Flickering lights on our Pacifica
#42
11-06-2009, 09:53 AM
Has anyone tried this on a Chrysler 300? I have the same problem with every light on/in the car flickering. My battery is under my back seat. The battery for the Pacifica is under the hood correct? Any suggestions on how to fix same problem in 05 Chrysler Limited. Thanks
#44
01-25-2010, 05:38 AM
Flickering lights on our Pacifica
I recently got another GTX 260 and decided to try SLI, Ive installed the new card and activated SLI using the Nvidia Control Panel.
However sometimes when I load up a game such as Team Fortress 2 or Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2 the screen will be flickering and I have to close down the game.
Everything works fine with SLI disabled.
Any idea what could be causing this, is the card faulty?
Thanks for the help.
However sometimes when I load up a game such as Team Fortress 2 or Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2 the screen will be flickering and I have to close down the game.
Everything works fine with SLI disabled.
Any idea what could be causing this, is the card faulty?
Thanks for the help.
#45
02-21-2010, 02:55 PM
Can't view pictures of fix
I can't seem to view or download any of the pictures of this fix. Every time i click on one of them this site tells me i don't have permission to view them. Can anyone email them to me as i am having the same problem with my 05 pacifica. thanks
loco
loco
#46
02-21-2010, 10:05 PM
Loco,
been my complaint for some time. They used to display when Ranzy first posted but they don't now but some people seem to be able to see them. I see nothing using Firefox and get a red "X" for each picture if I use explorer. Unfortunately I only have one picture saved. Basically its running another pos. jumper wire from the nut on the + battery post to the fuse box. If you take the fuse box off, there will be a nut under it (where the factory wire comes in) that you can attach to. You need to confirm the nut has positive voltage first. You don't want to ground out anything!!
maybe someone will post them for you.
been my complaint for some time. They used to display when Ranzy first posted but they don't now but some people seem to be able to see them. I see nothing using Firefox and get a red "X" for each picture if I use explorer. Unfortunately I only have one picture saved. Basically its running another pos. jumper wire from the nut on the + battery post to the fuse box. If you take the fuse box off, there will be a nut under it (where the factory wire comes in) that you can attach to. You need to confirm the nut has positive voltage first. You don't want to ground out anything!!
maybe someone will post them for you.
#48
02-23-2010, 08:50 AM
I'm having this issue with a 2000 300m and i'll look into it later. Unfortunately I cannot open the images either, argh....
#50
04-19-2010, 09:51 AM
This Fix Really Works & It's EASY
Thank you, Ranzy. I am eternally in your debt! Our 2006 Pacifica was driving my wife and I crazy with the constant flickering, dinging dashboard chime and occasional engine stalls when stopped in traffic. Worst of all was opening the car doors at night while the engine was running -- all the interior lights would flash like strobe lights.
I had the alternator and battery tested twice and had an electronic diagnosis done (no problems detected). I assumed like a lot a lot of other people that the issue must be a faulty ground. So I replaced the ground cable off the battery and really cleaned the connection to the chassis, but no go. I was too stubborn to take the car in and spend hundreds of dollars on a costly and fruitless search for an elusive problem. So we kept driving it and the SDI (Spousal Dissatisfaction Index) rose by points daily.
Then I found this forum with Ranzy's thread. It took me exactly 30 minutes and a $7 battery cable to make the fix, including the time to thoroughly clean both battery terminals and connectors. The flickering/chiming/stalling problem disappeared immediately and hasn't returned once in the four weeks since. The car idles smoother, too. The SDI is at its lowest level in months.
I never could get the posted photos to display either, but if you are even a little mechanically inclined, you don't need them. The written descriptions in this thread are clear and specific enough to do it. Just flip the fuse box over after removing the battery and you will clearly see the place to remove the nut and attach one end of your piggybacked battery cable.
I bought a 36-inch cable and I'm glad I did. It gave me plenty of slack for routing it well out of the way and underneath the battery. Depending on what specific cable you use, you may have do some cutting and crimping like I did. I used tin snips to cut the battery connector down to a small size and then used large vise grips to flatten it out so I could bolt it down on top of the primary positive battery cable. You'll also have to use vise grips or very heavy pliers to bend the connector at the other end of the cable into an L shape. Otherwise, it probably won't fit over the connector bolt on the bottom of the fuse box, which is at the bottom of a deep, narrow space.
Good luck, everyone.
Fixed in Austin
I had the alternator and battery tested twice and had an electronic diagnosis done (no problems detected). I assumed like a lot a lot of other people that the issue must be a faulty ground. So I replaced the ground cable off the battery and really cleaned the connection to the chassis, but no go. I was too stubborn to take the car in and spend hundreds of dollars on a costly and fruitless search for an elusive problem. So we kept driving it and the SDI (Spousal Dissatisfaction Index) rose by points daily.
Then I found this forum with Ranzy's thread. It took me exactly 30 minutes and a $7 battery cable to make the fix, including the time to thoroughly clean both battery terminals and connectors. The flickering/chiming/stalling problem disappeared immediately and hasn't returned once in the four weeks since. The car idles smoother, too. The SDI is at its lowest level in months.
I never could get the posted photos to display either, but if you are even a little mechanically inclined, you don't need them. The written descriptions in this thread are clear and specific enough to do it. Just flip the fuse box over after removing the battery and you will clearly see the place to remove the nut and attach one end of your piggybacked battery cable.
I bought a 36-inch cable and I'm glad I did. It gave me plenty of slack for routing it well out of the way and underneath the battery. Depending on what specific cable you use, you may have do some cutting and crimping like I did. I used tin snips to cut the battery connector down to a small size and then used large vise grips to flatten it out so I could bolt it down on top of the primary positive battery cable. You'll also have to use vise grips or very heavy pliers to bend the connector at the other end of the cable into an L shape. Otherwise, it probably won't fit over the connector bolt on the bottom of the fuse box, which is at the bottom of a deep, narrow space.
Good luck, everyone.
Fixed in Austin