pull the connector off at the resistor and see if u have power on the same green wire at the resistor if yes then install a new resistor and blower motor. The dealer will ask for your vin number and they will get the correct part off your vin. Your charing of the connector is the internal shortage of the resistor. And was this not the first thing that i said to replace ???

 

Hello...Hello,

I got the parts in today and went to work replacing the blower motor and resistor. I am running into issues following the Haynes Manual.

I removed the air actuator, then the screws securing the lower housing to expose the blower motor. Now according to the book, you are supposed to be able to manuever the lower cover around to access and remove the three bolts to the motor. However, the cover does not manuever that well at all. We cannot get to the third screw on the back side of the motor. We tried regular ratchets and even a gooseneck type extension. There is just no workable room. This is my problem beings that I am not usually car smart. I expected this to take about 2 hours but the lower housing cover is being a pain. Can anyone suggest some help? Did we miss a screw somewhere, or a special tool or something? As always, thanks in advance. Joel

 

there is no trik its just a pain u will haft to be creative and figure out the way of getting it out.

 

Hi Tech,

We got creative...for about 8 hours today. We cut a few pieces off the housing and all we got was the rear screw off the blower. That lower housing does not flex against the firewall enough to drop the blower motor out. What type of creativity does a Chrysler mechanic use short of chopping the entire housing off the vehicle? Very frustrated at this point. I'd probably smack Iacoca around if he were here in front of me...

Joel

 

hehe no cutting required just correct tools and calmness =)
I use an 8mm swivle on a 6 in and 3 in evtention 1/4 in ratchet

 

Right, that is what we used (sans swivel) to get the last bolt out from the back. However, the motor is just sitting down in the lower intake housing because with the firewall and wheel well wall, it certainly does not allow the room to manuever the motor out. I can turn the motor all over but cannot get it to give me the room necessary to pull it down and out. Haynes says that the lower housing can be manuevered to allow the motor to come out and the new one to go in. I do not see it at all. We even took the three screws out of the midsection to try and get some flex but nothing budging there at all.

Any ideas would be appreciated. If not for the actuator having to be screwed back in, I would have torn the lower intake cover off the car by now. Thanks, Joel

 

have u taken to accuator off of the lower houding? that will allow it to move and get out of the way

 

Yes, I almost left it on but I saw how it blocked it more. A local mechanic also said that it just has to be flexed but I am having more trouble than ever just pulling the motor free and the anticipation of placing the new one in that area. I am sure that a shop could do this in 30 minutes, but I'd pay the price....

 

well if u were a bit closer i would do it for ya =)

 

SUCCESS!!!!

Finally got the job done. While being creative, forceful and gentle all at the same time, some pieces broke off and we had to glue them back after installing the new motor. Point being...COLD air in the van once more and next winter, we'll have heat. Thanks for all the advice and guidance.

Joel