Hi All on Chrysler Forum,

If you aren't too rocked by the news that Harry and Megan are leaving the Royal family behind - perhaps you can help me with my Grand Voyager which is currently stuck in my local garage in Dundee Scotland!

The issue arose just before New Years Eve - following a nice family lunch out, we all got back in the GV and when I turned the key the engine turned over - and sounded like it would start - but just didn't catch. Tried a few times and same thing. Called the Breakdown recovery service and the breakdown man tried to start it with Quick Start spray, which did not work. He noticed smoke coming from the pipe going in to the EGR valve after repeated attempts to start the car. Having failed to get me going, the breakdown man put the GV on the back of his truck and took it to my local garage, where it has been ever since. The local garage has done full electrical diagnostic checks and checked that fuel was being supplied ok. As this turned up nothing, the conclusion was that the timing belt may have slipped. The timing belt was subsequently removed - it did look very old - car has done 145k miles and mechanic suspects it could be the original belt. So new timing belt and tensioner kit installed - timing checked with timing marks BUT the car still won't start. On Monday morning the mechanic wants to re-check the timing and particularly the fuel pump timing as he isn't sure he set it correctly on Friday afternoon. But apart from that I think he is struggling to understand why he can't get it started.

Does anyone have any useful suggestions that I could pass on to my mechanic?

I really need my GV working again - only had it for a few months and bought it following the birth of our fourth child!

Many thanks!

 

I'm old school free/DIY/cheap - to complex/skilled/expensive.

I'd have gone LP fuel delivery/trigger wire-solenoid/BCM/battery low.

Trigger [control wire IGN/TIPM (fusebox) /Body Control Module.

-5 fingers spanner, wiggle the trigger wire on top of the solenoid, which is on top of the starter motor, does it start now ?

NOTE. When you turn key in PARK to start position with your foot on the footbrake it sends a signal-permission to ALLOW voltage via BCM via IPM to thick cable on starter motor.

 

Hi QinteQ

Thanks for taking the time to reply to my post.

I'll pass on to my mechanic to try it.

Simon

 

On trying for start are you getting a click from the relay.

 

Not sure - car is with my mechanic. Last time I looked at it - following timing belt change - on turning ignition key it still sounded like it was trying to turn over. Sorry, not a very useful answer.

 

Hi. I had a similar issue with a 2005 voyager. Had timing belt changed and then wouldn't start. Wouldn't even start on easy start either. Turned out there was a broken rocker arm. Was only very slightly fractured but once change ran perfect.

 

Had a timing belt snap on me a while back, so bought the correct locking kit. Got a good local guy to do the work, and he said it was a great help (had the pump locking pin as well).
Here's one here, others available for £20.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrysler-...AAAOSwcYVd3jJR


With my belt going, there were 8 new rockers needed, so I'd think a slipped belt could cause a little damage as well.

If they're going into the engine for a look, I suspect they would need a proper Chrysler 2.5/2.8 CRD injector removal tool. If needed, I could post you mines. This is the correct Miller tools one made for Chrysler.
The correct injector puller for an LDV 2.8 would probably do the job as well.

 

Many thanks for replies and information.

Unfortunately, my mechanic is saying that the valves are bent and it isn't worth repairing them. As I already have a reasonable sized bill for the work he did replacing the belt etc I am in no position to keep going with it or question it. I suspect it could just be rockers as I've read elsewhere that they usually go before the valves get damaged, however, as I say I don't know enough about it and don't have the money to pursue the repairs any further.

So sadly looks like the car is bound for the scrappy!

Thanks again to those that replied.
Simon

 

Don't give up quite jet! I had a similar problem after rocker renewal. My car would not start even thoug it cranked. I just couln't find the problem. I checked it was getting fuel to the rail. I didn't find electrical issue. I assumed the timing was right after a new belt and everything (btw the high pressure pump doesn't need to be on the mark even though there is one!) Finally i removed the injectors, no big deal after some twisting. Thought they might be clocgged so I opened the nozzles and soaked them in acetone/atf oil mixture. After reinstalling the injectors the car didn,t even crank.
Only now I was really thinking there is something wrong with the timing. To have access to the flywheel to need check the holes you need to take out the starter motor, so I Did. No problem there.... After putting the starter back my car didn't even crank... So taking it off the starter once more and opening it I found that one of the copper wirings to a coil hadtotally snapped. The wery same day I installed a new starter and the car started better and quicker than ever before. The thing might be, your engine doesn't get the permission to start hence too low rpm from the starter motor! And you can't really here the difference! What's more, I really do think in case some valves would have been bent and especcially rockers damaged, you would hear that when cranking the motor. It is possible in case of belt slipping to have these damages but very, very often you only get rocker damages. So make sure the starter and starting rpm is is checked.

Sorry for my English and best regards from Finland.

 

Has your mechanic taken the cylinder head off. These cylinder heads are pretty bullet proof and the rockers are designed to relieve any unnecessary pressure on the valves. I have repaired many 2.8crd with snapped belts and have only replace the rockers and the engine runs perfect. Not a massive job to do either. A lot of mechanics diagnose the worst case scenario when in fact it can be fixed for not too bad a cost.