!

I took only the light units with the connectors and 6" of wire(to splice to Blue's wires, which were the same color wires between the two years) along with the multi function switch(turn signal/headlight/hi-lo beam) assembly.

I take back half of the things I said about the Pacifica design team, that was the easiest 20 minute mod I've ever done!!!


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So, I'm beginning to think that Blue is either cursed or possessed....
With the old tires(245/65R17, wrong size) on, you could really feel the AWD kicking in when turning sharp and accelerating because the front tires were almost totally bald and the rears were almost brand new. That's understandable.
With the new set(235/65R17, the correct size), which all have the same amount of wear, you can feel the AWD kicking in even worse and the traction control lights are lit on the dash. Totally weird....
Ever since we bought Blue, the service tire system message has been showing.
8 days later my youngest daughter curbed it and pinched a hole in the sidewall of one of the new tires....
So I took my jack and an almost bald tire off the parts car and went to the rescue.
Since I put the bald tire(from the '05, which has no TPMS sensor) on, the traction control lights have gone away, as well as the service tire system message and oddly enough..... The AWD barely ever kicks in like it had been.
I'm TOTALLY stumped on that issue, it totally defies logic and the laws of physics.
Speaking of defying logic, the A/C compressor won't engage at all.
The relay is working properly because when I unplug it and plug it back in, you can feel the relay engage and disengage.
This tells me that the system is within parameters and it's letting the relay turn on the compressor.
The clutch reads 3.8 ohms which is within the specs I found somewhere online.
Here's where it gets weird...
There's 13.4 volts at the connector that plugs into the compressor clutch all the time, even with the car off and the key in my pocket.
If someone can make some sense of either of these issues, I would be extremely grateful!

Yes, some weird stuff on your '07, even by Pacifica standards. I don't have the AWD, don't have a clue as to how the germans built that. (I do have the electronic traction control on my '05, once got caught out on a muddy road, the traction control was kicking in and out like crazy, don't know if TC hurt or helped, but I do not look forward to having that experience again.)

If your AWD is giving real trouble one thing to consider is disconnecting one or more ABS sensors. Will take away your ABS, but should eliminate the AWD debacle.

In regard to the AC compressor issue, sounds like you have checked all the logical places. The one last thing to try, if you can manage, is to place a multi-meter in series with the AC coil circuit to see if it is drawing 3-4 amps. (that AC compressor is NOT easy to get to.) My own Pac's AC compressor coil went out about a year ago, was intermittent at first, perhaps it or something else in your AC coil circuit is opening up under load.

In terms of the full time 13.4 volts at the AC coil connector, sounds kind of spooky, like the computer doing something that it should not be doing. Always can be wired around, but I am sure you would prefer a proper repair..

PS - DO like the driving lights that you hooked up, they always look cool, like a $500 option from the factory.

Thanks, I really like how they look as well!

I've been racking my brain for days and I'm pretty sure I figured out why the A/C isn't working.
I have to wait until morning to confirm my suspicion because I just got home with it, and I'm not sticking my hands in a hot engine bay.
I was looking at the spare oil pressure sending unit I have when I noticed that the unit only has one terminal.
That's when it hit me.
The connector that I have plugged in to the oil pressure sending unit has two wires in it.
The A/C compressor plug has two wires from the clutch to the connector and the connector I have plugged into it from the body wiring harness only has one wire in it.
I'm 99% sure I have the oil pressure connector plugged into the A/C clutch, and the A/C clutch connector plugged into the oil pressure sending unit.

I haven't a clue still about the AWD issue, but I'm not too worried bout that just yet.
I'll let you know tomorrow if my suspicions are right.

So, my suspicions were right.
I did have the two connectors plugged into the wrong devices.
Now my oil pressure idiot light is off for the first time since the engine swap. Yay! Lol
The A/C, however, blew the clutch fuse instantly when I turned the A/C on.
I unplugged the connector to the clutch, replaced the fuse, started it, and turned on the A/C.
The fuse held and I had 13.8V across the two terminals.
I shut it off, plugged the connector back in, restarted it and the fuse blew instantly again.
I plugged an identical connector with 18" of wires on it into the compressor clutch so I can check the resistance from the top so it can be checked without having to do it by feel.
I got some really funky readings on my multi meter, ranging from 17.5 ohms to 1.4 ohms(I'm pretty sure my 25+ year old multi meter is on it's way out), but I'm almost positive I have a dead short in the clutch.
3-5 ohms is what I found for specs online, please correct me if that is bad info.
The compressor and clutch on the '05 parts car are both different than the '07's, or I'd be writing to tell you how nice the A/C felt. lol

Still have the "test wires" coming up from my 2005 Pac's AC compressor, was getting ready to step out and ohm them. But decided to check the factory manual 1st and found the attached PDF. Probably a better choice than checking the old test wires that I have rigged up, which may or may not yield accurate info.

According to the 2006 Pac manual the resistance should be about 3.6 to 5.5 ohms or so, two different Denso compressors are listed..
Not sure which compressor they put on the 2007's, but its resistance is prolly in the same ballpark.

So, today I stripped a bunch of parts off the parts Pacifica and installed them successfully in Blue.

Both front control arms, brake rotors and pads, and outer tie rod ends which I followed up with a driveway alignment using a level and a tape measure.

The steering wheel is level while driving for the first time since we've owned it and it removed 99.9% of the pull to the right.

I also removed the ignition cylinder assembly, the SKREEM, and the drivers door lock cylinder because the parts car actually has both key remotes.

Blue only has one remote key and I'm way too cheap to buy a new one so I figured this would be a great way to remain cheap. Lol

Well.... Daimler Chrysler had a pretty good program to thwart the ambitious DIYer....

A lot of the modules "remember" a VIN, and will not function correctly, if at all, if the VIN doesn't match.

Everything went in fine, the remotes worked fine and the key even started the engine.

Success!!!!!

.....until I put my foot on the brake pedal, when it immediately shut off and displayed "Service Immobilizer" on the left side of the gauge cluster.

So I had to un swap those again.

Then I spent a considerable amount of time tracing the wires in the parts car in the hopes of adding heated seats to Blue.

I took the leather upholstery off the seat completely, and found that the heating elements are glued to the foam and not the upholstery.
I'm thinking heated cloth seats would be awesome and unique! LOL

I traced the wires from the seat that aren't present in Blue's seat wiring.

There are wires that go to the passenger side and ones that go beyond where the drivers door wires diverge, and continue out through the firewall in the main wiring harness.

Since the seat controls are on the door, I traced the wires from the door.

There are a few wires that go forward and a few that go to the rear.

The ones that go to the rear seem to go to each of the other doors, presumably for window control.

None of the wires that come from the door go to the seat, so I'm trying to figure out how to make the heated seat transplant be a success.

I know that models without heated seats have a MSAPM under the driver seat and models with it have a MHSAPM(memory heated seat, adjustable pedal module) and that each door has it's own module and it all speaks to each other through the primary buss(or something like that).

Does that mean that if I swap the MHSAPM and seat wiring, all 4 door panels with modules and wiring harnesses, swap seat foams, and add power and ground to the heated seat connector in the right places and it might work?
Or am I nuts? LOL

I have been happily using my Pac's heated seats since 2005. Did not know the level of complexity the german's included in this seemingly simple feature! Holy Toledo! Just read the factory manual, reads like something intended for the Space Shuttle. But nevertheless, heated seats are kinda nice in Houston; would be super up north.
Attached please find the 2005 Pac service manual section for the seats, suspect the wiring remains the same for 2007 models...

Thanks djetelina, that does help with how the whole system works!
Would you have a wiring diagram?
I just want to be sure I take all the right stuff from the donor in order for it to work.
Thanks again!

Attached please find the Pac heated seat wiring diagram. Chrysler spared no effort in providing plenty of complexity in their seats...
Please note that these pages are from the 2005 factory manual, would believe & hope no changes were made to the 07's.
Good luck in getting em going!

Thank you for that!
I'll check it out this weekend.
From what I've seen so far, the wire colors are consistent between the '05 donor and our '07 for the few electrical items I have swapped.
I will let you know what I figure out, I just hope the door modules and the MHSAPM don't require a matching stored VIN in order to work correctly..... Or I'll be screwed. Lol

Best of luck in your efforts! And always remember, a cheap SPST relay, switch and the bare resistive heating elements can always be used in a pinch to route around the uber overly complex CPU driven Daimler-Chrysler heated seat strategy.

So, the DDM and MHSAPM do indeed require a matching stored VIN in order to work correctly according to the super knowledgeable service manager at my local Mopar dealership, who I had a half hour conversation with and was given a healthy education about the workings of the computer systems in Mopar vehicles.

The PCM is programmed from the factory to recognize ONLY the modules that are required for each individual trim level and options package it rolls off the assembly line with, and can't have additional modules added to it's memory.

The ONLY way to re-equip/ add options to any Mopar vehicle is to first add all required wiring for the particular options you want to add, then you need a new PCM and you have to buy all new modules, and I mean every last module in the vehicle.....
THEN.... You have to have the modules programmed to the PCM , and vice versa...

So al you need is a fully loaded parts car for the required wiring, between $4,000 and $6,000 for a PCM and every single module, and a minimum of an hour's labor at the stealership to program it all.

Only a select few electrical items can be swapped out that don't have a module controlling them.

I asked him if there was a way I could use the rear heated seat module and switches to heat the front seats.
He wasn't 100% sure, but he seemed to think that the rear heated seat module only needs to communicate with the switches(and not the PCM) and MIGHT be able to be used with the front seat heating elements to produce a working pair of heated front seats.
I'm going to park Blue next to the parts car and run some long jumper wires(for 12 volts and ground) to try to see if my theory would work.

If it doesn't work I'll get two 3 position switches(on/off/on), two relays and an appropriate resistor(to provide reduced voltage for a "low" heat setting) for each of the front seats.

Wow!

On the lighter side of the news, Blue's engine got it's first oil change today at 3,171 miles since the transplant.
There was no abnormal look, texture, or smell to the old oil, so life is pretty good right now! Lol

Today I started digging in to the rear heated seat in the parts car.
The rear heated seat module does NOT tie into the white with violet wire, which is the primary data interface that ties the PCM to the other modules and renders them useless candidates to swap, so it was full speed ahead!!!
I isolated and removed all of the wires, the switches, and the rear heated seat module.
The rear seat heating elements have an integrated temperature sensor in them that the front seat heating elements do not, so the front seat elements are a bust.
I also dug in to the front passenger seat, and when I removed the cushion foam there was a tag saying not to separate the foam from the Occupancy Classification Sensor.
Although, even though the foam isn't actually physically bonded to the sensor by any means, apparently it's too late by the time you find the warning.
So I will make sure to leave the foam in place in Blue!
I pulled the heating elements off both rear seat cushions and back rests, layed them out flat, plugged all the connectors in, took the battery out of my Jeep and put power to just the rear heated seat module.
I turned both switches on high, the LEDs lit up, and within 60 seconds I could feel heat in all of the elements!
Success!
Tomorrow I'm going to figure out where on the dash or center console to locate and cut in the two switches and start the transplant!
I'm going to get a roll of that ridiculously sticky double-sided carpet tape to put the elements on Blue's seat foams.
I even got into the fuse box and located the power wire, removed the wire terminal from the connector that plugs in to the bottom of the PDC, and the corresponding fuse in the rear heated seat slot.
That will keep it so it only works in the run position and properly fused, as well as remaining in the proper location in the fuse panel.
Heated cloth seats for a Maine winter.....
This winter just got better already!!!
LOL
The interior of the donor car looks like a bomb went off in it!!!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...d9dd6defd.jpeg

Good going! Some reference info can be found at Pac Tech Ref , should it be of assistance in getting the wiring worked out.

Thanks djetelina!
The help you have given me so far has been most of the reason this particular project has come as far as it has, and my hat is off to you!

So, today I spent a huge amount of time finding a space for the two switches.
Not only did I have to find a spot big enough for the switches, but also deep enough to accommodate the connector and wiring for each, as well as a place that has the same curvature as the switches.
After careful measuring I finally found a spot on each side that came as close to perfect as I could hope for.
Then with extreme patience and steady hands, I took the Fein tool out of the work van and cut the holes for the switches.
I kept test fitting the switches and filing the openings to keep the absolute minimum of clearance between them.
Once I was satisfied with the fit and finish of the switches I glued them in place from the back side with Shoe Goo.
That stuff has a tenacious grip and remains slightly flexible after it cures.
Then I spent a couple of hours of trimming, test fitting, and repeating until the two trim pieces snapped perfectly back in place.
I hid the rear heated seat module in the void behind the radio and the cubby below it.
I need to get the power wire into the fuse box and put the heating elements in the seats to finish.
Hopefully I can finish it in the evenings after work this week!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...24c4846a7.jpeg
The driver side is all set for the trim piece to go back on. The passenger side still has much trimming left.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...ea5881f5d.jpeg
The switches almost look like they belong there!

So, Blue has been stalling on my daughter for the last few days.
I told her "she doesn't like that crappy music you play" but she didn't believe me. LOL
My daughter works at a local Napa, so she read Blue's codes.
P0404 and P0430 were among the 5 codes.
A little research found that an exhaust leak will contribute to these codes.
Both mufflers have melon sized holes in them so I'm hoping new ones will help.
Mufflers seem to be nearly impossible to acquire locally(midcoast Maine) for some reason.
I found them online and the driver side looks 100% correct, but the ones they all show for the passenger side doesn't look like what I remember it looking like.
They're reasonably priced but still not cheap enough that I want to chance having to deal with an incorrect muffler and trying to exchange it for the right one.
Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

Have not had to tackle the PO404 or PO430 codes. But did have a PO420 on my Pac (cat converter efficiency code), that was on for years. Eventually installed piggybacked spark plug antifoulers on the rearmost O2 sensor, has corrected the PO420 code and engine light is off.
In Texas, with no road salt, Pac (and all other modern vehicles) exhaust systems seem to last for generations. Can be had at the junk yards for a song...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...f542366b76.jpg

Exhaust systems have a life span of roughly 5 years up here in Maine, where they use about a 90/10 salt/sand mix on the roads.
Finding good used exhaust parts is about the same odds as being struck by lightning twice.
I can't sing, so I'll never be able to come get an exhaust from your local JY. LOL
The P0430 is a catalyst efficiency code, so I'll give the anti-fouler a try!
The P0404 is EGR performance.
Pretty sure I have a spare EGR valve.
The temperature is slowly declining for the winter, so I'll need to finish the heated seat transplant very soon.
I'm at a standstill on repairing my daughter's Jeep, so maybe I can get the heating elements in and stuff the wire in the PDC tomorrow.

So, today I installed the heating elements in Blue's seats, ran the wire into the PDC, and put the fuse in slot #44 and was totally successful!!!
I took the upholstery off the seats just far enough to put the elements in place and used some Super 77 spray adhesive to keep them where they belong!
It is so awesome, I spent quite a long time "testing" them!!! Lol

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...b1f628cbe.jpeg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...bfd7551aa.jpeg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...62ea6d0ae.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...12433b99c.jpeg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...150144df5.jpeg
The top is LO, and the bottom is HI. Both LEDs are on solid and the heaters are working 100%!!!

About 2.5 hours was all it took to finish, including the half hour it took me to figure out that I had put the connection in the wrong space in the connector on the first attempt. Lol
This winter just got better, and it's not even here yet!!!

Let me start by saying that the heated seats are just plain awesome!!!

Since my last visit I found a pair of mufflers and installed them. The driver's side is a bolt on unit and the passenger's side is a weld on unit.
No problem there, it took longer to bring out the welder and get set up than it did to actually weld the muffler on.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...4d560e596.jpeg
On my test drive the alternator gave up and the lights went dim and she stalled....
After a half mile walk home to grab the work van, jumper cables, and my wife I went and got it to take a jump start and drove it home quickly.
A new alternator and a new battery seems to have cured the problem so far.
Now the ball joints and tie rod ends I swapped from the parts car are clunking so I ordered a new 8 piece front end kit from Detroit Axle.
It arrived today.
2 control arms, 2 inner tie rod ends, 2 outer tie rod ends, and 2 sway bar links.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...d57cdb894.jpeg
Weather permitting, I'll have them all installed
in the evenings after work, although the forecast isn't exactly promising.
After that will be motor mounts....
Yesterday I floored it from a dead stop to avoid being rear-ended(which worked, btw) and it sounded like the engine hit the firewall.
Better to have ruined the motor mounts than to have that big Ford F-9000 slam into the back of us with my granddaughters on board!!!!
I'm really impressed because I stepped on it and it launched like a rally car!
The AWD system definitely fully engaged.
I still have absolutely no idea how there was no contact, I've backed into things that looked farther away than the truck grille did. Lol