Flickering lights on our Pacifica
#111
09-25-2013, 07:30 PM
greetings to all forum members. I from peru
[QUOT
greetings from Peru would please me to send these pictures because I can not open my step 2 times the flashing lights.
email: dex104@hotmail.com
ATTE
David Soto Rock
Lima - Peru
greetings from Peru would please me to send these pictures because I can not open my step 2 times the flashing lights.
email: dex104@hotmail.com
ATTE
David Soto Rock
Lima - Peru
#112
09-25-2013, 10:46 PM
greetings foro chrysler
I went ahead and got the photos for you today. I kind of wanted to wait to see if it was fixed before I got in there and started unhooking anything but I figured what could it hurt.
This is an over view of the battery area of my Pacifica.
Those are the ground wires that I added first when I thought it was a bad ground connection. I plan to leave them there because it won't hurt anything.
REMOVE YOUR BATTERY BEFORE YOU START THIS PROJECT. YOU KIND OF HAVE TO JUST TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE BOX ANYWAY, BUT EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU CAN GET TO IT WITHOUT REMOVING IT, DON'T DO IT. JUST REMOVE YOUR BATTERY! OK.
After you remove your battery you can see that the fuse box is hinged so that you can flip it over and get at the bottom.
Between the fuse box and the fender you will see the two levers to unlatch and flip the box over.
Here is a view of the box flipped over.
That black wire is what I added to the wiring harness. They did not have it in red at my Wal-Mart but I didn't care. It's a 4 gage wire, so it could carry the load even if I removed the factory wire all together. It is just a lawn and garden cable from Wal-Mart for about $4.00. Here is a closer look at the connection I made. I know it was not just a bad connection to the fuse box becaue I had already taken that connector off once during my trouble shooting and cleaned the connector with a wire brush and applied DeoxIT to the power connector and the plate that it bolts to on the fuse box.
Here are the two wires removed from the connector. You will have to bend the connector like that but it is easy to do.
Look at where the red wire goes into the black plastic cover for the connector. That is where I was able to just pull a little and it slipped out of the plastic. That is when I really knew it was bad. Try to pull on the wires at the other end and you will see that you can't budge them. Here it is really close up.
Here are the rest of my connections so that you can see exactly what I did. I did not remove any factory wiring. You can make the repair for less than $4.00 and you do not have to remove the covers from the wire harness to make this repair. I only did it to confirm that the wire from the battery really goes from the battery straight to the fuse box. If it made any other connections on the way, that could have been the problem, so I just wanted to make sure before I just added a wire to the fuse box. That is the other end of the black wire I added to the harness and you can see that it is easy to install onto the battery.
Here you can see where I attached the wire for the new connection to the body and engine.
If you want to do this one, I just took off one of the nuts for the strut mount and scrapped off the paint to make a good connection to the body. I tested the connection by removing the factroy ground wire and starting the car and turning on everything I could think of on the car. It worked just fine. The second wire just goes down to the bottom of the engine. I just removed a bolt from the engine that I had easy access to and bolted the wire to the engine.
I hope this helps some people out. I have never posted a fix to a forum before but I have sure read some. I really appreciate it when there are good photos to help me out, so I tried to post it like I would want if I found this post. Since you have to remove the battery to get in there and do the repair I did not have to stress this so hard. Electrical problems can be a nightmare but I think this is the fix. We drove the car a few times today and it was still solid as a rock.
Believe me, if this is not the answer then I will follow up and let you know. After all this ranting and a big write-up I hope I don't have to eat my words. But I don'twant to waste anybody's time replacing a wire if it didn't really fix my problem.
Ranzy
This is an over view of the battery area of my Pacifica.
Those are the ground wires that I added first when I thought it was a bad ground connection. I plan to leave them there because it won't hurt anything.
REMOVE YOUR BATTERY BEFORE YOU START THIS PROJECT. YOU KIND OF HAVE TO JUST TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE BOX ANYWAY, BUT EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU CAN GET TO IT WITHOUT REMOVING IT, DON'T DO IT. JUST REMOVE YOUR BATTERY! OK.
After you remove your battery you can see that the fuse box is hinged so that you can flip it over and get at the bottom.
Between the fuse box and the fender you will see the two levers to unlatch and flip the box over.
Here is a view of the box flipped over.
That black wire is what I added to the wiring harness. They did not have it in red at my Wal-Mart but I didn't care. It's a 4 gage wire, so it could carry the load even if I removed the factory wire all together. It is just a lawn and garden cable from Wal-Mart for about $4.00. Here is a closer look at the connection I made. I know it was not just a bad connection to the fuse box becaue I had already taken that connector off once during my trouble shooting and cleaned the connector with a wire brush and applied DeoxIT to the power connector and the plate that it bolts to on the fuse box.
Here are the two wires removed from the connector. You will have to bend the connector like that but it is easy to do.
Look at where the red wire goes into the black plastic cover for the connector. That is where I was able to just pull a little and it slipped out of the plastic. That is when I really knew it was bad. Try to pull on the wires at the other end and you will see that you can't budge them. Here it is really close up.
Here are the rest of my connections so that you can see exactly what I did. I did not remove any factory wiring. You can make the repair for less than $4.00 and you do not have to remove the covers from the wire harness to make this repair. I only did it to confirm that the wire from the battery really goes from the battery straight to the fuse box. If it made any other connections on the way, that could have been the problem, so I just wanted to make sure before I just added a wire to the fuse box. That is the other end of the black wire I added to the harness and you can see that it is easy to install onto the battery.
Here you can see where I attached the wire for the new connection to the body and engine.
If you want to do this one, I just took off one of the nuts for the strut mount and scrapped off the paint to make a good connection to the body. I tested the connection by removing the factroy ground wire and starting the car and turning on everything I could think of on the car. It worked just fine. The second wire just goes down to the bottom of the engine. I just removed a bolt from the engine that I had easy access to and bolted the wire to the engine.
I hope this helps some people out. I have never posted a fix to a forum before but I have sure read some. I really appreciate it when there are good photos to help me out, so I tried to post it like I would want if I found this post. Since you have to remove the battery to get in there and do the repair I did not have to stress this so hard. Electrical problems can be a nightmare but I think this is the fix. We drove the car a few times today and it was still solid as a rock.
Believe me, if this is not the answer then I will follow up and let you know. After all this ranting and a big write-up I hope I don't have to eat my words. But I don'twant to waste anybody's time replacing a wire if it didn't really fix my problem.
Ranzy
greetings from Peru would please me to send these pictures because I can not open my step 2 times the flashing lights.
email: dex104@hotmail.com
ATTE
David Soto Rock
Lima - Peru
#113
09-25-2013, 10:48 PM
From msg. #109
Was written : >>We also recently had the transmission giving us all kinds of error codes, turned out to be a bad alternator. Our mechanic diagnosed it by temporally disconnecting the alternator and the transmission started working normally again. This would be an easy test for backyard mechanics like us.<< Maybe Chrysler Tech or someone else can chime in on this. I didn't think it was a good idea to have the alt. disconnected with the engine running as to not have other serious problems as a result ? Am I correct ? Thanks. *BW*
#115
12-23-2013, 07:27 PM
thanks ranzy
I read your post and my wife's 2006 Pacifica Touring was doing the very same thing. I have been trying to find the problem for about a month and i thought it was an intermittant problem like you described and didn't want to take it to a dealer. I had already taken the power distribution box off and looked at the connections but couldn't find anything wrong but after i read your post i went back to it and i actually cut the plastic off at the terminal connection to see it. I found that it was a poor crimp on it so i took some large plyers and crimped it tighter and taped it back where the plastic coating had been. i also checked the voltage at the altenator verses the voltage at the battery terminal and found there was a big change in voltage which shouldn't be. The positive battery cables were so hot that you couldn't even touch them and i knew this was wrong so i found that the crimp on the positive cables was also very poor and was actually loose so i took and cleaned them real good and with the large plyers crimped them very tight even on the cable coating to where there was no looseness at all on the cables. i then checked the voltage again at the altenator verses the battery with a simple volt meter and the voltage was very close. you will have a slight drop but not much. the cables did not get hot at all after i did this and the flickering and chiming has gone away. i feel confident the problem is fixed. I was concerned about running a new cable and leaving the old one on there because they were getting so hot. They were so hot i can't believe they didn't catch on fire or short out. I think Chrysler had bad battery and power cables which were poorly crimped either by them or Mexico and should have had a recall on them. 
I've been doing electrical technician work for Freightliner Trucks for thirty years and one thing I've learned is loose and corroded terminals can cause havoc on these new electronic vehicles.
I've been doing electrical technician work for Freightliner Trucks for thirty years and one thing I've learned is loose and corroded terminals can cause havoc on these new electronic vehicles.
#116
01-19-2014, 09:54 PM
I have an 06 pacifica and my wife loves her car. She hates driving my truck because its too high. So she always urges me to fix whatever problem she has with it or i have to shoffer her around. While long story short, this flickering crap has been going for a month now and i thought it was nothing. But she recently (two weeks ago) stopped driving it because the radio flickered in and out along with the lights front and rear, dashboard, brakelights and the abs. So i went and bought a battery a week ago and it fixed problem for 30 min. I tried to start car start car this morning and all i got was click click click....dead. So as you can imagine the look on her face before she was getting ready for towards me!!! The expression said fix it now. So I found myself at Autozone 9 this morning to get a Alternator in hopes that it would fix the problem. So i rushed home and put it on. The car started and no flickering. So I started down the road to take her car to her and 5 min into the ride everything started all over agian at the same time like a bad nightmare.
I am going to try this fix and hope that it works. to tell you the truth i wished that i had researched this site first before i spent 500.00. i will repost if i works thank for the advice.
I am going to try this fix and hope that it works. to tell you the truth i wished that i had researched this site first before i spent 500.00. i will repost if i works thank for the advice.
#117
01-19-2014, 10:06 PM
#119
02-18-2014, 12:09 AM
hi my name is steven im having the same issue with my 04 chrysler pacifica it started to flicker then completely shut off and wont go back on i see that u found a solution but i need help i was wondering can u give me step by step on how to do this thank you
