IP=Instrument Panel.... also known as the dashboard

 

Gotcha, I guess I think of that part as the Console.. where the outlets are. Let us know what you find out.

 

So I'm still dealing with this issue.

Over the weekend I pulled the car in the garage and popped the panels of the dash to get to the back of the outlets. Was hoping to find a plug that had come loose. No such luck.

Re-checked continuity to ground on the ground wire and it checks okay.

Traced the power wire back to the main wire harness connector under the dash. Got continuity on both sides of the connector, but no voltage.

Went back out to the fuse panel. Everything is still okay on the front side of the panel (voltage), but no continuity to the wire harness under the dash

No continuity to ground anywhere on the power wire, so it isn't a short.

So I've got it narrowed down to the connector on the back of the fuse panel (or PDM as it is referred to in the manual), or a break in the wire between there and the connector under the dash.

Have to pull the battery to flip out the PDM and check that connector. Ran out of time for that. Maybe tonight.

This is ridiculous. Why couldn't it have happened under warranty?

 

Wow.. you ran some good tests... By chance, have you pulled the neg. cable or IOD fuse to reset all the systems in the car?

 

Hi,

I am following this forum in case I find myself in the same boat. Good sleuthing thus far. You said:

That diagram doesn't quite match my 2007, because it shows the Cigar Lighter and Power Outlet-Front Console on the same circuit, and the Power Outlet-Rear (selectable) on a different fuse (24). The Cigar Lighter is actually on its own circuit, and the three power outlets are on the same circuit.

Now, I have an '05 so that diagram does match my setup and my factory manual. With that said, according to my owners manual, the switched outlet under the radio is the cigar lighter, and the unswitched next to it is the is the "power outlet-instrument panel". So, the cigar lighter (switched plug under radio), and the "power outlet front console" (switched plug on back of front seat console) are on #26, the "selectable" plug in the cargo area is on #24, and the unswitched "power outlet-instrument panel" is on its own circuit protected by a PTC.

I'm not sure, but getting all that squared may help you determine what is going on.


You also said:

The relay is not the problem. I know this because it is bypassed when the fuse is in the unswitched position.

I'm probably being dense here, but - I agree that by moving the "selectable" fuse (#24/20A in my case) to the unswitched position, we bypass the accessory relay and make the cargo compartment plug unswitched. I can't quite see how that also then proves anything about the functionality of the accessory relay, since like you said, we have bypassed it. Now I agree that other items should be inop with a failed relay - in my manual it looks like the nav system, sunroof etc. But, I did notice that the accessory relay in my IPM has exactly the same P/N as several others. So why not swap it just for giggles?

Also, your original post says that only your front panel unswitched plug is hot. Can you regain operation of the cargo plug if you move the "selectable" fuse to the other position? Are both "outside" pins of the selectable fuse position hot with the key in run? (I'm surmising that the center pin is common to both positions).

Just a few thoughts to throw in. I spent a while looking over the wiring diagrams in my manual and you obviously are not leaving any stones unturned. I'm sure it is frustrating. Electrical always is:

I once was trying to troubleshoot a heater fan on a friends "new" car. Volt meters, fuses, wiring, switch out of dash etc., etc, etc, only to finally look under the glove box to discover that the fan was MISSING. DOH!!

 

I need the circuit diagram for the PDM.

Pulled the battery to get to the back side of the PDM. Several blue wires with a red tracer. None had continuity to the plug or to the fuse terminal.

Unswitched outlet has its own fuse and seems to be on a completely separate circuit.

I'm pretty much to the point where I'm going to tap into another 12V source and "hotwire" it.

 

Don't give up now.... just read your signature and continue.