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I just think it may not be wise to assume none of us know what we are talking about. It wasn’t the ground strap, we replaced that too. It was the ground running between the transmission and the frame. It can be seen after removing the battery tray. We were about to replace the solenoid pack when we found the ground. We were told by my brother, a certified mechanic, and by a different Chrysler mechanic that the issue was electrical - after having changed the motor mounts which DID cause the issue - the motor mounts being bad caused the engine to shift much more than it should which, in turn, caused that ground wire to stretch and at times (especially around sharp curves and up steep hills) loose connection, causing the car to go into limp mode.... we were told to look at the ground first and my husband thought they meant the ground strap. Every time we replaced something we took the car out for a spin to see if it worked. That’s how I know 100%, no shadows of doubt, exactly what fixed my car. I didn’t watch him replace the ground strap and he didn’t know about the ground between the transmission and frame, so, when he said he replaced the ground wire, we all assumed it was the right one. I’m glad, in preparation to replace the solenoid pack, we found the right wire. My husband was angry he spent so much time and money before finding it was such a simple fix. I, on the other hand, was VERY apprehensive about doing ANYTHING to the transmission, so I was relieved we didn’t have to mess with the solenoid pack. I was also very happy to have my car back in proper working order. I had missed driving it terribly. I love this car and will do whatever I need to, to keep it as long as I possibly can. The next project is to get some rust stop and a really good undercoating.
I have same 07 Pacifica 4.0 awd. Same issue. We're is that damb wire. Please help
Originally Posted by Crystal017
I own a 2007 Pacifica Touring, 2wd, 6 speed transmission. When the limp mode issue first happened it would only be when I was turning left after having been stopped. It happened more on damp/rainy days and eventually sterted happening any time I had to take off from a stopped position or stepped on the gas enough to cause the car to down shift into second gear. My car was pulling the same transmission solenid code. However, we could never quite "limp" the car back to the shop while still in limp mode to get a more accurate diagnosis. My mechanic looked into and noticed the transmission/engine mounts were shot and the transmission had been riding on the frame for quite some time causing lots of extra vibration. He changed the motor mounts and the problem went away... for about 10 weeks or so. I could tell the motor mounts were going bad again already and thought that was the issue again. Yes, the motor mounts truly went bad that fast. They did the first time we changed them too. *Do NOT use Anchor motor mounts for this car! The Anchor motor mounts are oil filled but are NOT hydraullic. The car HAS to have hydraullic mounts - stick to Chrysler parts for this, it is more expensive but will save you in the long run! Anyway, long story a bit shorter. My husband, in attempts to save us some money, decided to take on this project and we ened up replacing all sorts of sensors and ground wires and did replace ALL the motor mounts with Chryler parts, still no dice. We decided to replace the transmission soleind and in the process we found 4 wires that were all loose or disconnected. The wires are black and yellow and run inside a sheath that holds them all in place. It runs from the transmission to the frame. The wires had pretty well pulled out of the connector at the frame. The reason it happened was due to the bad motor mounts (engine shifting and extra vibration). Try this first!
It will save you time and hopefully money too!!!
Originally Posted by Crystal017
I just think it may not be wise to assume none of us know what we are talking about. It wasn’t the ground strap, we replaced that too. It was the ground running between the transmission and the frame. It can be seen after removing the battery tray. We were about to replace the solenoid pack when we found the ground. We were told by my brother, a certified mechanic, and by a different Chrysler mechanic that the issue was electrical - after having changed the motor mounts which DID cause the issue - the motor mounts being bad caused the engine to shift much more than it should which, in turn, caused that ground wire to stretch and at times (especially around sharp curves and up steep hills) loose connection, causing the car to go into limp mode.... we were told to look at the ground first and my husband thought they meant the ground strap. Every time we replaced something we took the car out for a spin to see if it worked. That’s how I know 100%, no shadows of doubt, exactly what fixed my car. I didn’t watch him replace the ground strap and he didn’t know about the ground between the transmission and frame, so, when he said he replaced the ground wire, we all assumed it was the right one. I’m glad, in preparation to replace the solenoid pack, we found the right wire. My husband was angry he spent so much time and money before finding it was such a simple fix. I, on the other hand, was VERY apprehensive about doing ANYTHING to the transmission, so I was relieved we didn’t have to mess with the solenoid pack. I was also very happy to have my car back in proper working order. I had missed driving it terribly. I love this car and will do whatever I need to, to keep it as long as I possibly can. The next project is to get some rust stop and a really good undercoating.
I have same car same issue. We're is that wire exactly???? Help please
You’ll need to remove the battery and the battery tray. The wire you’re looking for should be fairly easy to spot from there. It is a thicker black and yellow stripped wire that runs from the transmission to the frame. Mine was pulled loose at the connector that attaches to the frame. We simply reattached the wire(s) nearly to the connector and put a little plastic heat shrink wire wrap over it. It’s been perfect ever since. Best wishes!
Last edited by Crystal017; 08-18-2018 at 01:47 PM.
I own a 2007 Pacifica Touring, 2wd, 6 speed transmission. When the limp mode issue first happened it would only be when I was turning left after having been stopped. It happened more on damp/rainy days and eventually sterted happening any time I had to take off from a stopped position or stepped on the gas enough to cause the car to down shift into second gear. My car was pulling the same transmission solenid code. However, we could never quite "limp" the car back to the shop while still in limp mode to get a more accurate diagnosis. My mechanic looked into and noticed the transmission/engine mounts were shot and the transmission had been riding on the frame for quite some time causing lots of extra vibration. He changed the motor mounts and the problem went away... for about 10 weeks or so. I could tell the motor mounts were going bad again already and thought that was the issue again. Yes, the motor mounts truly went bad that fast. They did the first time we changed them too. *Do NOT use Anchor motor mounts for this car! The Anchor motor mounts are oil filled but are NOT hydraullic. The car HAS to have hydraullic mounts - stick to Chrysler parts for this, it is more expensive but will save you in the long run! Anyway, long story a bit shorter. My husband, in attempts to save us some money, decided to take on this project and we ened up replacing all sorts of sensors and ground wires and did replace ALL the motor mounts with Chryler parts, still no dice. We decided to replace the transmission soleind and in the process we found 4 wires that were all loose or disconnected. The wires are black and yellow and run inside a sheath that holds them all in place. It runs from the transmission to the frame. The wires had pretty well pulled out of the connector at the frame. The reason it happened was due to the bad motor mounts (engine shifting and extra vibration). Try this first!
It will save you time and hopefully money too!!!
Tries to clean main plug for trans .Cuz it was all coroted and green . It didn't do it. The video is a different motor than mine .That was a 3.5 .Mine is the 4.0. been chasing this nightmare for 6 months now. Can't go over 30mph. When it goes into limp .it usually happens as soon as start driving it .the awd light comes on and that's when it does it.. the codes are p0792-po794.but strangely there is no code for limp in mode.. reader says. Incorrect gear ratio in 3rd. And 4th. Changed all sensors on transmission .and still no good.. never changed the alternator tho. And can't figure this out at all for the life of me. Any ideas christal017??
Tries to clean main plug for trans .Cuz it was all coroted and green . It didn't do it. The video is a different motor than mine .That was a 3.5 .Mine is the 4.0. been chasing this nightmare for 6 months now. Can't go over 30mph. When it goes into limp .it usually happens as soon as start driving it .the awd light comes on and that's when it does it.. the codes are p0792-po794.but strangely there is no code for limp in mode.. reader says. Incorrect gear ratio in 3rd. And 4th. Changed all sensors on transmission .and still no good.. never changed the alternator tho. And can't figure this out at all for the life of me. Any ideas christal017??
If I were you, I would take it to a Chrysler dealer and have them test the solenoid pack for proper operation. The 6 speed trannys are known to have solenoid pack issues. There is no code for limp mode. Limp mode is a safety feature that kicks in to keep the transmission from further damage. It's the other issues that cause it to go into limp mode. Take it to a dealer that you trust if you have one. They should be able to test it for you. The solenoid pack itself is not all that expensive and you can probably do the work if you're so inclined to do it. Get the alternator checked for diode ripple before you do anything..It can cause the PCM to throw trans codes and mess with it's operation.
Lots of very interesting reading. With all the wires/connectors to check and clean and check for tightness if you miss one that might have been your problem area. Our '04 Pac had trans trouble and the synthetic oil treatment insurance covered the rebuild. Later had trans problem again, same shop said it wasn't the trans its in the car. Did the same as many of you, tried cleaning wires and inspecting, put on a reputable shop built alternator, still same problem. All this took about 2 years, was easily drivable but not right. Went to a problem solving trans shop, first thought it was a solenoid pack, replaced, still not right. He was able to connect gages to it and monitor pressures. "Said why is it doing that ?" Reinstalled the solenoid pack and changed the trans controller. Experience counts. Drives like new now. Suggest after you check all the small items first then go to a very experienced person and pay them to find the problem. It may not be a large item either. Good luck. *BW*
Lots of very interesting reading. With all the wires/connectors to check and clean and check for tightness if you miss one that might have been your problem area. Our '04 Pac had trans trouble and the synthetic oil treatment insurance covered the rebuild. Later had trans problem again, same shop said it wasn't the trans its in the car. Did the same as many of you, tried cleaning wires and inspecting, put on a reputable shop built alternator, still same problem. All this took about 2 years, was easily drivable but not right. Went to a problem solving trans shop, first thought it was a solenoid pack, replaced, still not right. He was able to connect gages to it and monitor pressures. "Said why is it doing that ?" Reinstalled the solenoid pack and changed the trans controller. Experience counts. Drives like new now. Suggest after you check all the small items first then go to a very experienced person and pay them to find the problem. It may not be a large item either. Good luck. *BW*
Personally I would like to know more about this synthetic oil treatment that covered your rebuild! ATF+4 is synthetic trans fluid which is what is required in these trannys. What is the name of this treatment? How many miles were on the trans when this happened? How many miles on the trans when you put the treatment in? As for your issue did they reinstall the same solenoid pack or was it a different one? Was it installed properly the first time? Probably never know. The part of the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) that controls trans shifting can be reprogrammed to original factory specs by a dealer or trans shop. Is that what they did or was the PCM replaced? As far as I know the trans is controlled by the PCM. I don't know of any other external controller other than the PCM that controls the trans...The PCM "learns" to shift according to your driving style. This can be reset to factory specs by a dealer via a special tool. It takes about 5 minutes. I had mine reset once when my 07 was going into limp mode and they didn't even charge me for it. It helped with the hard shifting, however it did not fix my issue with the solenoid pack which needed to be replaced.
To GR BULLETS et all, https://www.bgprod.com/find-a-shop please go online and input the needed info. Also check out the services they have and the protection it offers with each one that you may be interested in. We have been using some of these services in two 2004 vehicles early on in their life and have only needed to have one repaired at no cost although the Pacifica needed extra work since it was not the transmission. And yes, sometimes the PCM is also called a transmission controller. Tks. *BW*
05-20-2018, 10:24 AM
