Greetings Everyone!

Finished racking my brains over the wife's van and cannot find a problem, so I thought I'd stop and ask the folks who pulled me thru the last time...

A couple of two weeks ago, she was on her way home from work and the van starting sputtering. She described it as thinking that she had a flat tire and when I took it out, I could see what she meant. While I had it out the "Check Engine" light came on so I got it home and popped the scan tool on and it says cylinders 2 and 4 are mis-firing. OK, so we gave her new plugs and wires; NO change. The "Check Engine" light was out, still sputtering like she is missing in multiple cylinders.

Now, some of the stuff that my buddy and I checked:

Compression: All Good
Fuel Pressure: All Good
Stethoscope on random injectors: Clicking nicely

We also just finished emptying her tank because she had JUST gotten gas at a station she never went to. So we dumped that and put in a few gallons of hi-test...no change.

Also, still no service messages. My buddy and I took it out on the road and this time with his Amtron plugged in and reading the performance while I drove; everything reading fine.

We get back and we started pulling ignition wires one at a time and starting the van. When 3 and 6 are pulled (individually), the engine fires like it does not even matter whether they are plugged in or not. So we go to test the coil but the book does not have the primary and secondary resistance for the coil on the 2001 so we know what we are looking for.

So my diagnosis so far is the the van sputters badly and sounds like multiple misfires.

Does anyone have the primary and secondary resistance specs on the van.

Van information:
2001 Chrysler Voyager
3.3L Flex Fuel

Also, any direction on next steps are always appreciated.

Joel

 

hey joel ,stupid question,are you sure of the firing order on the coil?

 

Hi Moe,

Thanks for the response. My dad always told me that there are no stupid questions. Having said that, yeah, I questioned that myself, but the coil is (thank you Chrysler) stamped so that eliminated that and also matched the Haynes book.

Joel

 

i think its one of the drivers in the pcm,but might try a coil first.sounds like the misfire keeps changing.also look closely at your wiring harness.battery acid on the harness etc..

 

Moe,

I will add this all to the list for the next group day on the van. But, as I was saying, we want to check the coil but can't find the resistance specs for that year. Do you know what we should be looking for as far as that goes?

Thanks, Joel

 

I still cannot find the resistance specs for this year..did the industry have something against the 2001 (LOL)..seriously though does anyone have the resistance specs for the coilpack? Primary and secondary? I'd be grateful to have them so I can check the pack.

Thanks, Joel

 

SOLVED::

Just wanted to post back and report that this issue has been solved. We never could find resistance numbers for the 2001 and later models so we took a new spark plug and removed each plug wire (individually one at a time) from the plug and connected the spare spark plug to it. Then we disconnected the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked the engine looking for spark. #2 on the Ignition Coil was not firing a spark so we replaced the Ignition Coil ($90) and the van is running like a champ again.

I hope this helps someone in the future.

 

jmichaelc: I have to test your last proccedure and I´ll let you know how it was. My 2000 T&C 2.4 SE has this problem: 1) Engine sometimes working bad at low speed or RPM´s (while driving or not) 2) Start doing like a 3-cyllinder performance, going down till 600 RPM´s. 3) Tested on a (Patagonia Argentina) garaje with no abnormalities in the scan device, fuel pressure (I have changed 3 times de fuel pump module, the last one is a Bosch) and added an extra in-line fuel pump. Already changed the fuel filter,, relays checked, oxygen sensor changed. 4) Several times changed the spark plugs and wires.
Last try is to test the ingnition coil performance.

 

For the record, because only one shorted turn on either primary or secondary of a spark coil will stop it working prontissimo, it's no good trying to measure the dc. resistance. You have to do the test as above, i.e. see if it makes a good spark by intermittently connecting it to a battery, using a capacitor of any valuue between .1mfd. to 1mfd. across your contacts if on the workbench. Of course in the old days of one coil plus a high-voltage distributor, the thing either worked or it didn't. Now with six dedicated coils and no distributor, misfires are likely with a faulty one, but without complete breakdown.

Leedsman.