Wahoo! Got it stared and all the electronics working.
Looking at some suggestions online, I did the following, so not sure which one corrected the issue:
disconnected the negative from the battery for about 2 hours
pulled out and pushed back in each fuse and relay
disconnected the positive and touched the positive and negative together for over a minute
reconnected the positive and negative
opened car door and instruments were on
car started
no codes being thrown.....yet

 

Looks like disconnecting the battery has caused a hard reset -- excellent result.
Time to get the beer out and have a party?
Yes please...

Leedsman.

 

Having the same issues and would like to know more about the hard reset. Is it something a shadetree mechanic is capable of doing? I will give you a bit of history, I installed a aftermarket stereo in my friends Town and country and upon completion the van would crank but not start. Fuel pressure checked OK, thought maybe flooded so I pulled a plug and grounded it on the block. Cranked the motor and it started. Thought the problem resolved so I replaced the plug then again cranked but not firing. Tried multiple more times and still nothing. Basically the same symptoms as eljefe25, instrument cluster blank, ignition on-headlights on, radio and other interior controls on. Just trying to save my but cuz if it costs money to fix, I am gonna have a hard time convincing my buddy it wasn't something I did when I installed the stereo.(I hope it was just coincidence)

 

how about check all teh fuses and unplug the radio

 

Did you disconnect the battery before installing the radio? It sounds like you have somehow killed the data bus.

 

You can def do what I did to see if that works. I am by no means a versed DIY and just found those tips online.

 

I disconnected the battery before installing the radio. All fuses are good. I replaced the EATX safety shut down relay,whatever that is (sounded like it might have something to do with it). Replaced the factory stereo even though it did not work. Disconnected the battery and had a jumper across the cables all night, still blank cluster and no start. Read on another forum about an anti theft mode that engages after five failed starts, any truth to that and if so how do I disable it. If I killed the data bus somehow how do I bring it back to life. Nearest dodge dealer is 40 miles so it is gonna be an expensive tow. If I pulled the BCM and took it in could it be tested or does it have to be checked in the van? Thanks for all the tips and advice, no mater how small it is greatly appreciated.

 

> The EATX or electronic automatic transmission relay is what sends the transmission into 'limp mode" when the TCM detects a fault and cuts the ground to it.
> Anti theft mode. Yes, it's called the engine immobilizer fuction of the security system. It is supposed to recycle after 15 minutes to let you attempt to start again. You can't disable it. The BCM, SKIM and PCM work in concert to make it all happen.
> Revive the bus? Disconnect modules on the bus till something comes alive. That would be the HVAC panel, instrument cluster, RADIO, power door modules,etc. The BCM, TCM, and PCM are on the bus but disconnect any of them and the van won't start anyway.
> Not positive but pretty sure the BCM has to be in the van to test it at a dealership.

Can you get the cluster to do anything on the self test? Hold the cluster ***** in and turn the key to on (not start). It should start a self test cycle within a few seconds.

Would be a huge coincidence but check the wiring and connections on the bottom of the fuse box (IPM). They are known to corrode and break leaving you with combinations of cluster and starting issues. If you see signs of corrosion around the fuses and relays on the IPM it may be worth dismantling it and checking for internal corrosion.

Have you checked the IOD fuse? It's a power source for the data bus.

 

Well guys I figured it out, after returning everything to square one. Apparently some dumb polack who shall remain nameless(it was me).Missed a single white/purple wire from the factory stereo , that was separate from the two main plugs. Well I cut the connector off assuming it would be tied into the new harness somewhere. Well it was not so of course I forgot about it and when I pushed the stereo back in its slot, that cursed wire grounded out on the stereo chassis.
Moved the wire and the van started no problem. After some research I found out this wire was for the steering wheel controls. My only question is why does the engine care what the f*** the radio is doing. But I am sure some person smarter than me already answered that question when he designed the damn thing.
Anyhow just wanted to thank everyone for the help and prompt responses. And I am wondering how my ancestors ever got anything done without this internet thing.

 

That's microprocessors for you -- you just don't know what combination of right and wrong inputs and stored glitches* will make the micro. do. Often it's incomprehensible things that don't seem like sense.
I used to teach my students. -- "There's nothing logical about logic processors when they go wrong"

Leedsman.

*This kind of glitch means the generic one, i.e. a bit that's been altered by a glitch voltage spike, not the colloquial one meaning a random fault.