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How-To: Change your battery on your 2001 PT Cruiser

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Old 05-16-2021, 04:47 PM
Blasirl's Avatar
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Default How-To: Change your battery on your 2001 PT Cruiser

Overview:
This is my attempt to add to the knowledge base here on the Chrysler forum, especially in the PT Cruiser sub-forum. I needed to install a new battery and it would have been nice to have a few tidbits of information before hand. So here goes.
Changing a battery in a 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser LE

Tools Required:
- Ratchet
- 13mm socket
- 10mm socket
- flat tip screwdriver
- wire brush
- battery post cleaner
-`flux brush or a willingness to get your fingers dirty


Materials Required:
- Paper towel or a rag of some sort
- Dielectric / silicone grease (optional)
- Baking Soda (optional)
- Battery Saver or some other cleaner / protector (Optional)
- Never-seez (optional)



Tools and materials required


Part Required:
Type 26R replacement battery



The battery format for a 2001 PT Cruiser


Procedure:
1. Open the hood and set the hood strut.
2. Unscrew the clamp holding the intake hose to the air cleaner assembly.






3. Undo the three clips holding down the air cleaner cover.




Another Clip


6. Carefully lift and twist the air cleaner cover free of the intake hose and set it aside.



separating the cover from the hose


7. Once the cover is removed, grasp the air cleaner body and firmly pull up until it disengages from the vehicle. You can remove the air filter if you wish, but there is no need to do so.



Cover removed


8. With the air cleaner out of the way you have more than enough room to remove and replace the battery.



Air filter housing remover


9. Using your ratchet and 10mm socket, carefully remove the ground cable from the battery.



10mm socket


Remove the negative terminal clamp


10. Set the negative cable aside and now carefully remove the positive cable. I like to use my other hand to help shield the ratchet from coming in contact with anything to preclude an accidental welding incident.


11. Using the ratchet and the 13mm socket, undo the battery hold down bolt.




This is the hold down bolt


12. Remove the Battery Hold Down.



The Battery Hold Down


13. - Once the hold down has been removed, the battery is free from the vehicle and and can be lifted out.


14. - As a preventative measure, once the battery has been removed, I like to sprinkle some baking soda on the battery tray. It is not as critical in the Cruiser as the tray is plastic, but this has been a habit of mine for some time. Any stray acid gets down there and with a little luck, the baking soda will neutralize it before it does any damage.



Preventative measure


15. Although I did not, I would suggest cleaning both clamps before installing the new battery, but after removing the old battery. If you have an abundance of corrosion on the clamps and a brush is not cutting it, get a Styrofoam cup, some white vinegar and more baking soda. Pour some vinegar into the cup, enough to submerse one of the clamps completely. You may want to put another larger container on the battery tray to contain any overflow from this and set the cup inside it. Now, pour some baking soda into the cup and stir it to remove the clumps. The reaction to this combination, which happens fairly quickly, will clean off most if not all of the corrosion. It can be repeated as many times as you wish, but I would refresh both the vinegar and the baking soda. Once you are complete, using a different cup, rinse the clamp with clear water until all residue is gone. If a little bit of corrosion is still there try a wire brush first before redoing the vinegar / soda combo again.





Clean the Positive clamp

Clean the Negative clamp


16. - Put the new battery in place.


17 - I chose to put some Never-seez on the hold down bolt as it was pretty difficult to remove. However, when I threaded it back in place it felt like it was going into plastic, so I am not sure if this is needed.



Never-seez the hold down bolt


18 - Although the hold down looks slightly different from one side to the other, I do not think it makes a difference which way you put it, so reinstall the hold-down clamp. Just make sure the battery is firmly emplaced over/into the clip at the front of the battery tray and that you push the plastic piece firmly against the battery as you screw the clamp in place(110in-lbs ? )


19 - With the battery firmly held in place, now is the time to clean the posts on the new battery.



Clean the battery posts


20 - Apply a dab of dielectric grease on both posts. I would also apply a thin coat to the inside of both clamps as well. Yes this grease is an insulator. No it will not interfere with the friction fit and subsequent connection to the battery cable. All this will do is fill any imperfections in the connection and keep corrosion at bay.



Dielectric grease


21 - Using the ratchet and 10mm socket, reinstall the positive clamp first and then the negative clamp. (110 in-lbs?)



22- If you have a can of Battery Saver or some other protectant, now is the time to coat the clamp terminals, posts and ant exposed wire.



Battery Saver spray


23. - Reinstall the lower portion of the air cleaner housing, ensuring it is seated completely. This may take a few tries.


24. - Make the air filter is clean and installed properly.


25. - Replace the housing cover by first attaching the hose and then putting it in place. Now Tighten the hose clamp. Then reclip all three housing clips. I found that using the screw driver as a lever helped tremendously in reclipping the drivers side clip near the hood.



A difficult clip


26. - Look for any missing tools and materials and then close the hood and take it for a test run.

Now pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

I know this is a fairly simple thing to do, but I hope this was helpful to someone.

Robert
Any questions?
 

Last edited by Blasirl; 07-28-2021 at 05:56 AM. Reason: Formatting, Typo's
  #2  
Old 07-27-2021, 08:42 PM
JP3's Avatar
JP3
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Saw 1 typo in "Tools Required" showing 18mm socket, but it's 13mm, which you typed right later in the write-up.

I tend to do the air box removal a little different (all in one piece, undoing at the throttle body, and removing the air temp sensor). My way is quicker, but could cause problems if you're not careful. Your way is longer, but limits possible problems caused by user error and goes back together a little easier in pieces. I'm not sure one's right or wrong and I guess it depends more on who's doing the work.

You included every "best practice" and "highly suggested" step possible, and even one I've never used before but may start (baking soda trick). Nicely done! With pictures too!
 
  #3  
Old 07-28-2021, 05:55 AM
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Thanks for finding that. I reread most of the post and also found and fixed an error in the clamp cleaning step as well.
 
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