02 TC abs ?
#1
02 TC abs ?
Gotta ? about how to discontinue the abs, I keep getting a spongy peddle, bled these brakes about 6 times, 1st with a partner, lasted a week, 2nd, with a hand vac, lasted a week, had it to a shop twice, lasted a week either time, got me one of those pressure set ups, lasted 2 weeks this time, but they are out again, only this time my abs light is on.
It has a brand new mc, all new pads, fluid flush, if I push the peddle all the way down, the van does stop, and does get some pressure while pumping the brake peddle. I just need to turn off the abs long enough, until I can get it to a shop in a few weeks.
I've tried pulling the abs fuse, like they say to do online, but all it does is click when I try to start the motor, wont turn over, but starts right up after the abs fuse is reinstalled, I just don't get why pulling the abs fuse doesn't work on this car, what am I missing. Please advise
It has a brand new mc, all new pads, fluid flush, if I push the peddle all the way down, the van does stop, and does get some pressure while pumping the brake peddle. I just need to turn off the abs long enough, until I can get it to a shop in a few weeks.
I've tried pulling the abs fuse, like they say to do online, but all it does is click when I try to start the motor, wont turn over, but starts right up after the abs fuse is reinstalled, I just don't get why pulling the abs fuse doesn't work on this car, what am I missing. Please advise
#2
Are you loosing fluid during these stretches of having a good pedal? I have had 3 of these vans with ABS over the years in the generation of yours and have never had symptoms you describe. What is the mileage on yours and a geographic area it lives in(NE rustbelt?). If the ABS light is on, a good quality code scanner can retrieve ABS codes and give you some help. Even a trip to an Autozone should be able to read your ABS codes.
EDIT: I have ALWAYS used a helper to press(and hold) the brake pedal while I would open (close) a wheels bleeder(one wheel at a time)until no air came out. Starting with the LF then RR then RF then LR, ALWAYS making sure the brake res did NOT get low and suck air. And if ever changing a MC...BENCH BLEED it FIRST before install.
EDIT: I have ALWAYS used a helper to press(and hold) the brake pedal while I would open (close) a wheels bleeder(one wheel at a time)until no air came out. Starting with the LF then RR then RF then LR, ALWAYS making sure the brake res did NOT get low and suck air. And if ever changing a MC...BENCH BLEED it FIRST before install.
Last edited by REBEL59; 01-29-2018 at 06:01 AM.
#3
Thanks for the response, no, it doesn't seem to loose any fluid, infact, the res, is still up to the full mark, got the TC about a year ago, no problems up until recently, pedal likes to drop to the floor, wife drove the van around a few weeks like that, but after getting bled, we get a rock hard pedal for a week or two, no abs light until now, but it would be nice if the stupid abs unit wasn't buried, some people tell about a broken wire, cant get my big hands under the battery tray anyway.
But one thing I did notice, while pressuring up my new Motive pressure bleeder, when I did the required pressure test, it would bleed off slightly, but couldn't hear any air anywhere. I'm just curious if a bad wheel sensor might cause the abs to go spongy?
But one thing I did notice, while pressuring up my new Motive pressure bleeder, when I did the required pressure test, it would bleed off slightly, but couldn't hear any air anywhere. I'm just curious if a bad wheel sensor might cause the abs to go spongy?
Last edited by streetmaster; 01-29-2018 at 12:18 PM.
#4
From my experience, that is NOT likely your trouble source. The way the rear brake lines are run, I have seen them trap air even though an initial bleed showed good fluid flow. And remember it is a DIAGONAL system. Get the ABS codes read , they are pretty specific of actual fault, then you will have a better idea of what to look for!
Last week my ABS light came on(04 T&C) and code read for RF sensor..sure enough RF sensor had roughed up from rusted tone ring on the CV Joint. Cleaned tone ring and replaced sensor and light went out and ABS/trac.control work as it should.
Last week my ABS light came on(04 T&C) and code read for RF sensor..sure enough RF sensor had roughed up from rusted tone ring on the CV Joint. Cleaned tone ring and replaced sensor and light went out and ABS/trac.control work as it should.
#5
From my experience, that is NOT likely your trouble source. The way the rear brake lines are run, I have seen them trap air even though an initial bleed showed good fluid flow. And remember it is a DIAGONAL system. Get the ABS codes read , they are pretty specific of actual fault, then you will have a better idea of what to look for!
Last week my ABS light came on(04 T&C) and code read for RF sensor..sure enough RF sensor had roughed up from rusted tone ring on the CV Joint. Cleaned tone ring and replaced sensor and light went out and ABS/trac.control work as it should.
Last week my ABS light came on(04 T&C) and code read for RF sensor..sure enough RF sensor had roughed up from rusted tone ring on the CV Joint. Cleaned tone ring and replaced sensor and light went out and ABS/trac.control work as it should.
#6
Absolutely NOT a spongy pedal...Totally NORMAL power brake action, ABS/traction control was shut down and reverted to normal braking with the ABS light illuminated.
When you retracted the caliper pistons to install new pads,Are you SURE that you did NOT crack one(or more) of the phenolic composition pistons? may not loose much fluid, but could allow air into the hydraulic system.
When you retracted the caliper pistons to install new pads,Are you SURE that you did NOT crack one(or more) of the phenolic composition pistons? may not loose much fluid, but could allow air into the hydraulic system.
Last edited by REBEL59; 01-29-2018 at 05:54 PM.
#7
Absolutely NOT a spongy pedal...Totally NORMAL power brake action, ABS/traction control was shut down and reverted to normal braking with the ABS light illuminated.
When you retracted the caliper pistons to install new pads,Are you SURE that you did NOT crack one(or more) of the phenolic composition pistons? may not loose much fluid, but could allow air into the hydraulic system.
When you retracted the caliper pistons to install new pads,Are you SURE that you did NOT crack one(or more) of the phenolic composition pistons? may not loose much fluid, but could allow air into the hydraulic system.
#8
Where are you located...Even our local Autozone stores can read ABS codes for FREE.
Yes I do happen to have an open market live data reading scanner(about $300.) that can read trans/obd11/and ABS codes, about the only things it can't read are air bag and body control modules of say 08 and newer. And it works n every car I need(not just MOPARS).
Yes I do happen to have an open market live data reading scanner(about $300.) that can read trans/obd11/and ABS codes, about the only things it can't read are air bag and body control modules of say 08 and newer. And it works n every car I need(not just MOPARS).
#9
Where are you located...Even our local Autozone stores can read ABS codes for FREE.
Yes I do happen to have an open market live data reading scanner(about $300.) that can read trans/obd11/and ABS codes, about the only things it can't read are air bag and body control modules of say 08 and newer. And it works n every car I need(not just MOPARS).
Yes I do happen to have an open market live data reading scanner(about $300.) that can read trans/obd11/and ABS codes, about the only things it can't read are air bag and body control modules of say 08 and newer. And it works n every car I need(not just MOPARS).
I guess my next ? is, if I replace the abs module, will It need programmed, or just stick it on? = that scanner you have, which one is it? thanks
#10
I guess that I can no longer be of any help for you. You seem to be stuck on the thought that ABS is primary system, it is NOT. It is a "piggyback" system. if ABS fails it just stays as primary power hydraulic brakes. My estimation of things posted is you have a hydraulic system problem and ABS is secondary. Good luck to you in your quest to find and fix your concern!