Pacifica P0700, P0720 - tricky issue resolved
#41
09-04-2017, 11:57 AM
Confirmed!!!!
Well, sure enough, new Alternator installed and pushing it to the max with pretty much all my accessories runing, and NO PROBLEMS OR CODES!
THANKS TravisAZ!!
THANKS TravisAZ!!
#42
10-24-2017, 04:35 PM
Thanks!
I created an account on this website just to say thanks for this post!
I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus 2.4L which was exhibiting the same symptoms: P0700, p0720, p0720 codes, and the speedometer would go to about 20 miles per hour whenever the car was stopped and idling. I replaced the transmission output speed sensor but that didn't resolve the problem. After reading this post I had the alternator checked and sure enough it gone bad. I replaced the alternator and now everything is great.
Thank You!
-Eric
I have a 2005 Dodge Stratus 2.4L which was exhibiting the same symptoms: P0700, p0720, p0720 codes, and the speedometer would go to about 20 miles per hour whenever the car was stopped and idling. I replaced the transmission output speed sensor but that didn't resolve the problem. After reading this post I had the alternator checked and sure enough it gone bad. I replaced the alternator and now everything is great.
Thank You!
-Eric
#43
05-19-2018, 04:47 PM
Just posting this to share incase someone else has the same problem.
Symptoms: Speedo reads +mph when sitting in drive, reverse with foot on the brake - usually showed between 10 and 25mph on the speedometer. Car 'clunked' when shifting into reverse and would feel like it was pulling hard against the brakes with an elevated idle.
Took it to AAMCO, and they replaced an output speed sensor (~150$). 4mo later, same thing, and I take it back. This time they say the code isn't there, and they can't reproduce the problem, but there is the generic transmission code P0700, and it is clunking into gear, and the fluid smells funny, etc, and they try to put the hard sell on me to pull the trans and take a look (700$ to take a look). I told them no thanks.
Brought the car home, bought a code scanner (been needing one anyway), and sure enough, code P0720, output speed sensor. Bought one at autozone for 16$, replaced it myself.
Several weeks later, same condition. Dropped the trans pan and changed the filter/fluid because there was some metal dust on the magentic tip of the speed sensor. No dice.
After messing with the car for a while, I realized it would only do this right at startup, and then the condition would go away, until I turned on the air conditioner (summer in phoenix so this is always on may-oct) or the headlights.
Had my charging system checked, and they got a "Excess Diode Ripple" condiiton on my alternator. Picked one up from the local auto recyclers for 40$, and now the car is running great again with no p0700 or p0720. It turns out that when a diode in your alternator goes out, it can create basically EMI that can freak out various sensors in the car.
So much for the shot transmission and 700$ to take a look. If I would have let them do that they obviously would have rebuilt it costing me thousands, and I would still have the same problem. Lol AAMCO, and yes, they will be hearing about this.
Also, one note, when the condition would happen, it would throw codes p0700 and p0720. Once these codes were thrown the trans would shift bad, harsh from park into reverse. Pretty sure the car got stuck in limp-home mode once, but all of this would go away when I used the scanner to reset the CEL.
Anyway, hope this helps someone else and saves them some $$...
Oh yea, one side note, the alternator job is trivial, except for the belt tensioner, which was a total freaking nightmare. Get in there and figure out if you can get a tool on it before you tear the rest of the car apart. I had to use a 3/8in socket driver, but a normal ratchet wrench was too big, so I used one that was just a bar with the 180* swivel, that was the only thing compact enough to get in the tensioner, I then had to use a piece of pipe to get enough leverage, pushing hard with the left hand, holding the tension off of the belt, while getting the belt on 1 handed, and this was from under the car. I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off, and it was a challenge. Im sure there is a better tool for the job, but I didn't have it...
Symptoms: Speedo reads +mph when sitting in drive, reverse with foot on the brake - usually showed between 10 and 25mph on the speedometer. Car 'clunked' when shifting into reverse and would feel like it was pulling hard against the brakes with an elevated idle.
Took it to AAMCO, and they replaced an output speed sensor (~150$). 4mo later, same thing, and I take it back. This time they say the code isn't there, and they can't reproduce the problem, but there is the generic transmission code P0700, and it is clunking into gear, and the fluid smells funny, etc, and they try to put the hard sell on me to pull the trans and take a look (700$ to take a look). I told them no thanks.
Brought the car home, bought a code scanner (been needing one anyway), and sure enough, code P0720, output speed sensor. Bought one at autozone for 16$, replaced it myself.
Several weeks later, same condition. Dropped the trans pan and changed the filter/fluid because there was some metal dust on the magentic tip of the speed sensor. No dice.
After messing with the car for a while, I realized it would only do this right at startup, and then the condition would go away, until I turned on the air conditioner (summer in phoenix so this is always on may-oct) or the headlights.
Had my charging system checked, and they got a "Excess Diode Ripple" condiiton on my alternator. Picked one up from the local auto recyclers for 40$, and now the car is running great again with no p0700 or p0720. It turns out that when a diode in your alternator goes out, it can create basically EMI that can freak out various sensors in the car.
So much for the shot transmission and 700$ to take a look. If I would have let them do that they obviously would have rebuilt it costing me thousands, and I would still have the same problem. Lol AAMCO, and yes, they will be hearing about this.
Also, one note, when the condition would happen, it would throw codes p0700 and p0720. Once these codes were thrown the trans would shift bad, harsh from park into reverse. Pretty sure the car got stuck in limp-home mode once, but all of this would go away when I used the scanner to reset the CEL.
Anyway, hope this helps someone else and saves them some $$...
Oh yea, one side note, the alternator job is trivial, except for the belt tensioner, which was a total freaking nightmare. Get in there and figure out if you can get a tool on it before you tear the rest of the car apart. I had to use a 3/8in socket driver, but a normal ratchet wrench was too big, so I used one that was just a bar with the 180* swivel, that was the only thing compact enough to get in the tensioner, I then had to use a piece of pipe to get enough leverage, pushing hard with the left hand, holding the tension off of the belt, while getting the belt on 1 handed, and this was from under the car. I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off, and it was a challenge. Im sure there is a better tool for the job, but I didn't have it...
#44
06-02-2018, 03:38 PM
Same problem
Im having the same problem. When car is stopped it revs to 20 mph now battery light is on i tried changing out the alernator twice with used ones thats when the battery light started coming on do i left my old one back on thats when my battery light comes on now and never did before im thinking maby the used alternators drained my battery now im wondering if i have to just buy a new alternator? Im scared because the other alternaters are no money back and i paid a macanic i hope this problem will be fixed soon its a headache
#45
06-13-2018, 09:57 PM
Fixed my 03 town and country
I was doing the same thing trying to troubleshoot what was wrong gave me the 0 700 code and and the output sensor Code 0720. I replace the output sensor and it fixed my shift problem but it kept trying to Lurch forward when in Drive and reverse. And the speedo was going up and down between 0 and 25 when in drive or reverse, Took To oreillys had the alternator tested, alternator tested bad ,replaced the alternator, and it fixed the speedometer all the codes and all the issues. Its driving perfectly. Thanks for the info , you saved me a lot of money.
#46
06-14-2018, 03:19 PM
Im having the same problem. When car is stopped it revs to 20 mph now battery light is on i tried changing out the alernator twice with used ones thats when the battery light started coming on do i left my old one back on thats when my battery light comes on now and never did before im thinking maby the used alternators drained my battery now im wondering if i have to just buy a new alternator? Im scared because the other alternaters are no money back and i paid a macanic i hope this problem will be fixed soon its a headache
#47
08-12-2018, 11:12 PM
Thank you to the OP TravisAz!!!
My Disco Club Dashboard!!
Just posting this to share incase someone else has the same problem.
Symptoms: Speedo reads +mph when sitting in drive, reverse with foot on the brake - usually showed between 10 and 25mph on the speedometer. Car 'clunked' when shifting into reverse and would feel like it was pulling hard against the brakes with an elevated idle.
Took it to AAMCO, and they replaced an output speed sensor (~150$). 4mo later, same thing, and I take it back. This time they say the code isn't there, and they can't reproduce the problem, but there is the generic transmission code P0700, and it is clunking into gear, and the fluid smells funny, etc, and they try to put the hard sell on me to pull the trans and take a look (700$ to take a look). I told them no thanks.
Brought the car home, bought a code scanner (been needing one anyway), and sure enough, code P0720, output speed sensor. Bought one at autozone for 16$, replaced it myself.
Several weeks later, same condition. Dropped the trans pan and changed the filter/fluid because there was some metal dust on the magentic tip of the speed sensor. No dice.
After messing with the car for a while, I realized it would only do this right at startup, and then the condition would go away, until I turned on the air conditioner (summer in phoenix so this is always on may-oct) or the headlights.
Had my charging system checked, and they got a "Excess Diode Ripple" condiiton on my alternator. Picked one up from the local auto recyclers for 40$, and now the car is running great again with no p0700 or p0720. It turns out that when a diode in your alternator goes out, it can create basically EMI that can freak out various sensors in the car.
So much for the shot transmission and 700$ to take a look. If I would have let them do that they obviously would have rebuilt it costing me thousands, and I would still have the same problem. Lol AAMCO, and yes, they will be hearing about this.
Also, one note, when the condition would happen, it would throw codes p0700 and p0720. Once these codes were thrown the trans would shift bad, harsh from park into reverse. Pretty sure the car got stuck in limp-home mode once, but all of this would go away when I used the scanner to reset the CEL.
Anyway, hope this helps someone else and saves them some $$...
Oh yea, one side note, the alternator job is trivial, except for the belt tensioner, which was a total freaking nightmare. Get in there and figure out if you can get a tool on it before you tear the rest of the car apart. I had to use a 3/8in socket driver, but a normal ratchet wrench was too big, so I used one that was just a bar with the 180* swivel, that was the only thing compact enough to get in the tensioner, I then had to use a piece of pipe to get enough leverage, pushing hard with the left hand, holding the tension off of the belt, while getting the belt on 1 handed, and this was from under the car. I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off, and it was a challenge. Im sure there is a better tool for the job, but I didn't have it...
Symptoms: Speedo reads +mph when sitting in drive, reverse with foot on the brake - usually showed between 10 and 25mph on the speedometer. Car 'clunked' when shifting into reverse and would feel like it was pulling hard against the brakes with an elevated idle.
Took it to AAMCO, and they replaced an output speed sensor (~150$). 4mo later, same thing, and I take it back. This time they say the code isn't there, and they can't reproduce the problem, but there is the generic transmission code P0700, and it is clunking into gear, and the fluid smells funny, etc, and they try to put the hard sell on me to pull the trans and take a look (700$ to take a look). I told them no thanks.
Brought the car home, bought a code scanner (been needing one anyway), and sure enough, code P0720, output speed sensor. Bought one at autozone for 16$, replaced it myself.
Several weeks later, same condition. Dropped the trans pan and changed the filter/fluid because there was some metal dust on the magentic tip of the speed sensor. No dice.
After messing with the car for a while, I realized it would only do this right at startup, and then the condition would go away, until I turned on the air conditioner (summer in phoenix so this is always on may-oct) or the headlights.
Had my charging system checked, and they got a "Excess Diode Ripple" condiiton on my alternator. Picked one up from the local auto recyclers for 40$, and now the car is running great again with no p0700 or p0720. It turns out that when a diode in your alternator goes out, it can create basically EMI that can freak out various sensors in the car.
So much for the shot transmission and 700$ to take a look. If I would have let them do that they obviously would have rebuilt it costing me thousands, and I would still have the same problem. Lol AAMCO, and yes, they will be hearing about this.
Also, one note, when the condition would happen, it would throw codes p0700 and p0720. Once these codes were thrown the trans would shift bad, harsh from park into reverse. Pretty sure the car got stuck in limp-home mode once, but all of this would go away when I used the scanner to reset the CEL.
Anyway, hope this helps someone else and saves them some $$...
Oh yea, one side note, the alternator job is trivial, except for the belt tensioner, which was a total freaking nightmare. Get in there and figure out if you can get a tool on it before you tear the rest of the car apart. I had to use a 3/8in socket driver, but a normal ratchet wrench was too big, so I used one that was just a bar with the 180* swivel, that was the only thing compact enough to get in the tensioner, I then had to use a piece of pipe to get enough leverage, pushing hard with the left hand, holding the tension off of the belt, while getting the belt on 1 handed, and this was from under the car. I wasn't sure I would be able to pull it off, and it was a challenge. Im sure there is a better tool for the job, but I didn't have it...
I would just like to also Confirm that changing my Alternator was what fixed my jumpy Speedometer and hard Shifting issue. At times my Dashboard would become a Disco Night Club!! (See attached GIF)
Luckily I purchased a parts Van I could grab required parts from!! It was a perfectly working Van but the body was all beat up. So I took the Alternatir out of it and installed it into my Van and So Far So Good!!!!
I’d never would have thought that my alternator was causing those issues!!! Way to go Chrysler!!
#48
08-27-2018, 01:49 AM
Years have passed but this thread is still helping people.!
I purchased a used 2004 Dodge Stratus today knowing that it had charging issues (got a good deal so took a chance), drove the car home it drove well for a few miles then started to exhibit most of the issues described in this thread, most prominent was the rather loud whining and speedo moving with the tach and trans shifting issues. I read most of this thread then went outside and unplugged the field wires from my alternator and drove the car around a three mile block (I live in Hooterville) and all my issues went away, charged my battery then done it three more times, all my issues magically went away, now I'm 90% sure that when I have the alternator checked it will be faulty and a new one will fix all my issues, so yet another THANK YOU goes out to Travis even though I don't own a Pacifica his advice will most likely fix my car as well. 
#49
08-28-2018, 09:29 AM
I have a 2006 Pacifica 3.5 L with 196,000 miles. It has the same issues as the initial post. Revs up on its own while in park with A/C on, shift to drive with brake pedal depressed and it makes a loud clunk and mph needle moves up to 20mph without moving. I initially took it to the local auto part store for scanning, turns out it indicated the ambient air sensor. Guy there had no idea where it was when I asked. Had to Google that. Cost 30.00 dollars and still is doing the same. After doing extensive internet research, I found that most mechanics and DIYs refer to the alternator. I removed it and had it checked at Autozone. They insist it is functioning well. The alternator itself has a rust color around the clutch area and it makes a humming noise as well. I feel like replacing it but new is around 300 retail. My next move would be to take it to an electrical mechanic for their input. Any comments/recommendations are welcomed. Thank you in advance and no thanks to Autozone....