Originally Posted by dinvalid1

After spending $100 for a dealership diagnostics with a computer reset and $100 for a new battery(dealer wanted $250 so I took it to the zone), I tried this fix on my 2005. It worked perfectly and was easy with the provided instructions. I haven't had a single issue since I performed this fix 4 months ago . Thank you for posting this as the dealership was trying to bleed me dry.

Originally Posted by rob71

what all did you do?did you just run another positive wire from posi terminal on battery to the ground lug under the fuse box??

Originally Posted by zygoma

Well, no -- think about it; that would cause an immediate shower of sparks and either a dead battery or a spectacular fire, depending upon how long the battery lasted. Going back and reading first detailed post in the thread, what has been being done is to parallel a second "big red" wire from the battery to the main positive line that feeds the HOT line on the bottom of the fuse box, the font from which flows all the current that the fuses supply the smaller circuits. The original problem was that the stock "big red" lead has an inferior connection inside the black plastic shroud that couldn't be seen, but was allowing the connection to break so that none of the circuits that run off the fuse box were staying on reliably. This new, second wire has a visibly solid connection at both ends and has been solving the problem. For the folks who have mentioned also using DeOxit, that is a product made by the Caig Corporation, that cleans and preserves electrical contacts in all manner of industries. I use it in computer and radio communications.

Originally Posted by sjlutz77

Photos seem to me missing, or is it just me?

Originally Posted by 04PAC-enthusiast

Pictures are located in older post page 6 # 56 I think....I added link but not sure it will work....https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...ge6/#post37596

Cheers

Originally Posted by ranzy

I went ahead and got the photos for you today. I kind of wanted to wait to see if it was fixed before I got in there and started unhooking anything but I figured what could it hurt.

This is an over view of the battery area of my Pacifica.


Those are the ground wires that I added first when I thought it was a bad ground connection. I plan to leave them there because it won't hurt anything.

REMOVE YOUR BATTERY BEFORE YOU START THIS PROJECT. YOU KIND OF HAVE TO JUST TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE BOX ANYWAY, BUT EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU CAN GET TO IT WITHOUT REMOVING IT, DON'T DO IT. JUST REMOVE YOUR BATTERY! OK.

After you remove your battery you can see that the fuse box is hinged so that you can flip it over and get at the bottom.


Between the fuse box and the fender you will see the two levers to unlatch and flip the box over.


Here is a view of the box flipped over.


That black wire is what I added to the wiring harness. They did not have it in red at my Wal-Mart but I didn't care. It's a 4 gage wire, so it could carry the load even if I removed the factory wire all together. It is just a lawn and garden cable from Wal-Mart for about $4.00. Here is a closer look at the connection I made. I know it was not just a bad connection to the fuse box becaue I had already taken that connector off once during my trouble shooting and cleaned the connector with a wire brush and applied DeoxIT to the power connector and the plate that it bolts to on the fuse box.


Here are the two wires removed from the connector. You will have to bend the connector like that but it is easy to do.


Look at where the red wire goes into the black plastic cover for the connector. That is where I was able to just pull a little and it slipped out of the plastic. That is when I really knew it was bad. Try to pull on the wires at the other end and you will see that you can't budge them. Here it is really close up.


Here are the rest of my connections so that you can see exactly what I did. I did not remove any factory wiring. You can make the repair for less than $4.00 and you do not have to remove the covers from the wire harness to make this repair. I only did it to confirm that the wire from the battery really goes from the battery straight to the fuse box. If it made any other connections on the way, that could have been the problem, so I just wanted to make sure before I just added a wire to the fuse box. That is the other end of the black wire I added to the harness and you can see that it is easy to install onto the battery.


Here you can see where I attached the wire for the new connection to the body and engine.


If you want to do this one, I just took off one of the nuts for the strut mount and scrapped off the paint to make a good connection to the body. I tested the connection by removing the factroy ground wire and starting the car and turning on everything I could think of on the car. It worked just fine. The second wire just goes down to the bottom of the engine. I just removed a bolt from the engine that I had easy access to and bolted the wire to the engine.


I hope this helps some people out. I have never posted a fix to a forum before but I have sure read some. I really appreciate it when there are good photos to help me out, so I tried to post it like I would want if I found this post. Since you have to remove the battery to get in there and do the repair I did not have to stress this so hard. Electrical problems can be a nightmare but I think this is the fix. We drove the car a few times today and it was still solid as a rock.

Believe me, if this is not the answer then I will follow up and let you know. After all this ranting and a big write-up I hope I don't have to eat my words. But I don'twant to waste anybody's time replacing a wire if it didn't really fix my problem.

Ranzy